I pulled off this alternator because it was in my way .This Hitachi Ex200-5 has a bearly leaking front crank seal for a few years . The alt is working A1 but I was wondering if I could dip it or spray it with something now or when running back on the machine to remove some of the sh-t without damaging insulation ,bearings or electronics . I dont know if the regulator is internal or not . (a bit more of a bosch man but not really into alternator repairs ) .I am not keen on striping it .
I don't have a great answer to your question but maybe heat it up to 180 degrees F or so to get the oil softer and blow it out with high pressure air just to get rid of oil that blocks the passages? Split the cases if you really want to get ambitious?
Anything you use will get into the bearings. I'd pull it apart. It's easy to take apart, getting the brushes back isn't hard as long as you know the trick. I don't know the style, but there's usually a trick to getting them together, or at least a proper order. Do you have access to a parts washer with solvent? or a can of diesel, or gas if you do it outside and have a brush pile to burn. Then you can grease up the bearing again and be good for another few years. One thing to be careful especially with a gunked up alternator, don't jump start it with the batteries drained way down, let them charge up a while first. Or if you have to jump it, let it sit at medium speed with no accessories to charge the batteries. If you jump something and take off with the accessories on, the alternator has a huge load and will burn out at low rpms and/or blocked cooling.
Try CRC Electromotive cleaner
Myself, I would blast it with the pressure washer and exchange it for a new/rebuilt unit. By the time that much gunk is cleaned off... Who knows what may be damaged in the process.
How much does downtime / labor cost you ? Do it now or do it later depends on how much you need the machine. A farm machine used for the odd jobs... A little CRC electro-kleen ... a machine that may hold up a $$$ job with hefty penalties for late completion get a new one.
It's already on the bench, four more screws and it's apart. If it's OEM, don't replace it with a cheap aftermarket, that one is VERY WELL PRESERVED.
I'm with delmer. If its lived through all that oil, I don't see where putting some diesel on it with a brush and then cleaning/ scraping it off is going to hurt it any more than the oil did. I find a little diesel really loosens up the old oil soaked stuff. Put the alternator in a shallow pan with 1/2 gallon or so of diesel and brush it all on it and let it soak in a little. Scrape it off and maybe a little brake cleaner on the hard to get at places, and to remove the diesel residue.
Good info as always . It is original . It should outlive an aftermarket one even left as is . I may well rip it . I should replace the bearings as it has 18k of use with 2 b belts kept ft at all times . Thicko's put the alt on the wrong side of the engine . What solvents could I let it soak in ? or is CRC the best if I can get it . When googeling CRC ,i came by an article that recommended paint thinners . I would be thinking white spirits or the like . It is only my own time to waist but this is the machine I brought into the shop to line bore the dipper pin bores . I started with the swing trans seal ,swing motor ,pump controller o rings, oil cooler , exhaust manifold . I wont get boring till christmas . Sorry , ranting . It is only my own time .
18,000 hours? replace it and don't look back.
Yes, brushes, bearings, regulator electronics, even the windings themselves don't last forever and they have definitely been worked in this condition.
Depends on how many hours you plan to put on it, and how much you value your time. If you can find a decent rebuild kit, bearings brushes and go. 18,000 hours is nothing for an electric motor.
x2 on CO's post #8..
I wouldn't use brake cleaner. The flamable stuff is a hot solvent that the electronics cleaner is designed to avoid. The nonflamable stuff might not be available in the EU? You don't want to melt the plastics inside, paint thinner or diesel will work fine IMHO.
Any local shops nearby? Usually a local electric shop will do an excellent job
I have been dunking it in a bucket of diesel when I pass it and it is brightening dunk on dunk . I will blow it off and keep dunking .
Looks like it will run another 18000 hrs.
I ripped it .I soaked it in petrol (gasoline) and blew it off with compressed air . The only brand of front bearing I could get is this PFI which I never herd of before . It is a cool machine .No brushes ,no regulator . It is back on the mackine again with a new cooling pack so hopefully it and the rest of the work will pay off .
I should have mentioned. I keep an old dishwasher in the shop for things just like that. It is amazing how well they clean up. Just have to let them sit in the sun for a day or two to dry out internally before putting them back into service.
Very good idea . I just use an old washing machine drum and hot pressure washer . I have on old electric oven I must wire up in the shop to go with my deep fat frier of ATF . Mostly everything has a use .
What do you do with the ATF fryer? Heat parts for installation? Or some sort of cleaning?
I started using it to heat hydraulic cylinder seals and then taper roller bearings
How hot can you get it before the ATF gets too scary, and have you ever wished to get something hotter than felt safe in the fryer?
I yoused to soften stubborn cylinder seals in boilng water n a sauspan over the oxy propane cutting torch .One time I was failing to get a seal on and was told to boil it in oil instead . A pan of boiling oil over a torch didnt sound right so I tought of this as a safer more temperature controlled option . ATF seems to have a higher flash point than most other oil so I went with that . I think it is well over 200 C and I set the frier to 150 max . I have only ever seen a volvo spec for installing axle pinion bearings and it said heat to 150 C . It is plenty , they just fall on and save a lot of pressing .
From Birken: How hot can you get it before the ATF gets too scary, and have you ever wished to get something hotter than felt safe in the fryer? Hot enough to soften seals just not hot enough to fry!!! Sounds good to me! I always softened seals in hat water, did not trust where could take oil and be able to hand handle parts.
I was thinking more the fryer oil catching on fire.
Drop something with any water in it into that hot oil ,BADDD Day!! As far as the Alternator, looked to have sealed ball bearings, good thing, set of brushes and a little clean up be good to go.
A pot of hot oil in the shop is a lifesaver I just use a old hotplate and pot of engine oil to heat bearings The deep frier is a great idea though
I just tought with the electric frier with variable temp up to 190C would be safe enough even to use veggie oil ,it will do the same job . As for the alternator ,it has no brushes or in built regulator ,the bearings are the only wearing part . I only fired the machine up last week so I was delighted to see the battery light go out .