Serial #: C-1038 A1100SB Just bought it at online auction. Sight unseen. Put a lowball bid in and won. Now comes the work of getting it home. Which I have to get it in two days. If the thing won’t start, how does one get the blade up in the air so I can load it on the trailer lol. Disconnect the blade to the arms that lift it and then just chain it up? Pictures look like the blade could be in the air still. Only paid $715 for it after taxes and auction fees. Even if I can’t get it going I can sell it to someone for parts or for a pull grader project.
Nice find. I'd take loose the arms, and use a com-a long, or binders, to pull the blade the blade up. Were the numbers you gave found on a tag, or cast into iron, somewhere? they don't look like serial #'s to me...
https://www.mcdougallbay.com/bid.php?arg=' {F97BC21D-3FAE-4CD3-AFEC-EAF9FE5127D1}%27#
Link coming up ng...
I have a M-100 C which is later. Also some manuals. PM me If you need help. Parts are getting scarce but a simple tough machine.
Got it home today, took my lowbed and my 973c and ripped it out of the Bush. Owner said he drove and parked it 15-20 years ago in that spot. One flat tire, one tire with a lug missing. Others are weather cracked but hold air. Blades are worn down into the mold board in the crown area. It has an extension on the blade. In cab heater. Recirculating engine heater. All the tires turn, the blade rotated when I put a binder on it and spun the shaft into the gearbox for circle turn. As is, this would be a good parts machine. Lots of good parts on it.
Any possibility that it might run? I posted an old sales brochure on this thread. HeavyEquipmentForums
That’s cool, crazy that this little grader weighs almost 26,000lbs. When people say the roll away blade, aren’t all grader blades build in the last 40 years this design? This video is quite the watch. It’s entertaining “modern technology has to offer” The previous owner said he drove it to where it was parked. So there’s really no reason it shouldn’t run. Although it was parked for 15-20 years. I tried to hook up a booster pack to the battery cables and then turned the ignition and there was no response. Put the booster pack directly to the starter and it just free wheeled. It didn’t engage out into the flywheel. I’m going to need to get the manual for it so I can see which lever is for what, and what pedal is which.
By the serial #, 1966 or perhaps later. Nice find. Battery is likely toast from age, you would to need to find one that is close to the original(s) size, and try jumping it off...
Playing around with it today, ignition doesn’t work the signal wire to the starter must be broken somewhere. But when I put cables directly to the starter and then hit the solenoid with 12v it engages the starter, turns the motor over very slowly, because the solenoid seems to be engaging and disengaging rapidly.
That many years of sitting, and your repeated attempts to start it with a boost pack(low voltage) can booger up the contact plates in the solenoid. Do yourself a favor, and hook a big battery up to it... Don't want to start any fights, just experience talkin, here...
Boost pack attempt lasted about 2 tries. And literally for less then a second each. Second attempt when the starter was engaging and disengaging was with my duramax hooked up to it. For another few seconds.(later found that I had a bad connection on the signal wire to the solenoid) Third attempt was with my duramax and a 7220 John Deere tractor hooked up to it. Both running, and with tractor in an elevated idle. It turned over alright but still slow I feel. The grader wasn’t even chugging any smoke trying to start, no popping or anything. So I took the fuel filters out and they were plugged up, cleaned the bowls up with a wire wheel and solvent and then cleaned with brake clean. Then I drained the tank of all the fuel. Pressurized the tank to force the fuel and impurities out. So now I have to get two new fuel filters, new air filter. See if I can get this thing started. And if I can, then i’ll Try get the tire inflated, and see what works or not before I start thinking about getting into replacing things. One thing I did notice is the levers, some have a return, some don’t. Is there springs in the valve bodies or whatever they’re called that the levers go into, that need to be replaced?
You need to put a set of batteries in it for it to spin like it should. Should also check voltage. Should be stamped in the starter housing somewhere. Could it be 24 volt?
