I take it the use of anit-seize on a cylinder gland nut is verboten? Other than the pressures involved are there any other reasons? Any other areas where you shouldn't use it? Thanks, R
I don't know where that idea came from. I have used it many times especially on cylinders used in fertilizer, salt, sugar or any corrosive area. I also use it on cylinders where they are vertical and water can sit on top. Or live their life with light usage. Don't use it on your hands if you might scratch your nose (or other body parts).
I use it all the time on glands and bolt threads. The problem is that it is usually over applied just like silicon and makes a huge mess...........and you don't want that mess mixing with your oils.
Well...alrighty then. I wasn't sure and didn't wanna F anything up. I use it on everything on everything that's metal into metal bolts and screws, spark plugs, etc. But I was not sure that with the higher pressures of a cylinder would cause the gland to back out. I will use judiciously. Thank you. R
Thats about the same as it making lug nuts get loose and weld exhaust pipes together
Just be very careful if using it on spark plugs to not get any on the porcelain parts or you will have spark going the wrong places!
If you pull the wiper arms off your vehicle, brush some onto the driving stubs before you reinstall the arms. They'll come off easily in the future instead of the fight of usual. Just did that today on a Mack semi tractor a buddy owns and recently started running.
Excluding internal parts such as inside engines, pumps, etc, my general rule of thumb is if it don't get Loctite it gets never seize.
Don't let the scalehouse cops see Neversieze or the like on lug studs. For some reason they believe your lugs will come loose with it. Nevermind the revenue generator the citation is.....
To be clear, I don't use never seize on lug studs. If anything, if the studs are rusty and/or rough, just a very light dab of WD40 to assist dealing with thread friction mucking up proper nut torque. WD40 isn't super slickery and doesn't hang around for long, just there long enough to make a good torque up.
Growing up dad always neversezed them up and beat them on with a impact. I did the same till I started pulling wrenches in the real world. I now use a turque wrench but still lube them. Never a lick of problems either way. Now the ford dealer that works on the pickups at my dad job lost 2 wheels off our trucks....
On spark plugs I have seen it act like loctite from drying out and heat.
I thought antisieze was best for heat, and I'll usually use grease if it's not a spark plug or exhaust part. Or sometimes dissimilar metals.
Oddly enough, Toyota advise in every one of their owner manuals to never use lubricant of any kind on wheel studs/nuts. Yet I've had a multitude of unlubricated wheel nuts gall the threads on the studs when unscrewing them. High tensile threads "pick up" really easy when they're screwed up or unscrewed completely dry. I reckon gravel road dust makes it worse. So, any time I install wheel nuts, the studs get a sniff of nickel anti-seize. Not a whole lot, just enough to ensure the threads don't gall next time. The oil ingredient in anti-seize dries out over time, anyway. I have never, ever, had a wheel nut of any kind come off, in 58 years of driving and owning all types of wheeled vehicles. I'd estimate I've probably driven at least 3,000,000 kilometres. For many years, I did around 80,000kms a year. But I have been in my fathers car as a youngster, when we lost a wheel, because the garage owner only did the wheel nuts up finger tight. and forgot to tighten them fully!
It should say in the specs for it how much heat it will take. Normal everyday stuff not too much heat.
From the New Holland Manual: Threaded Glands: Apply six drops of Loctite® 262/271 Threadlocker to the threads of the gland and tighten gland nut to the specified torque using torque meter, 1, and peg wrench, 2. Use a suitable vise or the attaching point on the machine to hold the cylinder pivot point while tightening the gland nut. Although the above proceedure calls for threadlocker, I do not use it. I use neversieze on all the gland nuts on my machine. I have seen neversieze do amazing things to aid in the removal of a threaded object that has sat out in the weather over years. The above stated, my machine is only on my property, and operated by me. A commercial machine with many operators, operators that will not give the machine a onceover prior to operation, is a different story. In this case, I would follow the manual, and hope I didnt have to open the cylinder up again, because, properly installed loctite works very well...operitive word is tite or tight!!
