Trying to get the pin out to repack the cylinder. I’ve heated it with the biggest rosebud but I can’t get it to budge. The cast ears are so big I don’t feel like I can heat them without heating the pin. Anyone have any ideas? Currently letting it cool in hopes somehow the heating broke something loose. Is it worth keeping on it or should I just lance it out and get a new one?
That pin is likely bent and won't come out easily. In that situation I would remove the pin from the barrel end of the cylinder and leave the rod attached.
Get the price of a new pin before deciding to blow a hole in the stuck one. A lot of times the heat is just to break the corrosion loose.
I was just thinking about this. That pin is loose….
Considering what you have done already, Paul and JohnC options are the best advise.
A new John Deere OEM pin is $173.48 + tax.
I suppose you've sprayed the heck out of it with a good quality penetrating oil.
I would normally agree, but that rod isn't looking that good...maybe it is just the pic, but it looks like it has taken some hits and the chrome is not so good.
I would use a reciprocating saw with some good metal cutting blades and cut the pin on both sides of the rod then burn the rest of the pin out of the ears.
The rod isn't worth saving. IMHO But the eye of it is for a new rod. I don't know why the screw is missing from the hole in the rod eye. I don't think it matters unless the bushing has a hole in it.
That hole was probably for a grease fitting at one time
I did this a couple months back & a sawzall did nothing but remove teeth from expensive Bosch blades. Joe H
How big of hammer are you using to drive the pin? I usually needed at least a twenty pounder.
Thermal Lance?? Some kind of iron rod on the end of an oxygen tank. Ignite the rod until the iron (I think it's iron) starts to blast furnace and just melt your way through the pin. I was preparing to try this (or have it done) and we finally got the Kingpin to move with a 40 ton jack.
The JD parts book shows a screw with a part number for that hole. With my luck if I tried the lance I would blow a gash in the rod eye and the mounting ears.
Heat it as you already have and then spray down with DOT3 brake fluid. Its the best penetrating oil I have ever found. Dont breath the fumes... If that doesn't work then you will have to lance it out.
I would try hammering on it with a blunt bit and a air chisel. Be careful not to mushroom the end. If that didn't work I would get a decent size cobalt bit and drill through the center. Then beat on it some more.
Victory! No. The rod isn’t great. It’s met some rocks. I was just going to buff it down and hope for the best. This is just a farm/personal use machine. I can only imagine what they would get for that rod. I was using a 10 pounder to beat it. I am starting to deform the end of the pin. It’s not past the point I could fix it up with a grinder but I am thinking it’s going to be misery the whole way. I haven’t even got it to move a fraction of an inch. I have tried oil but should have been soaking it for the past few weeks and didn’t. The hole is a grease zerk that’s sheared off. I was going to drill that out if I had got the pin out. I maybe still can. I was worried the bolt on the rod was going to be King Kong tight and I don’t have a impact socket that big…. It was finger tight! That could have been bad.
A 10 pounder will not do it get a 16 or a 20 and smack the daylights out of it if it mushrooms grind on it
When you use a hammer lighter than the amount of force it takes to move the pin, all you end up doing is denting the end of the pin. You can apply somewhere around 20 tons with a twenty pound hammer.
I guess that sheared off grease zerk is why JD put a screw in the eye when it was new. If the end of the pin is deformed from beating on it you may be screwed as far as pounding the pin out. Are both ends of the pin "deformed" ? If they are you may be forced to cut the pin now.
I don't know why they would put a screw in there. I was sure it was supposed to be a zerk. Huh. Interesting. I am giving up on the pin for the moment. But thank you for giving me a reason to buy a new hammer...... I honestly considered just making a new on on the old lathe I have, but wasn't sure how hard it needs to be. Both side are starting to mush. Thats kinda why I quit. I felt like I was on my way to a mess. I do like all the tips. Every time I come here for advice you guys don't let me down. It's much appreciated. Does anyone know of a pneumatic tool for something like this? Like a large air chisel?
Take the stabilizer off and press it out. 100 ton press will make a lot of pins move.
Try turning the pin 1/2 a turn with a big pipe wrench then try knocking it out. there may be a grove wore in it hanging it up on the rod eye.
I mused in my head about this. I wondered about the chances of breaking the ear off. haha I think I would lance the pin out and pay up for a new one before I tried to get the pin holding the arm to the machine out, then try and support that thing in a press. haha
here is the screw .
So with the bolt instead of a zerk... the pivot is never greased. I wonder if welding a nut on the pin will let an impact wrench turn the pin loose. Seems the pin is either frozen to the rod or the ears. Not both since the stabilizer rotates the pin through its arc. Any body ever try it ?
Its frozen to the ears. I wonder if you are supposed to take that bolt out, put a zerk in, grease, then replace the bolt? I'm sure that totally happened.....
