Hey guys, Has anybody here ever built a motocross track? I responded to a craigslist ad the other day where the guy was looking for someone to build him a motocross track on one acre of his land out in the country. In our initial conversation, the first question he asked me was "have you ever built a motocross track before?" My response was "no". His second question was "do you own your own equipment?" My response to that was "yes". The closest thing I have ever done like this was to push and crown a 8' X 600' walking and go kart trail through the back 3 acres of my own property. Now, we have not met face to face yet. We are supposed to get together with his partner and look at the property this afternoon. From our conversation (by text only so far) I am getting the idea that he wants a small track with a few humps and bumps so that his kids can practice riding. One of the things he said it the ground was flat and they couldn't afford to bring in dirt, could we scrape up enough dirt from the track itself to make the jumps. I told him yes, but that it would create low places that would likely flood when it rains. When I said this, I was thinking about cutting the track down and using that dirt to build the jumps. Last night it hit me that I could leave the track high and take dirt from around the track to build the jumps. He would still have a flooding problem but at least the track would drain and stay relatively dry (less erosion of the track). Depending on how the land drains, I may be able to put in some strategically placed culverts and minimize the flooding issue. Please understand that when I first contacted him on Sunday, I knew nothing about motocross tracks, their design or construction. Today (Tues morning) I am an internet expert . The first thing I need to figure out is if it is feasible for me to build such a track with my equipment. I have a largish skid steer on tires with a fair variety of attachments (standard bucket, grubber, rake, 6 way dozer blade etc.) and I also have a 70 hp 4wd farm tractor with a front end loader, box blade, chisel plow, and disk harrow. If necessary, I have access to things like dozers and excavators from my local rental place. I would rather not rent additional equipment unless absolutely necessary. The other thing that concerns me is liability if somebody gets hurt on the track I built. Motocross looks like fun to me but it also looks like an accident waiting to happen. Especially when little kids are involved. While I need the work and I think it would be a fun and interesting project, I may walk away from this one because of the liability. I would like the hear your thoughts and ideas about a project like this, Tim
Yes. I ride motocross, and have built my own track on my property. The first thought that entered my mind when reading your post was the liability issue. I don't even let my close friends ride on my track. Motocross is very dangerous and people get hurt all the time. I would be leary, unless you clear it up with lawyers/paperwork. That being said, I would not attempt to build an actual motocross track with just a skid steer. Proper tracks are built with dozers and large wheel loaders. The most common method of aquiring the dirt is either trucking in (not an option here) or building a pond. The pond method then allows for watering of the track which will be a must. With all of this being said, this information is for how a "proper" track is built. If the customer is just looking for some bumps to jump, that is an entirely different story. Check out dirtwurx.com. They are the professionals. Hope this helps.
Thanks Joel59, I have looked at dirtwurx and several other sites for tips on how to go about this. Yeah as I said in my original post, libility is a big factor as to weather I even try this or not. Certainly a visit with a lawyer is in order. Thank you for the pond idea, that may provide enough dirt for the jumps and whoops. If it is a fair question, how many acres does your track cover and about what is the length and average width of the track. The commercial tracks around here are built on about 5 acres or so and are 3000' - 4500' long and average about 20' wide. As I said in my original post, this guy has about an acre to work with. Thanks, Tim
I to see the liability issue. I raced dirt bikes until I was 48 and the question that comes to mind is what is he looking at. An outdoor motocross track, super cross style, a more moderate track for beginning kids. I personally like to still jump on a bike and go play on an evolution class track. But then some of the 12 year old kids today are jumping doubles that scares the hell out of me.. That said I would not try to build one without at least a decent dozer. A good contract with elevations and profiles of jumps is what it will take to keep you in the clear. Anything else could result in a lawsuit because you could not prove you didn't build it sharper or taller than they wanted.
Yes there is the liability issue. The equipment size issue. And the ive never built or have competed in a sanctioned moto event. I personally have done it all at a pro am level and built many large 40+ acre tracks. I subcontracted to race production company and did their sitework for a few years. I would not recommend you take this on and expect a good result. There is literally millions of variables, angles, pitches, apexes, round things, drainage issues, safety issues that you are not aware of. Then again work is work, get a iron clad contract put together aka talk to a legal professional. If the landowner knows exactly what they want have it drawn up with distances and heights then build it to spec. On a side note that was some of the most challenging and funnest work ive done. From a racer in the seat of a dozer you let your imagination build what type of course the customer wanted to ride. The spec courses we not as fun.