Aluminum, nickel or copper is the next question. What’s your favorite flavor?
Loctite Copper is my personal go to but currently have a can of nickel I do like the metal free stuff for somethings like steel lines on th aluminum Condensers I doubt it matters tho
You're just the guy to agonize over that decision. Copper and nickel both cause galvanic corrosion, and aluminum will suffer galvanic corrosion (talking carbon steel here). So if it's corrosion I'm worried about, I use grease. Anti seize for heat or dissimilar metals.
I found copper anti-seize had inadequate resistance to corrosion, so I've used nickel anti-seize for over 50 years and never had any problems. I've never tried aluminium anti-seize - anytime I get near aluminium of any kind, it seems it's always the source of major corrosion!
Oh...great. Now I have to worry about what flavor anti-seize I use. (grumblegrumblegrumble....)
LOL, that is funny! I use the regular neversieze on gland nuts. As I previously stated, I have seen it work...Years ago, I was a mechanic for the utility company I currently work for. Back then the bucket trucks had 2 sets of cables. The cable end threaded into the cylinder. When replacing the cables (every 5 years), the cylinder had to be completly removed from the end. 5 years of sitting out in the weather, and these broke loose every time, if the guy before you used the neversieze. If not, out came the sawzall and off came the cylinder to get the 2 apart. That is all the proof I needed to use it in my personal life!
It never sezes to amaze me how many refuse to use it. Seems they never work on the same thing twice
Finding corroded fasteners where a previous installer failed to use anti-seize is enough to give you a seizure.
I wish there was an anti-seize vitamin or something for aching bones and other body parts.
Boss purchased a brand spanking new gas engine portable pressure washer today. It rolled in, looked it over, damn this thing is fancy, electric start and all. Kohler V twin engine, all pretty and clean. What do I do straight off the bat??? Yep, remove the exhaust manifold nuts and straightaway apply never seize to the studs then screw the nuts back on. Yeah, I'm anal about this stuff.
I worked for a guy that made his own . He used powdered graphite that he got from the salvage store i also worked at . I dont remember but he ether used 80/90 gear oil or STP mixed in it. I use it on lug nuts all the time on my own stuff but not on other peoples stuff .
I used to apply anti seize to my lug nuts on my truck, never had a problem. Then bought a set of tires at CostCo and they rotate for free but at the first rotation a couple years ago they spent probably a half hour cleaning every lug and told me not to use the stuff... funny too just had a flat front on the hoe when the air valve got broke off and was planning to make sure and anti seize them when installing tomorrow.
They pulled one of guys in for some b/s and he told him to eat his dirty ass. That didn't go over well. They picked through that truck with a magnifying glass for ANYTHING they could find.
lol. Well, they did go to lug nut school, and are just following company policy & OEM torque procedures. Worried about your safety. Be sure to return after 100 miles for the retorque. Bless their hearts. They probably filled them tires with nitrogen, too. And used green valve stem caps.
Well, I still use it on mine near each time the lugs are off. I also do use a pressure washer on the wheels of trucks so anything external to the threaded portion, (which does nothing) is washed away. It's worked far too many years for me to stop. Once the nuts are broken free, fingers will remove them from the parent studs. Very few exceptions to this unless a numbskull with an impact wrench has been there first.
I have used anti-seize on lug studs for near 30 years. Nary a problem. I am in the camp of "use it on just about everything" like some of the other guys who responded.
Lug nuts on my antique Porsche car have Anti seize from the factory. Steel studs, aluminum nuts. I always require any tire service to use a special socket I supply, to remove the nuts. And leave the car outside for me to use my torque wrench for final torque. Years ago, NTW screwed up the car before, my SOP.
Thumbs up to that,, they do fill with nitro, and balance every wheel.. but no green stems and I see they quit requiring a return to re torque ,, hypocrisy runs just so deep, you know most probably do it logically at home. . lol And they have the Nazi police at the gas station making sure old guys and women take those gas cans off the tail gate to fill, and have those pressure sensitive pump nozzles to make sure you freeze your butt off in a Gail force wind and tweak that back more,, but for an average of .10 to 20 cents savings I'll risk a sore back or head cold for a few hours
Only takes a short stint working around fertilizer/Ag to change ones tune about using anti-seize.