Have you tried moving the levers? if they are froze in position, water might have got in and caused some rust in the valves. I would think that most of the valves on a grader would have a center detent (return to center)... Filters should have bleed valves, above each. from there its bleed the pump, and then each line, at injector. Sometimes it helps to take the old battery out of the loop, if they are dead shorted, they can add a load, to whatever jump battery you are using. I would hook a battery directly to cables via the existing (or new) clamps, and see if the starter spins faster... There may be an issue with the solenoid, or starter could need brushes, also check grounds and wires, on something this old, wires can need replacing and sometimes starters will rust and lose ground. Sounds like this ain't your first rodeo, so keep at it. If the motor ain't locked, it should prolly be start-able, based on the history you have provided, and providing the previous owner didn't lie to ya...
Even with hooking up two other pieces of equipment with two sets of booster cables? I never thought about it being 24v. And you’re right it is 24v.
Well that's one problem down..
Check the oil and antifreeze with 24 volt that will be running in no time.
The only one that is stuck is the circle turn. But it appears someone has hadn’t it open because the nut for retaining the lever is loose. Some have the detent and a couple don’t. I’ll have to wait for someone to chime in that has had similar problems. And resolved it. I’ll wait until I get the new filters in and everything and then i’ll Drag it over to where I can reach it with the pressure washer and spray all this junk off of everything that way I can see what you’re talking about on top. And the reason why I am not mentioning anything about batteries is because there was no batteries in this machine. No Tray. No evidence of anything to see if it was 24v. Only two cables the ground and the power. So i’ll Just take a booster cable between the batteries for now to see how it runs. Motor definitely isn’t locked, it turns over and has compression, makes the exhaust flapper bounce. Previous owner was super happy to talk to me when I was picking it up. I bought it at an online auction. So I had already bought it when I was talking to him, said he ran a wrecking yard, and he tore apart a few dozers and hoes. Kept this grader instead of wrecking it to maintain the trails and push snow. He was excited when I told him I was going to try and get it running. Everything else that was bought was getting scrapped.
Oil has no milk, no haze, and looks like it was changed before it was parked. It’s not even black. Antifreeze was low and I topped it up, I see the rad has a leak now, hence why it was low. No idea what I’m going to do with that.
I reckon you need to get two good batteries in there, connected in series, to have it spinning at a good rate... having it just turning over may not do the job. The levers operate dog clutches and “should” return to centre, but are generally happy enough to be pulled or pushed into neutral and sit there.
I would use a small tank and feed directly into the fuel system with new fuel and pull start it if the tires will take a little air. May still need 24 volt battery power to perhaps power a solenoid and stuff like that if not mechanical shutdown.
The point I am trying to make re the batteries is that good batteries, connected to good cables, short in length, will work better and spin the starter faster than the same batteries, connected to long jumpers, held together with spring loaded jumper cables. You get some voltage drop, going through long cables, and some more drop, through loose connections...
Well, charging the batteries as we speak, new fuel filters, didn’t realize that there is a mechanical fuel pump on the injection pump to force fuel through the second filter. So that took some time. I had to make new gaskets for the top bleed bolt. One never even had a gasket on it. Anyways long story short a little ether, a little weak batteries, and a little turning over got it to pop a few times. Now it’s game on, charge the batteries for a while, get them powered up. And I hope this old girl will stay running.
Sounds encouraging ippield. If you do need to bump start it, I would suggest pushing it rather than towing. If it’s like the B series we had, it will have a hydraulically assisted clutch that is almost impossible to operate without the engine running. Combined with the fact that you don’t know, for sure, if the clutch will work when the motor does start, it might be safer to point it towards a wide open space and give it a push.
With good batteries and connections, it fired right up. And runs very well actually. But the PTO shaft that runs under the cab to the control assembly shakes something fierce. Also, I don’t got any power steering. Where do I check the hydraulic oil??? I need that manual. Also the levers, don’t really have detents, as well the wheel lean has some kick back when I try and ease into it. But when I slam it forward or back it engages.
