new guy here. Just got a 580c that has been sitting for years (upwards of 10). Started up immediately after I hotwired and jumped it. Got key now, so I won't need to do that anymore. I proceeded to blow the return line to the hydraulic filter. Replaced that with a hose that cost me $250. There's another return line that has a pinhole. I'm thinking about cutting it and hose clamping a hose onto it as a temp repair, but i am unable to find what the return pressure is supposed to be. Anyone know? The steering line to the right cylinder also blew out... lots-o-rust on this thing... i haven't got it to the shop yet either.
Welcome to HEF, TnG ! If you have an acetylene torch it could be brazed. If not cut the line and put on a sleeve made out of hose and clamp it. Any auto parts store will have a diesel fuel tolerant hose for you needs.
The return line pressure is essentially zero, since it just empties into the tank. When the filter is clogged, you can see around 50 psi, but it shouldn't be that normally.
Thank you, Tinkerer. I believe the lines are too far rusted for that unfortunately... it would just expose another weak spot. Found one of the steering lines, to or from the pump, is actually copper tube. I don't believe that will work for the lines going to the cylinders, but i haven't looked up working pressures yet. I was thinking the same, Mitch. When the first hydraulic return line blew, it sprayed, but it didn't seem that high of a pressure. I've got a hose maker in the shop, so I do believe I will make hoses for all the return tubes/pipes. I'm not very good at bending tubing...
Your hydraulic pressure lines will be about 2500 psi.
Don't let that "spray" fool you into thinking it isn't high pressure. It may not be, but it most likely is and can cause severe injury.
Absolutely, I actually blew yet another hose today trying to unlock the backhoe. That one was definitely high pressure. Not gonna half do any repairs, but i am...frugal? Got it in the shop and will systematically repair the whole thing when money and time are available. Gonna start with the steering after I get the currently leaking hoses renewed. I'll need to test after each repair afterall.
Dale @ Tractorstuff told me his site was down but his phone works.. 1800-428-8183 He can probably help u out w the hoses u need.??
Anyone happen to know if the steel brake line is 1/4 or 3/16" off hand?
1/4" 7/16-24 thread
Thanks!
So, I'm on my brakes. The left side came apart easy and is back together. Now I gotta install the master cylinder and brake lines. The right side was full of oil. I know I SHOULD reline them, but I am going to put that off until they start giving me problems. The question I have is: can I pull and install the seal in place? Do I need to take the plate off? The service manual shows how to plate off, but the axle is also removed. If I remove the plate, will the bearing come with it? Will the shaft get all cockeyed because I didn't remove the axle? TIA
Left side master cylinder installed... and leaking at the fitting. Pretty sure its the threads. Have a special tap on the way. Hopefully that will fix the problem. Unfortunately, the ebay special master cylinders were garbage. Bad threads and full of rust. On another note, found the shaft for the diff lock has sheared. New ones are $190. I'll buy one and put that on the "to do later list."
Looks like we are in the same boat. I rebuilding a 580C too. In the middle of doing the brakes. My left brake is really tight on the cross shaft. I am moving it but it is just not freeing up. I think I going to just cut the shaft and press out the old and make a new shaft. I order masters and slaves for Ebay and mine look good. (new). From another post: The rubber line to the Slave: $10. Sunsong 2203575 on Amazon. I believe BH4497 is the same line too. I'll pick up two of these today.
Can you post a link for the one's on eBay . I'm needing to do mine also . Thanks
I have the app, so i can't send a link, but if you search "580c brake" on eBay it will come up. Outlaw, you might be able to salvage the shaft if you pull the bearing carrier out. You should be able to get to the screw that holds it in even with the brake drum on there. I haven't got an answer yet on if the tractor has to be off the wheels or the axle removed to pull the carrier though.
if the end of that shaft is snapped off you've got a lot bigger fish to fry....that's the center shaft that runs through the middle of the center wheel,you're not getting that out w/o pulling the bull gears,differential,spider gears/pins etc......you might as well read a bunch of threads on trans axle removal and rebuild....just did it to my machine because side gear shims were destroyed,,lots of grinding and noise when going down the road.....might want to take all your beer cans back because it aint cheap.... or.....you can remove the right side cover clean that broken shaft enough to replace small internal seal and r/s seal as long as you have it off......say good bye to diff lock
oops forgot about other post about brake hoses... that line 2203575 doesn't work,original poster updated number to 2203082 but dont know if thats correct...didn,t order...I've got two of the 2203575 hoses if anyone needs them................