Living and working in the "rust belt" i get tired of extracting broken studs and bolts. I too use it on anything I may have to take back apart.
There are different grades of anti seize compounds. It pays to use the right formulation for the task at hand. Products www.henkel-adhesives.com That said, I primarily use LB 771 Nickel based compound.
This one works great for electrical conductivity and dissimilar metal joining. We used it extensively with stainless to carbon steel fastening and all electrical grounding/bonding scenarios. https://www.amazon.com/Jet-Lube-Ant...1848&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF+O5021pAnSA==&sr=8-3&th=1 Another that is a more widely recognized product and pretty much a direct competitor: LOCTITE® LB 8008 C5-A LOCTITE LB 8008 C5-A is an exclusive anti-seize lubricant in a brush top form with copper and graphite suspended in high quality grease. It has an NLGI Grade of 0. www.henkel-adhesives.com I like the Jet-Lube products but any of them will separate when setting on a shelf or in a hot toolbox requiring agitation or remixing of the product.
Just remember anti seize has sand in it I use it on tires as well
I got new tires not too long ago and asked about coming back for a retorque. No need, the new procedure is to mount the wheels then back up hard and apply the brakes then check/retorque the lug nuts.
A couple older John Deere mechanics swore to NEVER USE ANTISIEZE EVER on anything. "Just use a good penetrating oil during assembly". Insert. Me. The next season having to torch off every bearing they installed on every combine shaft they touched on a 9660 CTS rice combine... So, yeah I use the stuff... and a few light taps with a punch and hammer or a trusty ol' bearing splitter they come right off. It sure is nice being the next guy after you did the repair yourself before! I carry multiple types of anti seize on my shop truck depending on what i'm assembling. I have found that the "Thread Magic" stick anti seize works awesome on sparkplugs. I did have an uncle that used to rebuild electric motors and told me never use it on those bearings, something about the electrical current damn near welds itself together, but i've never verified that statement.
Did not know there were different kinds, only used the silver stuff that seems to travel all over on it's own sometimes from your hands to tools and what you don't want it on. |-= bought a used trailer one time and after a year or so decided one day to pull the wheels and check stuff,, would not have been able on the road to change a flat. Lubed .
Oh the good old silver gremlin, works good under door handles on your buddys truck, just like a heavy duty zip tie on their driveshaft.. hahah. best thing i've been taught on most stainless to stainless connections in the fertilizer world is to use a dab of clear silicone on the thread instead of anti seize. No galling the threads. don't know why or how but it works
I never seize everything and loctite should be banned from the planet! -- IF ya ever tried to take out a bolt that had that crap put on it you would know why!!!!
Installing with penetration fluid is about the reverse of using anti seize, about the only thing worse would be using brake fluid.
Red, yes. Blue, not so much. Did the undercarriage on my 1150 a few years ago. Blue loctite on mostly all the fasteners. Only ones that were trouble were the ones that didn't have it. All roller bolts spun out with the 1/2" Milwaukee. I'm a believer in the blue loctite in those applications.
The red Loctite has it's place and it states in the literature it will require heat to loosen the parts. Trouble is latest generations have as much trouble reading and comprehending english, as they do speaking chinese, so don't bother with the attempt and the product is blamed when it is inappropriately used in an application. The blue, and the green are the most versatile of the products for general usage.
Yep says right on the red bottle, the green works well as so does the bearing retaining compound for loose races. Steering fasteners and brake hardware get the blue same with smaller driveshaft hardware.
I've had numerous other well-qualified and highly experienced people tell me that Silastic (clear silicone) works best for them as an anti-seize product. Never tried it myself, but I believe what they tell me. I use the nickel anti-seize as it withstands heat well, and still protects from corrosion even when operating in salty ground, of which there's plenty where I live.
