I have popped up some similar threads in other areas of the forum. I am going to be picking up a Lull, Backhoe, Dump truck and trailer in the next few months and have been gathering advice as I borrow down the field and get ready to buy. I have been looking into mid and late 80's single axle dumps to tow the lull and backhoe and maybe some smaller material runs. The truck wont be on the road all too often so the creature comforts are not really needed. The most important thing will be towing the Lull (21k) on a 15 ton tag along safely. I dont care too much about speed, but I have a decent amount of hilly curvy roads around me so "grunt" will be needed. So far I have been looking into C60's, F800's, 6500's, International 4600's and other similar trucks. If anyone has experience towing with a set up like this and could give me some tips to narrow the field it would be greatly appreciated. Are air brakes a must or is hydraulic ok? Will some of these with gassers get the job done or should I stick to looking at the diesels? I am pretty much sold on a 5 speed with a split rear, but are there better or comparable options I should consider? Just a few examples of what I am trying to narrow down. Thanks for the advice Guys.
Go find a Mack R model
Just looked up a few Model R's on Craigslist. Looks like a really nice truck and there are a few at decent prices. What is it about the Mack that makes you recommend it over some of the others?
The old Mack r models take tremendous abuse and refuse to die.
I like the Ford L8000/L9000, make sure they have Cummins engines, not Ford engines I never owned older Macks, the replacements parts are hard to find in our area and very costly. air brakes on the truck, a must Make sure you have CDL's Good Luck
Thanks, I hadn't thought of those since I was originally looking below cdl as I wasn't planning on towing the lull. I am getting the permit in the next few weeks and have a buddy that has already volunteered to get me some seat time before the test.
like hardline says, they go forever. I have three R models here. One RD and two RB's. RB's sett up as quad axle dumps, the RD is a heavy haul tractor. I been running Macks since I started out in 1989 and love um to death
You don't want anything with dayton wheels on it if you going to put it on the road.
Thanks guys, should be one step closer to the purchase tomorrow night. I am still looking around on craigslist and also am going to throw out some local feelers shortly.
I find this to be an interesting comment as open wheels are far easier to field service or change than Budds,ball seat or hub pilot.I've been trucking since 1966 and although all my tractors,tri-axles and most of the trailers now run on Budds,I never had a Dayton crack like Budds have. I will admit it does take a bit of patience and experience to get them on true though.
i have an '88 ford f-800 w/ a ford 7.8 and I love it... its an older truck but a good one.
Amen on the Macks. You can stick any dummy in them off the street and they can't tear them up without lots of effort.
True.....Their triple countershaft transmissions and double reduction rears are very tough. A 237 0r 300 Maxidyne would be way more than enough to do what he wants and should last a longtime.
I have been looking for the Macks on Craigslist. They dont seem as common as other trucks like the Fords. Also when I do see them it is normally a model B not R. Might be a testament to how well they last that not as many people are getting rid of them. Still lurking around craigslist and forums for a few more weeks before I actually get out there and start making offers.
I think your problem is going to be finding a single axle versus a full screw R-model. I still see plenty of tandem R- models out on the road in the Ct area. Have you considered a single axle KW or Pete? There are more of them out there for cheap money with good CAT and Cummins power. They are much more comfortable and rust free than a Mack,plus air ride would be great for hooking and unhooking to your tag along. BTW/Don't think for a minute that air ride is a problem with a dump truck.Since I stopped running Macks back in the 80's,air ride KW's are all I run for my tri-axles,tractors and dump trailers.
Got Daytons on all three of mine 250C as well as lowboy. No problems with them.
I think it is mostly a style/preference thing. Both have served me well........Budds crack from hole to hole and even fall off the truck if not tightened and Daytons will wobble or spin if loose or tightened improperly.The big thing though is anyone with a breaker bar and an 1-1/4" socket can change a Dayton wheel by the side of the road if need be. Doing that with a Budd,particularly a ball seat Budd can be a different matter which usually means a call to the tire guy. Not really what a backyard operator needs when it comes to additional expenses in today's tough economy.
agreed on the R-model macks. I have an 80 and love it. 5spd, turned up pump, straight pipe...Not to mention the old Macks just look awesome.
GMC brigadier (sp?), detroit motor (prefer 6-71), 9 speed road ranger. Can run those things for pennies and they just won't die.
I hope this is true, because I just purchased a single axle 86 Brigadier with a turo charged Detroit a few months ago to haul dirt and tow a skid steer, trying to start a small excavating business. I have had people tell me that they are bad on gas and nothing but trouble, but I like it. http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=dxoc5v&s=6 http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=fl8tn6&s=6
The detroits are not the best on fuel but there simple motors and any old time diesel mech. can rebuild them for pennies. You have to drive those trucks like your mad at them. rev them till they sound like there going to explode and then grab another gear.
Don't pay any attention to those saying steer clear of Dayton wheels.They are much more durable and capable of carrying heavier loads than disc wheels, either stud or hub piloted. All you have to worry about is having the proper wedges and spacers. They are not all interchangeable. They are, as stated above, much easier to service than disc wheels, and only require around 275 ft./lbs of torque, which is easily achieved with a good 1/2 in. drive impact or breaker bar. Disc wheels need in the neighborhood of 400ft./lbs. As far as the screamin' Detroits, they're called that for a reason. They are 2 cycle engines which, just like gasoline 2 cycles, have to run max RPM to achieve power. Stretch the ol' rubber band real tight and get 'er done. That truck should give you a good reliable start for your business, and years of service. Best of luck to you. As far as truing the wheels, it ain't rocket science. Just look at the rim edge(steer)or wedge(duals)in relation to the end of the spoke when first installing the nuts & wedges and you'll be real close. Then just use your toes as a reference, spin it and watch the run out, then adjust by tightening where there is more run out. It's really very, very simple if you have even half an ounce of common sense and very little mechanical aptitude.
Let me add a couple of precautions to servicing Dayton wheels. First of all, when removing from the vehicle, first loosen the nuts so they are away from the wedges but still fully threaded on the studs.Then, smack the rim with a hammer to break the wedge free. The reason for not removing the nuts completely is that there is a certain amount of kinetic(stored) energy in the wheels being wedged onto the spokes, and the sudden release of this energy(breaking the wedge)can send the wedges themselves shooting out like bullets. Keeping the nuts threaded onto the studs prevents them from becoming projectiles. As far as that goes, if there is enough energy the outer wheel itself can come flying off if the nuts are removed before breaking the wedge. I have personally seen a man KO'd by just such an occurrence.( He would not listen when I warned him over and over.Guess he figured he was older than me so that made me less knowledgeable). Second, while the rims are removed from the spokes, take the time to wire brush the spokes(this will ease the task of re-installing them), especially the back edge where the rims seat up.If there is a build up of crud here, the rims will come loose as heat and centrifugal force cause the crud to crumble and dissipate, leaving the wheels under torqued and causing them to spin. As far as that goes, the face of a disc wheel should ALWAYS be wire brushed before being installed as well, otherwise you are torquing against the crud, and when it crumbles away the wheels are loose. This is far and away the number one cause of disc wheels cracking between stud holes.