I totally agree with what DoyleX said. Get a jump face or landing wrong, and you are in trouble. Been there and done that to myself many times. I built my track with a D6 dozer and that was still a lot of work. I constantly have to build obstacles and then try them out- and then change and adapt them. It is fun, but not something to try and do for a customer.
I have built about 4 tracks for mini riders when my kids started riding. As they progressed and need more jumps I started rounding up old culverts and big pipes to help start building jumps and landings. A lot depends on the type of dirt you have and how you compact it. It takes lots of dirt to build a table top. I was using a JD 450C, a Case 90xt with VTS tracks and a Bobcat 843. So much depends on your customers terrain and if they want a natural style or supercross style track. Drainage is very important so you can't just push up a pile of dirt for a jump and leave a big hole that will collect water. I was building tracks on a family farm and I was alway running out of dirt. Dirtwurx has some great track info. I have seen some other sites that show departure and landing angles with info on much base fill it takes to create these jumps. This is my experience about safety no matter where you build it or how many no trespassing signs you post the word will get around there is a track and others will come ride on this track uninvited. A lawyer told me it was like having a swimming pool and it is the owners job to keep others out and if an accident occurs the owners of the property will be held liable.
Here you go, this guy built one in two minutes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfKsx-WiBIU
Ok guys, thank you for your insights. Besides my not having the right equipment for this project and my inexperience in the design and construction of a motocross track, but mostly due to the liability involved I have decided to pass on this project. Also, after waiting all day to meet with these yahoos, the guy sends me a text tonight and asks if I have any idea what I would charge to build him a track . I told him "NO" I need to see the land and find out what you want before I can answer that. Then he sends me another text that says "I am hoping to get it done for a couple of hundred dollars, it's just a small track." I guess I should be grateful that I didn't spend a lot of time surveying the property and designing the track before he told me what his budget was. Again, thanks for your assistance. Tim
$200.00? He needs to get out there with a shovel and get busy!!!
I'd be in at 500 for a small kids tracks to play on but that's it and it would have to be local. I worked on some tracks before and with the track machine it's easy stuff in my eyes
Since when I am working by the hour, I charge based on the hours on the clock. I also add a mileage charge. As a general rule, I have a 1/2 day minimum or I don't roll my equipment. Exceptions to this rule might be something like doing a favor for a friend or a neighbor. $200.00 would not meet my minimum. That said, the reason I backed out of this project is because of the liability. I am afraid I could be held responsible for anything that happened on that track forever. Grit, the shovel idea may well be his best option .
I don't know about building a track for someone else..but I lent my friend my machine to build a track at his house for his kids who race..I know he does have people over to use it..His biggest problem has been the fight with the neighbors now..If you were going to do it, I'd probably check with a lawyer also, however, I'd have the person sign a waiver releasing you of all the liabilities if someone does get hurt..They have those waivers for everything anymore and he has to sign them for his kids when they go to tracks. Here are some pics of the track he was building. It was a smaller track for like pit bikes I think, but it worked..This track was on maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 acre of his property.
Thanks for sharing that Jsinpa, That is a pretty cool track and it wouldn't take long to build something like that with just a skid. It is similar to the walking/go kart track that I built out behind my place a few years ago except without the humps and bumps. Tim
No problem Tim. It is a pretty cool track. It was a weekday after work and weekend project. It didn't take that long and we did it all with my skid you see there. The only thing I wish was I would have had teeth for on the bucket which would have made it easier. Basically, we just took the top off, basically the top soil then used all of that to build the jumps..we used the machine and a 4-wheeler to help pack it down. Plus we did a few test runs to check on them and fix what needed adjusted before anyone was allowed on it.
jsinpa, how long is the track? about how many hours of skidsteer time did you have in it? Was there a lot of hand work or were you guys able to do most of it with the skid? Tim
I'll find out how many hours are in it. I wasn't there the whole time it was being done. I can tell you that it was all done with the skid steer..The final touches we did was use a 4x4 drug behind the 4-wheeler to level some of it out..like how your see them do it at baseball fields around the diamond..I'll get back to you with more details tonight here..