That sounds familiar....lol The hyd. tank on ours was sort of under the seat with a cap and dipstick just under where the M100 decal is on yours.. can’t remember which side though. How does the clutch feel?
Check the U joints, and the U joint phasing. If the driveline is assembled out of phase (u-joints not lined up), can cause the shaking...
Just remembered....it's on the left hand side.
Thanks I thought that was it but I didn’t know if it had anything to do with the fuel tank so I didn’t want to start dumping oil in it. Lol
I was wondering about phasing. That’s probably the problem. The ujoints looked alright and didn’t have excessive play.
Didn’t feel like most clutches I can tell you that. Lol kinda squishy but worked.
Still in search of a 14.00-24 tire for this grader so I can actually see if the brakes work lol. Maybe put some used blades on it from work. Got some coolant additive to see if it fixed the pin hole in the radiator. Then reseal the covers on the controls in the cab. And weld the cab into one piece again, hard to keep the cab secure when the Lower half on the back is he fuel tank.
Little update, found a used tire for the grader, absolutely couldn’t get the rim to let go of the brake hub, had to drag it around on the flat for it to wiggle lose finally. Only broke one stud on it. Happy about that. Second, I greased all 10,000 grease nipples, used a tube and a half of grease. And last thing I just finished today, put a set of used blades off my grader at work on it, surprisingly all the bolt holes lined up. This old grader only uses 9 bolts per blade though. No big deal.
Blades like these will last my grader for the rest of its life probably. Doing finals at work those blades had a pretty good wave in them and the corners being worn off my supervisor told me to throw a new set on. I was going to try and last the season, but hey, new blades on my grader at work, and very very good blades for an old junky Grader like mine on the farm.
and that kick back you mentioned is why they`re called knucklebusters
That's the way the old Cats have always been. Slam in and out to avoid wear. The more they wear, the more the knucklebuster term holds true.
I would check all them gearboxes for water. After setting for 20 years the ones on my 212 Cat were almost full of condensate. Still can not figure out the ones in front of the windshield could get over a quart of water in each sealed unit.
first one i ever messed with an old 12 taught me a lesson quick
I was just in a rush to do some work on the farm today with it, we are suppose to get over an inch of snow tonight. So it’s going to be wet and squishy for a while, wanted to work on the drainage. This whole week is looking like snow/rain mixture. I have a bunch of work to do on this thing to make sure it’ll last. Springs wore out for the circle turn. So that out really kicks back. My hands are kinda sore after playing for 5 hours with it today. And I’m super impressed with fuel consumption.
if you find any more for that price let me know
I have $750 into buying the grader itself. $630 into a tire/tube/liner. $50 into three sets of fuel filters. $20 in grease lol $0 used blades and used bolts. Total $1,450 Have to buy a bunch of skate u joints for all these shafts lol had to rob one off of the wheel lean so I could put it on my circle turn shaft. I don’t need wheel lean I do need circle turn though.
Wheel lean is only necessary, when you're in heavy traffic, and some sumbiotch tries to pass you. Lean left, and his doorhandles and any plastic trim disappears...
Lol If only one could do that. I do have a question for you guys, my circle rotate lever, there’s no return springs, so it bounces back and chatters against the gears.tips to fix it? Been snowing past three days now, and very windy. I don’t want to go mess around and make huge ruts in the yard. Just want an idea before I open it up.
Put some burnt oil or diesel fuel on that circle. It’ll help. She sounds good.
Didn’t want to attract dirt to it, I took a wire wheel and buffed all the surface rust off of it that I could get to. Should probably do the underside now too. My machine HAD the hydraulic slide on the moldboard, but the cylinder is gone, hydraulic hoses gone, lever is gone. But I see someone welded on bolts to the end of the moldboard slide to limit it. Tried to take a tractor and push on the blade to get it to move but she’s rusted solid.
go find a quart of slipeze or ezee slide and a paint brush sold by tractor supply
Another product that works pretty good is Fluid Film...