Last summer I attended a Permatex seminar. I learned that for high vibration applications the orange Permatex is the ticket. It has the same strength as the blue, but should it see shock, it is still resists unthreading. Once the blue cracks loose, it does not resist unthreading. I used it for te first time recently on flywheel bolts.
I have always used the blue on flywheel retention fasteners since losing a flywheel and crankshaft both on the VW bug that was my family car at the time when that large flywheel retaining nut backed off. That cost money I didn't have in those days to replace parts. I've not forgotten that painful lesson.
According to Nord Lock Loctite is terrible for vibration. It's likely one of those tests where they can skew the results to fit their agenda.
I can tell you this much - the lower grade anaerobic threadlockers may have reduced threadlocking abilities - but high grade Loctite threadlockers will never let a thread go, you need heat to make them release. I've seen guys using 6' cheater pipes trying to unscrew big transmission yoke nuts locked on with high grade threadlocker, and they couldn't budge them. They'll resist all the massive vibration a badly out-of-balance drive shaft can throw at them.
I agree. Red Loctite is specified on some really critical bolts. I used Nord Lock washers on the wheel adaptors I had made for the grader for a couple reasons. The outside nuts aren't accessible and I didn't want any chance of them coming loose and if they did ever have to come off wouldn't require heat. I didn't think blue Loctite would be sufficient. The orange Loctite maybe?? The 1" bolts that actually hold the wheels on are only 1 1/2" long. They couldn't protrude much past the thickness of the adaptors (3/4"). Doing some reading it's generally better to use longer bolts with thick spacers than short bolts. I saw this on some JD tractors and combines at a dealership. In an effort to save having to have 40 thick spacers made up I went with the Nord Lock washers instead. Using Loctite on the 1" wheel bolts would require the red stuff. Then if I had to remove a wheel would require heat and a re-application of Loctite. With the Nord Locks I don't have to worry about vibration or torque on the wheels causing the bolts to come loose. Having run the grader for several hours I realized how easily the wheels can spin so I think it was a good idea to go with the Nord Lock washers. Something I don't have to worry about.
Might be a little off-topic but longer bolts with spacers can be very good and even essential in many applications! The thing to keep in mind is that in many applications(if not all) what helps keep things fastened securely is the spring effect of a bolt stretching as it is tightened. This is where longer bolts can be very beneficial. Just think of a coil spring that is only 1 inch long compared to one 3 inches long. The three inch bolt would have to stretch three times as much as the one inch bolt before either exceed their elastic limits. One example I know of is the exhaust manifold studs on a 3400 Cat. Ones I thinking of are only 3/8 inch studs going through about a 1/2 inch thick flange. Those studs are something around 3 inches long. If you tried replacing the studs and spacers with say 1 inch bolts I would be surprised if you didn't have them breaking in a short amount of time. One problem I could see would be using longer bolts but ones with only a minimum amount of threads as that would put the majority of the stretching right where the threads start. One reason in some cases they use bolts with reduced shanks to allow them to stretch over a longer distance. You can see that theory being used in places like say rod bolts on many engines for one.
Those 3406 manifold bolts seem to need all they help they can always seems a few are broken
That's another reason I used the Nord Lock washers. Because the bolts were very short I figured they wouldn't have the built in torque/twist a longer shank bolt would have and could come loose easier. They're working great so far, knock on wood.
Bolt stretch is the best fastener locking mechanism, my brother runs the match and designs a spacer long enough typically
Exactly, the reason now many things have torque to yield specs rather than just a straight torque value, you want the "stretch"
I have never used threadlock on anything and and never will and have never had bolts come loose!!!! Guess everybody has their own opinion on the crap BUT I have been stuck trying to get bolts out that some A**HOLE put the crap on them!!! Just my 02!
Some applications call for it. It's only a problem if you don't know it was applied. Having a bolt being difficult to remove is not nearly as bad as having it come loose and causing extensive damage.
Hydraulic cylinder piston retaining nut on a JLG 8042 lift cylinder, *apply loctite, tighten 600ft/lbs and stake nut in 4 places* that one was a rough one to say the least. It calls for it so on it went