Anybody ever substituted anti-seize in place of grease? A while back I packed a small grease gun with anti-seize and tried in on my stabilizer feet. They seem most prone to the grease drying up and causing me to have to work on them to get new grease in. I was greasing my hoe yesterday and when I plugged onto the stabilizer foot and started to shoot grease in I was reminded I had packed it with anti-seize. The anti-seize started to ooze out the sides and was still fluid. I wonder if it would be worth the expense to grease the whole thing with this stuff. What I use is the nickle base that is the highest temperature rated. I have tried the regular silver stuff on boiler element bolts and it solidified but the high temp nickle did not. Seems like it would stay put longer and increase the greasing interval times. I can't seem to find any in a 14 ounce tube though. I have found copper base but I see warnings against using that for certain stuff. Mainly warning not to use it for outboard motors. I have used copper base on exhaust bolts before. https://industrial.bostik.com/grease-anti-seize-know-difference/ I usually use a good 5% moly and don't grease as often as I should but so far my pins seem to be holding up well.
I use both neversieze and grease, however, I have never thought to interchange them. In my mind, neversieze is made up of powdered metals mixed with a lubricant. It is the powdered metals that would scare me in a pin that rotates hundreds of times if not more in a day. On the other hand, grease greatly reduces friction. I bet you could use neversieze on your stabilizers for as long as you own it without wearing out the pins and bushings. Not so sure about using it on the bucket, crowd, boom, or swing cylinders tho...
I meant to say I used it on the foot end of my stabilizer cylinder pins. The foot pivots have no fittings.
"This makes it ideal for many nut, bolt and press fit applications." this is where I use antiseize, but usually only for unusual situations like SS or AL, or exhaust temps. Lug nuts get grease, no need for anti seize in most places it gets used. The stabilizer feet are another question. You wonder if they and other dry joints were designed that way for cost, or because they would wear more with grease holding the grit? or both? that probably means that it doesn't matter one way or the other. It's not like a little slop that develops in the outer end of the stabilizer foot pin is going to affect the operation. So no, I've never used anti seize in place of grease, and often use grease in places others use anti seize.
Antiseize is way better than grease, if your putting it under your buddys door handle on his pickup. Grease is better under the windsheild wiper.
Farmerlund, . I want to subscribe to your news letter.
It's always been my belief Neversieze was aluminum dust and grease compound but I could be wrong. I can't see that being a problem with hard pins and bushings, it might even act as a lubricant similar to graphite. It would be interesting to me to see test results of wear using this compared to grease. I think the expense would be the downside.
We used kopr kote by the 5 gallon bucket on drilling rigs. Every tool joint gets doped completely before screwing them together to prevent galling and premature wear on the threads and sealing surfaces. Kopr kote is a copper based anti-seize compound comprised of copper and grease. The main focus is to reduce the friction during make up and break out of the threaded connection to protect the tool joint. In general, we did not put kopr-kote on stuff that didn't need kopr-kote. If it had a grease fitting, it got grease. Kopr kote was $450 a pail. Bulk grease is around $125-150 pail. Grease tubes can be changed to fit the specific needs of machine point, kopr kote (anti-seize) has a focused task. Also, in cold weather, kopr kote (anti-seize) gets extremely stiff and hard to work with. You can get cold weather greases that perform better in cold environments. Overall, no, I will not grease my equipment with an anti-seize. I will stick to what is recommended for the lube point, and lube more frequently than is recommended. A couple pumps per joint on a regular basis, really helps keep moisture out which keeps rust out.
Agreed! Somehow I think somebody must have tested all the different types of antiseize vs. greases, we just need to find the data. Maybe not such a big deal as he is in Fla, and keeps his machine in a barn, but for me, living where it rains often and the machine is outside, this is a real consideration!
I did this one time to my buddys pickup when he was parked at a fleet store. I then pulled a watchable distance away to watch his reaction... to my amazement, IT WAS NOT HIS PICKUP.
I painted a guys accelerator pedal on his pickup w/anti seize once, and boy was his wife PISSED at me when he got home and walked across the carpet.....
Antiseize has graphite in it thats why its so messy .We made are own after we found alot of graphite cheap. We mixed graphite with STP. It seemed to work ok but i didnt have any long term dealings with it because the boss retired and sold out. I may make some up and start using it agin.
Practical jokes can go all sorts of wrong and become dangerous. I replaced a co-worker's coil wire with a piece of vacuum tube once. To my dismay he started the car and was driving away. Instead of having the fun of watching him troubleshoot the problem I had to chase him down and confess before he could pull out into traffic and have it fall on it's face. Another incident was at work where a maintenance guy was replacing a light ballast. There were four other maintenance guys watching so I decided to take a "how many people does it take to replace a ballast photo". When the camera flash went off it startled the guy working and he almost fell off the ladder. That was the end of my wanting to play a joke on anyone. Greasing a go pedal in a vehicle is very risky. That lube would probably transfer to the brake pedal. Not a practical joke but another place I worked once one of the employees was detailing cars on the side. She slicked up the pedals on one of the other workers cars with ArmorAll. He backed out of his parking place, foot slipped off the brake, and hit the gas. He fortunately got it under control but almost had a heart attack. Sometimes practical jokes come off and are funny. We had a kid at a shop that had just rebuilt the engine in hos VW. One of the techs had a military smoke bomb and wired it to the coil wire with the fuse under a bosch VW type fuse. When the kid started the engine it blew the VW fuse and lit the smoke bomb. The look on the kid's face was priceless!
Anyone remember "Auto foolers"?
Found this one on you tube. Not exactly a grease vs. antiseeze, but some interesting facts gleaned. I sent the guy a message that he should do the friction test on the different types of antiseeze vs good quality grease. He responded, thanks for the suggestion. Not sure he will do it, but he has done the friction tests in the past.
In my oppinion best antiseeze is crude oil. and we in Russia in old days had a negroil, it is smth between greese and oil. For oil it is too thick, and for a greese it is liquid. It was used in old car axiles . Not good in north latitude areas, but on a south of Russia there was nothing better. Once I was lucky to check out a factory garage before we demolition it. I found 5 litre of it in old geniune cans. It took quite a time for to use it. Its film remains on pin even after 8 hr heavy work for two days never had enything better. I know where they still use it here in Russia but I got no connections to get it, they use it in train brakes
They recommend 00 Grease for a lot of gearboxes on brush mowers and tillers. Most use 90W or 140W until the seals start to leak then switch to the pour able grease. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/super-s-cotton-picker-spindle-grease-00 If a mod sees this please fix my dyslexic title.
Good ole’ project farm. Love those videos.
There was a vacuum tubing that had i think graphite in it we once told a guy that it had so good of a spark it could travel in side the length of a vac line. A crew came to the shop and replaced all are lights with leds while they were still on. The very last light was at the fare end of the shop i was standing buy the switch as soon as he made the last conection i turned the switch off.
Yeah black rubber contains carbon and is conductive. Doesn't work as an insulator either.