Long time no post, been away recovering from back surgery. Decided to touch the old grader today now that spring is upon us. I never had any batteries for my grader and I was too cheap to buy any so I would always get someone to pull start me. That was getting old, last fall we changed the batteries on my dads semi, and left them on a pallet. I decided to test them out with my load tester and two had over 12 volts still, and two were around 10-11. So I decided to try and save these batteries. The batteries that were low on voltage were also low on water. So I filled it up with more water and gave it a hot charge 60amps for an hour on each battery, then left them to rest overnight. This morning I went out and checked the voltage, the lowest battery was at 12.2 volts, the best was at 12.7 volts. Decided to give it a gamble and see if these batteries will be good enough for my grader. Made steel bars to connect the battery terminals because they had threaded 3/8 studs. Connected all 4 in series, and man oh man did it turn over fast. I didn’t know that starter had it in it anymore. So stupid me forgot to turn the fuel on, so there I was trying to start it without the fuel on. Wasting the battery power like an idiot. once I realized why it wasn’t firing I gave it a shot of ether, and then it fired right up and ran surprisingly well for literally having zero maintenance done on it for the last 25 years sitting in the bush except for a few sets of fuel filters and fresh fuel. But now I have a few questions. 1. is this grader 24v positive ground, or a normal negative ground? (I didn’t even think about it when I was doing it so I have it set up as negative ground, and it fires up, but the volt meter stays at 0. Also the one work light is lit up with the switch) 2. After starting the machine and playing on the driveway to maintain it like it so badly needed. I turned it off infront of the shop and wanted to see how well the batteries would start it again. And it would turn over, but it wouldn’t fire again. I put a little ether in it and it fires right up. Im unsure why it won’t dump fuel into it. 3. the throttle lever when pushed all the way forward, is at a higher rpm then if it is pulled back about 1”. 4. Where and how does one test the generator? There is two wires coming off of the generator, one a larger gauge then the other, and they both feed into a black box that is on the firewall mounted to rubber mounts, and then go under the cab on the electronic side. 5. The power steering is very strong arm turning left from straight, meanwhile turning right it is powered. 6. Is the diff always locked? Or is there a way to unlock it? It makes it difficult to turn around with all 4 tires spinning together. 7. what’s the pedal directly in the middle of the floor used for? Mine isn’t connected to anything. Flops forward to backward with no resistance.
8. I have no brakes on my machine, i haven’t checked the reservoir on the foot pedal, but the bellow for the shaft is ripped and oily, so I have a leak there, but unsure if it’s the hydraulic or the brake fluid itself. Can I use my pneumatic brake bleeder?
Welcome back ippielb. I might be able to answer a few of your questions. It definitely should be negative ground. Are you sure it is spinning fast enough? How well was it starting when you were pull starting it? The pedal in the centre of the floor is a foot throttle so we rarely used the hand throttle. The diff can’t be unlocked, unfortunately. When we needed to bleed the brakes I would hold an air duster gun to the tiny breather hole on the cap of the brake fluid reservoir, pressurising the system a little.
Okay, negative ground is left as it is. first time I started the engine it was definitely fast enough, now the batteries a little drained, I’m not 100% positive it is fast enough. While pull starting it would take a little bit to get the engine to turn and eventually fire up. Hard to tell when exactly it started because there’s not much difference in sound engine turning vs firing it’s so loud everything shakes and rattles if I’m being honest. I guess the throttle pedal is not hooked up, there’s quite a few hydraulic leaks under the floor of the cab I’ll take the floor panel off and take a look and see what I can find that’s messed up. I popped the top of the brake reservoir, and just like I thought bone dry. And I little too bone dry. The brake fluid must’ve attracted moisture and there is a decent amount of rust on the inside so I popped the master off. I’ll put some nuts inside it and shake it upside down to break free as much as I can of that rusty film. And then take it apart and throw the master into my ultrasonic cleaner to see if I can save it. Water and some redneck ingenuity is free, vs a new master.