Stinky, I figured that was in my future. The plan is to do that after the machine is operational. I have a lot of hoses to renew, brakes are almost complete, and some metal work on the fender and floorboard. I won't need the diff lock until I get it running and to my property. Luckily, there is no grinding noises or anything when driving currently. Can i take the bearing carrier off and change seals without lifting the tractor off the wheels or removing the axle?
I ended up going with the 1974 maverick brakes lines. They worked and the Napa had them in stock. Living on an island in Alaska makes it tough to get parts in a decent amount of time. Not to mention a lot of companies charge a lot to ship here or don't ship here at all. Even Amazon takes up to 2 weeks to ship something out. Then it takes another week to get here.
holy crap I read a little further..sorry for multiple messages...Outlaw try a large puller and heat if needed but DON'T CUT CROSS SHAFT...ie...previous post....
Yes you can remove carrier w/o removing axles or lifting machine..... it may seem hard to get off, but it's the inner o-ring sticking,provided you have removed phillips screw first....that inner seal is possible with a good cross shaft...but yours is not good.. if you want to pull that side gear top cover and r/s bull gear will have to be removed to address shaft issue.. good luck...
This what I ordered. Master and Slave 2 of each. Come packed well and in bags. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Mast...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 My update: The left pedal was giving me hell. I could not press the left without all three going. Right worked. The left was locked onto the shaft. I ended up cutting the shaft out. Stop by the metal supply store and pick up 15" x 1.25 of cold rolled. Had to cut two keyways into but it will all go back together tomorrow. If anyone needs to know one key is in the right pedal and the other is in the paw the drives both pedals. The easy way to work on all this is to pull the dash and the floor. The shuttle handle and throttle have to be pulled apart. These are clamp and they also have a roll pins. You also have to pull a part the wiring under the dash. Label everything and take photos. I have to rewire my 580C. Oh don't forget to disconnect the battery [not ask]. My plan is to remount all the wiring onto a board that can be gotten to. Till sourcing relays and breakers. I didn't get the rubber lines yet, but I figure I replace them while I have the floor up. The lines look good but will flush them with brake cleaner.
I haven't taken apart the dash, not ready to tackle the wirng just yet. I did remove the floorboard and fenders. It definitely makes working on the brakes easier. My dash is already jacked up, so when I get there I will make a new one.
TnG those photos are awesome.....I can repair just about anything ,but I'm still sportin' a flip phone and don't have a clue how to post photos....your machine is a lot shinier than mine ,western N.Y. winters and a lot of road salt have taken their toll on the old girl...but that's just character......as long as they're mechanically sound....as far as tearing the dash out,if you're not worried about aestetics you can just cut a hole in l/s of dash about the size of master so you can get bolts out...the access panels in top of dash will help as well.......Outlaw ,were you making sparks in the cab??????
If you can send and receive emails in a PC it quite easy. Send yourself the photos from your phone. Then open the email in the PC and download and save it. After that just upload the image into your HEF reply. It can also be done by sending the images to yourself in a text message. I do it both ways several times a week.
Yup. The circuit breaker post touched the floor. I didn't know the fenders come off like that. What is the blue circle.
Looks like the dipstick for the transaxle, it unscrews
She a bit rougher than she looks. Gonna have to fab a new fender and floorboard. When I'm waiting on parts and out of spare cash, I'm busy chasing rust and bathing it in ospho. I'm pretty much a jack of all trades, master of nothing. Been a mechanic in the Coast Guard for 21 years so far. The thing is, I've never worked on the same thing. Hvac, hydraulics, small boats, big diesels, pretty much everything. Never specialized in anything, though. The blue circle is my dipstick for the transaxle. Home made no doubt. The fender came off fairly easy. 3 bolts to the ROPS, 4 to the floorboard, one or two to the hoe control area... i did have to cut the wires that go to the lights on the ROPS as they run through the fender.