I've had to cut a lot of outrigger pins, big zip disc, carbide sawzall blades or one some real sloppy ones I've put a 14" hot saw in there lol.
Billrog reminded me how I got the pin out of my outrigger. Penetrating oil and knocking the pin in one direction, then the other. Tiny movement at first, then larger. The rust expands and trying to move in one direction builds a wedge. Reciprocating motion combined with oil spreads the rust out.
They probably decided that pin doesn't move enough to justify a grease fitting, or grease actually wore it faster. And it's not wore out is it? Like hosspuller said, if you can get it to move, it will move back and forth, and you can get it out. If you can't get it to move, you need more force, or rebuild it just the way you are. Smooth those scrapes and forget about it, they'll get scraped again soon enough. Building a pin driving animal could be the solution, like a 2" pipe (or DOM) you bolt, strap, or weld in place, then machine a piston of ten to twenty pounds that fits the bore, then add a bead cheetah to the end of the pipe?
If you are not going to take the cylinder off, I would suggest using a angle die grinder with the scotchlock pads (not the sandpaper pads) to clean and smooth the chrome. The secret is to remove all high points as they will cut the seals. Low points will not cut seals, but will allow small leaks over time.
There are a number of cases where John Deere, and other manufacturers choose not to lubricate as grease will hold grit & allow it to wear for a long time. These stabilizer feet don't see much motion & they are always in the dirt.
Now that the rod is out of the barrel I don't think the pin needs to be removed. IMHO. Out of curiosity I would drill that grease passage and see if the bushing actually has hole in it for grease. If it does, it might be possible to force oil in it with a port-a-power. I have seen it successfully done. A couple of times it required heating the rod eye and using the porta-a-power together.
I had an outrigger with a stuck pin recently. I first used penetrating oil and a sledge hammer with no success. Then I remembered I had bought a hydraulic gear puller from (harbor freight, did I say that?) for just cases like this. I think it's a ten ton. It worked great. I think it cost a hundred bucks. Hope this helps. This site has always helped me. It's great.
I've got a lot of those type pins removed in three pieces after slicing them with a thin grinding wheel, (.045). I made a small "chop saw" using a DeWalt 5" grinder with an electromagnetic base and using either 24VDC, or 12VDC from the vehicle's battery for power, it stays put. You pull on the handle holding the disc against the pin and it walks through it easy enough. Once you get the center out of the pin, not much force is required to break the stub ends free in the ears.
I had the same issuw w/ my Case superL. One side of the pine was siezed in the ear, the other was not. There was enough gap between the eye and the yoke that I could use my Stihl 14" cut off saw and cut the pin and remove 2/3 of it the put 1" bar thru the one ear and eye which centered it nice and drove it out with a large sledge.
My Stihl 14" hot saw would also be my choice also if a sledge didn't do the deed. Even if the gap is widened a little from the saw blade a couple of washers would fill it.
Welding a nut on the pin may work to turn the pin with an large impact wrench or breaker bar. The heat should at least break the rust at the welded side.
Someone else said this too I think. It’s actually a good idea and I half want to try it. Weld a large nut on it and use a 3/4 or 1” impact on it while pounding the other end
And The new pin came drilled w/ a grease zerk on the end. So now it can be kept lubed.
Well I put it back together today. So far so good. It was lazy before and would drift down over the course about about 2 days. Hoping that issue is corrected. It was also leaking oil out the end pretty bad. Confident that is fixed. Thanks again for all the help/ideas/conversation!
BBBBBut, did you get the pin out ????????? !! Inquiring minds want to know.
No. I decided not to mess with it. Just left the rod attached and lowered the barrel back on with a chain hoist. Honestly went better than I thought it would. I think if I need to get it out the 20 pound hammer plus the welded nut/impact would be the way to go though.
All this and no satisfaction of conquering a stuck pin?
Have you ever considered Buddhism? be at peace with the rust.
we call it, monday
If you don t need a pin, drill a hole in it as wide as possible and then spray a freezer inside
$ 50 here freeze up to -49C
No truer words have ever been posted on HEF ! Maybe Andy should be banned for not removing that dam pin !
Let s give give him another try.
Use biggest single flame torch you have. Heat center of the pin red hot, let it cool. Move to the other side, repeat.
He at least owes us beers! LOL
Haha, im down for buying you all a round. For sure. Actually would be fun. If someone has a 1" impact they will loan me I will try the pin. I'll even post video.
I learned about this in college thermodynamics otherwise known as heat beat and repeat
Make mine Cider or bourbon.
i would drill for a 3/8 bolt in the center of the pin and make a puller for it a piece of pipe and washer would work great
Get in line for your beer my friend. Andy screwed us on some satisfaction here! LOL
I hope I'm not the last one in the line !