Did a little more work, got the floor panel off to try and diagnose the shaft vibration. The shaft that runs from the belt driven gear box off the engine. To the controls and the hydraulics under your left foot. There is a steady bearing between the two shafts with splined ends. Well those splined ends are worn a decent bit, and the yoke splined holes are absolutely egged right out. surprisingly the U joints are good. The yoke on the belt driven gear box seems to be held on with a roll pin. But for the life of me I cannot get that roll pin out. I was mushrooming the pin inside it.
Yeah, been there done that. I could here it rattling away in your video. I remember being terrified that something would let go and come up through the floor. I forget what we we replaced and although it didn’t ever let us down, it never looked or sounded pretty. Foot throttle is worth fixing. Can set speed with hand throttle and rock the pedal forward to decelerate, or just use it as an accelerator. If a brake wheel cylinder is leaking you will have to make up a puller to pop the hub off the axle. No big deal and parts are readily available but a temporary fix would be to plug off the line to the offending wheel...brakes on two or three wheels will pull it up just fine.
did you say you connected all 4 batteries in series? that would give you 48volts. at that voltage you likely burned out the voltage regulator if it was a 24v
also, the generator will likely need to be polarized any time the batteries are disconnected if it will not charge
I fixed a badly worn splined shaft problem on a 5' tiller about 8 years ago using a product called Devcon Titanium Putty. Here's a thread about it. Several other products were mentioned through out the discussion. HeavyEquipmentForums
The sound you hear in the video is one of the levers bouncing back and forth, there is no spring load on that one so it bounces, i usually just set it, tighten up the nut. I've only used this grader for maybe a couple hours, just to try and figure out whats wrong with it. The foot throttle was actually just disconnected under the floor boards. The shaft is there and the bolt and nut are still in there. I will have to clean out the master completely before i try fill it with fluid and get an idea where it leaks the brake fluid out. If it needs a cylinder i will just plug it off, this wont be getting any use off the farm. I did not hook up all 4 of the batteries in a single series. I hooked up the batteries in series to make 24v with two banks. I am not familiar with polarizing a generator, i'll have to google that. There wont be any fixing of these yokes, they are EXTREMELY egged out, with a new yoke i should be able to save the steady bearing and the yoke together. I did find one spot that i didnt like, the coupler between the engine and the transmission. The transmission side is splined, and it is wobbly as well, the engine side is good. I'm guessing all these issues are caused by u-joints going bad and dragging, causing a little bit of movement and over time it increases the wear, and increases the movement. I'll get some pictures.
Well, did some more work. Changed the fuel filters. The tank is really bad. You can see the sediment level on the old fuel filters. I am thinking about making a deep sediment bowl to catch all that, and then have a ball valve at the bottom to keep trying to drain it out before the filters itself. second picture is the splines on the steady bearing. You can see how they’ve worn. Third picture is of the yoke on the front shaft and how it’s worn an oblong hole letting it absolutely shake everything to death. last picture is an access hole in the side that the steady bearing was bolted behind. Got quite a puddle in the frame rail. Was debating on drilling a hole at the back and front to let water drain out.
First picture is of the generator I have in my machine. It’s nicely marked for my first time understanding the two posts. second is the floor board off. Everything is caked with heavy oil residue over years and years. On the gearbox itself for the hydraulic pump there’s a fitting that broke off that looked like a. Breather. Gotta try and easy out to get the broken off section removed. last two pictures are of the rear shaft on the engine mounted belt driven gear box. It will not come off that shaft. I can’t really swing a hammer worth a crap so I’ve gotten help with lifting things and using the swing press. I also changed the engine oil in it. First oil change in over 22 years. There was some sludge. But not that bad, I let it drain overnight to try get everything out that I could. Then put fresh oil in, but can’t start it to check for leaks.