The blue circle is my dipstick for the transaxle. Home made no doubt. Mine looks the same so either the guy that made yours is getting around or its stock. I think Stock.
Definitely stock..I was confused as well when I first brought mine home,until I got "THE BOOKS" 2 repair manuals,parts manual, and the original operators manual for 99 bucks on ebay from Peaceful Creek Auctions... Having the parts manual makes it so much easier to find and order parts online when you have part numbers for every part on the machine.......after first order savings,"THE BOOKS" were paid for........... Tinkerer thanks for the phone info....I need to get some air time for my phone, but I will give er a whirl......
So I now have brakes?.?.?.? They work but not fully tested. It the hoe up in the air the brakes will stop the tires spinning. The right brake is binding every now and then but if released and tried again it works. I am looking at the diff lock on the side side of the right brake. I can't turn the shaft going into it. I pulled the bolts that hold it to the brake and the cover would turn a little when tapped with a dead blow. Is there a quick fix to make these work? Should I pull the brake cover to get this apart?
Did you get the flush mount Allen bolt? It should come off and give you access to soak it in kroil or acetone/trans fluid or whatever you like to use.
6 bolts total. Stinky, I got the same books from the same place. I have a digital copy, but sometimes paper is better.
Don't need to pull brake cover...just pull diff lock cover to make sure nothing is seized/broken....pull return spring off of both brake levers on top of brake housings to make sure they move freely,if not lube the crap out of them because they will cause much annoyance later....
TnG ....ya posted while I was typing...gotta love paper.....next thing you should try to find is old roosa master injector pump manual,its not a case component and not in the parts manual...I scored an old I/H blue ribbon service gss-1271-c fuel system manual for 10 bucks online...eventually you're gonna need that one too if your pump was never serviced....It's coming,but not too difficult to tackle with pictures and patience....
I am a PB blaster user. Just found that %^@%^ Allen bolt. REALLY! There is a designer still laughing about this. I found the the Allen bolt watching a youtube vid but thank you so much. The vid is old but he is working on his brakes too. The only reason I want to pull it off is to free up the input shaft without braking the shifter fork. I am not sure what is binding. I think it is the shaft going thought the cast. Most things on this 580 just needs to be freed up. NOTE to anyone buying new Masters and Slaves. Before you put them in, open the Masters the caps and get any loose casting crap out. I got mine mounted and plumbed and had to remove them to get the crap out.
More than I will ever need to know about a Roosa-Master DB injection pump can be read and or downloaded here. ---> http://www.stanadyne.com/dealerportal/ssi/english/Product Manual/99523.pdf
Ask and you shall receive....definite no brainer for anyone with newly acquired machine that has been sitting or not been repaired before ,you will get a run and stall condition ,and you will have "coffee grounds" in the top cover of your injection pump....download this pdf and save it...it's coming.....
The fuel system was the 1st thing clean on my 580C. I pulled the fuel tank and had the goo and rust cleaned. There was 2 inches of what looked like a lose brown / black tar. I was told it is what happens to Bio fuel if left in the tank. The easy way to pull the tank is to cut the filler tube about 2 inches up from the tank. I used a piece of hose used for fuel tank fillers an two hose clamps. The fuel line and filter housing has to be cleaned too. I got lucky and the seller had the pump rebuilt before I bought it and had slaved in a fuel tank and filter.
Hmm... i just changed my fuel filters yesterday. Everything looked fine, and the diesel didn't seem bad. Only thing that has me slightly worried is the water/sediment bowl at the bottom of the fuel tank is clogged.
I have the difference lock cover off and moving agian. I figure this gets grease? And I would think not a lot as it looks open to the brakes. Awaiting reply so I can put it in.
I would lightly grease the inside of the coupling where the splines of the shaft mate up. On another note: Is this bad? What is it? It is on the 2 spool valve for the FEL
Pretty sure that's the load leveling /anti fill your cab with dirt valve,and pretty sure its supposed to be attached.....