I may be wrong, here, but it looks like the front end of the shaft has a roll pin or set screw holding it on. Does the shaft telescope? If so, you may be able to take some of the slop out by welding on a new female shaft, to the shaft, but cut a slot, lengthwise, down the new female shaft section, and weld a nut, on one side of the cut, and a bushing, on the other side, add a bolt, to the other side, and clamp the repaired shaft, to the existing(worn) male shaft...
is that the same spline size as a 540pto ag tractor? if it is, you can have a machine shop cut off your old splines and weld the new coupling (or male spline) in place of your worn-out. i've used that trick over the years with satisfactory results
If you look in the picture where I show the floor board off, the shaft is sitting there. It is a solid shaft, the only sliding action is on the steady bearing splines. I was hoping to try and find a new splined yoke and then try out that titanium putty or similar product. I’m unsure, I will end of popping off that yoke with the female splined end and taking it to John Deere with the steady bearing. See if they can help me find an ag yoke that I can replace it with. The bearings in the steady bearing are still okay, it’s just the shaft that is worn a bit. But looking at the posts about that titanium putty and others I think I’ll try find a new yoke. Cover that shaft with the putty and try get it to form to the new yoke dimensions
Those splines only have about half the wear the ones on my tiller had. If you do end up using it, things have to be really clean. Also, I doubt if I can ever get mine apart again which is fine since it doesn't get much use.
I was going to try and get a new yoke. And put the putty on the splines of the shaft instead. And when i put the yoke onto the shaft i would lightly coat the yoke with oil so that the putty wont be able to stick to it. and still be able to slide. I cant permanently mount the yoke to the shaft i'll never be able to change the u joints if i do. I mean i could but it would be a royal pain in the arse.
Sounds like a plan. I'm not sure about the oil, but some kind of release agent is a good idea.
I actually just thought of something else. That I can do right now without needing any type of additional product. Since my yokes are garbage anyways. I was thinking about cutting two slits into the yoke and then putting on a type of clamp around it to really grab the shaft, that way there won’t be any movement. And if I need to take it off I can loosen the bolts and slide it right off. It’s free with the spare bolts and scrap I have here, and I don’t need to order anything in. Then I can finish it sooner.
That's kinda what I was suggesting, but those are some honkin thick yokes there. Since most of the wear seems to be on the female half, I'd replace that, and do the single cut method, but that's just me... This may be of use... https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power...-3-8-6T-Splined-Coupling-167-02206-1-1562.axd
you are completely right. I actually read it as cutting the shaft for some reason. I just read telescoping. Should’ve read it more thorough. That is a great idea. is that the actual size and everything I’d need? I should see if my local John Deere has anything like that in stock.
If that is a 1-3/8 X 6 spline ag type shaft, it should fit. Its 2" O.D., IIRR...
I have another question. Both my hydroboost units are leaking. The one for the hydraulic brakes is leaking mainly at the input shaft. And the hydraulic clutch is dumping out as well. is there still rebuild kits going around?
I would take the unit off, and take it to an old man behind the parts counter at old, brick and mortar auto parts store... Oh, and another idea, take this question over to the construction machinery section, of the unofficial Allis web page, there might be some guys, there who have some experience in this very problem...HTH! https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/construction-and-other-equipment_forum3.html
You know it's someone that has been around, when they pull an actual book out from under the counter.
If the boosters are still working ok and not leaking an unbearable amount of oil, I think I would let sleeping dogs lie and not disturb them until you were able to secure a seal kit.
Another update, sucked it up, bought two new yokes. 1-1/8” shaft, 6 coarse spline, 1200 series PTO shaft yoke. They were $66 a piece plus tax. The new ones had holes on either side for a roll pin to go through so I tapped them, and put in bolts, with a jam but to really secure them on the splines. Worked very well actually, those two new yokes don’t wobble at all, but the front yoke right at the gearbox for the controls, wobbles a lot still. Never even thought to get a new yoke for the front. I should get a new yoke for it as well. rad cap was not sealing in the least, so I put on a new one, and oh my lanta did I figure out how much my rad leaks when under pressure. I really don’t feel like repairing all the leaks, so I dumped a thing of rad stop leak into it. See how it works out, if it helps at all. Engine still won’t fire without ether down the throat turning over, my batteries aren’t strong enough to keep it turning at the fully charged battery state. Also tried to get the generator phased and I couldn’t figure it out. From my memory of taking the field wire off the generator and then sparking it from the positive battery post a couple times did make a decent spark, but when I stuck my volt meter on it to see if it was charging I had no voltage coming from the field post. Or the other one. grader has fresh oil, fresh fuel filters, topped up coolant with rad stop leak, new yokes and U joints on the pto shafts. I took it out for a little work on the drive way again, last time I did it I left washboards in it. I wanted to improve it. So made a few passes. Second time playing in the grader since my surgery.
Ever consider putting an alternator on it. I know a lot of guys ditch the generator for alternators on their old farm tractors. Are you standing up, or are you that tall? I used to stand up in an old Austen Westen, but a few trips into the windshield got me sitting down.
I’m 6’3 and I’m standing up operating. Habit of watching the blade, but standing up makes it hard because my legs auto correct for balance when I’m use to sitting on my butt and letting my ears tell me I’m leaning. I was hoping to figure out this generator, trying to keep this a low budget as I can. Since I’m still not into the grader for $2,000 yet. Plus the grader is still 24v. I also have a new master cylinder coming for the brakes, old one was dry as a fart and full of rust, didn’t want to chase my tail with that one.
Well, took the grader out into the hay field to level off gopher mounds. Was into it for probably 30 minutes when the upper rad hose came apart. The previous owner did some Jerry rigging. Literally a 2-1/4”” ID hose over a 2-1/4” OD hose, and a hose clamp with some silicone. No reinforcing piped, literally hose to hose. So I got a couple pieces of pipe, made an adapter with two different sized pipes and welded a lip around the outer edges, put it back on and it worked great. No leaks, until the one hose finally got up to pressure warming up and then it split down the side. That was a pain, the hose is so old it doesn’t even have nylon reinforcing weave in the hose. So literally it ripped with almost no effort. Going to get a new one tomorrow, and hopefully I can finish that field.
Someone recently sent me this old photo of an M100 punching above it's weight. It would be a toss up as to which had the most horsepower, the grader or the Leyland Comet...slow trip either way. The gear belonged to our local council in the late 60s.
Those tires look pretty good haha my drive tires are not great. One is missing a lug, one is backwards. Steer tires are bald as can be. I was quickly grading the yard today, and the circle turn has gotten jammed up. The shafts rotate up to the transfer case gearbox. But jam after 1/2 rotation, with the output not moving at all. happened when I was rotating with a blade full of material. Let me tell you the 20 minutes I did in that grader felt like hours haha I’m spoiled rotten with the new iron I get to run at work. Much respect to those who use to run these full time.
Weird question, I want to take my power steering gearbox off the front of my grader. Is the shaft that runs down to the pitman arm part of the gear box? Or can I take the plate off on the top of the gearbox, detach the shaft, and then remove the gear box? I don’t want any oil mess. I had some honey bees decide to make a hive in the front frame of my grader they are climbing up through by the steering shaft. I want to save the bees without covering them in oil so I can put them with my other bees.
well, lucky me, found a parts catalog. Looks like I can take it apart at the top. But definitely would be easier to just try and wrench that big nut off the bottom that way I can get that shaft out giving me room to try and work in there. Going to try and vacuum up all the bees. Just gotta get the queen and the rest will follow.
Well that sucks, ripped off that steering box, sure enough it’s a tube all the way down to the steering pitman arm. So I couldn’t access the bees. there’s no other way to get to them without cutting a hole. And they’re not worth cutting a hole in the machine for. I managed to vacuum up a good 500-700 bees at least. And put them in their own box. Gave them some food and water. I put some cinnamon around the area they were going in, it supposedly is off putting. So it will hopefully make them move. Then I hope to snag the queen if she moves somewhere else. but a bonus, now that I have the steering box off. I was having some problems turning left. The power steering worked just fine going right, but left was an absolute bear. Any ideas?