jsinpa, thanks man Tim
I have been riding dirt bikes my whole life and still do. So naturally I've built several tracks. My first impression of track building is it is a ton of work. More than you could ever imagine. You will hate it by the end of a 12 hour day or two. I've never really made much money because it was usually at somebody's place I knew. If I did charge for a full track, I would think $10,000 would be fair. I've built them with 953's double teaming up with a 650 dozer, Bobcats, a 939, etc. and it's so much work. If you are not under pressure and the equipment can sit around at the property and you can create at your own pace then that can be a blast making unique turns, berms, rollers, etc., or if you were getting several thousand dollars to do it. I've also learned you need your bike and gear when building a track. You can build something and then ride it and will be way too small, slow, or dangerous. Also learned building wide tracks can be a waste for personal use because you usually just use one line. If you go back to a track you built after a month or two it will be rough and ugly if not maintained. Dust is a huge factor too. You need a jobsite water truck and a water source for sure. It the land is cleared and rolling hills you could create one pretty fast. Just gives me a headache thinking about it all. I did learn to jump pretty big on my property by building a big table top and then I kept stretching it out and then cut the dirt out of the middle to make it a gap. My good friend then cased it and broke his foot and he even taught me how to ride back in elementary school. Also built some jumps once and a guy broke his wrists on them. I still have the old layout out back but it's so much work to rebuild that I just can't find time. Motocross is so dangerous and those who do it have my respect. I prefer the off road.
Interesting comments fastdirt. I found an estimated range of $6,000-$15,000 to build what I assume is a full sized track. Most of the commercial tracks I looked at were built on 4-6 acres and that did not include space for parking, restrooms, concessions or any of the rest of those things that you need for a successful commercial operation. I believe I found that on the DirtWurks website. I don't think $200.00 is going to get him very far. Thanks for sharing your experiences, Tim
sorry but i deleted my post as i decided it would be wise to wait untill after the court ruling and mechanics lien and judgments etc. are in place as court is in 2 wks, but yeah i worked on one for a little while till the guy went broke ( never had a dime to start with). I can comment that this was supposedly going to be a 4 minute professional track with RV sites etc. and the track alone was estimated about $100k pj
First red flag, "no dirt brought in". I am a mechanic. I have ridden four wheelers since I was 8. That said, I would never even think about starting a project my self or having someone do it for less than a couple of grand. I always joke that I wont get out of bed for less than $100. This guy has no idea what your time and tractor are worth!
Yeah, you are quite correct. This is funny because in one of his first texts to me he asks "Do you have your own equipment? ours is out of town." Tim
Tim, thats nuts....if he wants you to do it for a couple hundred forget it...a day's rental on a machine is $300-$500...closer to the five if you have it delivered and picked up...not to mention if the guy has equipment but its out of town...then why doesn't he just go rent some? Now, as far as how long it took for ours...i would say a couple of weeks..but that is because it was working an hour at night here and an hour at night there...mind you, those jumps weren't very tall, maybe 2' at most...maybe a 3' here and there...we didn't have some monster table top or anyone like you would see at real tracks...
Thanks jsinpa, Sounds like you may have had 10-15 hrs of skid time in the project. If I was going to spend that much time on a customers project it would cost him $750-$1125 plus a haul charge to get the machine (s) to and from the jobsite. As I said, I have not (and will not) seen the property that this guy was talking about. However, my guess is that at least some clearing will need to take place before a track could be made therefore running the costs up further. If you (any of you guys reading this thread) were going to do a project like this, would you completely clear the land of all trees and shrubs or would you leave some to keep it visually interesting? All of the tracks I have looked at online (remember, I am an internet expert ) and the one commercial track I have seen up close and personal were completely cleared. A few trees would make it more interesting but also more dangerous I would think. Just for grins I mapped out what I thought might be a cool kids practice track within the boundaries of a square acre in Draftsight (cad program). I came up with a 931'X10' track with a borrow pit/pond in the center. I haven't played with putting any jumps or obstacles in it yet. It is an interesting exercise. If I get some time I may add a few obstacles here and there and post the design here for critique. Tim
Tim, I took a few pics today to try to get you a full view of the track. I can tell you this, it is no where near the size you had mentioned above. That is a pretty big track your talking about. I'll download the pics tmrw from work. For some reason, I cant seem to get them from my laptop here at home. I'm thinking the one we did is probably more like maybe 300'. All the stuff you mentioned above, with the CAD program, is that for this guy or for you? Never heard of draftsight, we use Autocad at our office. Btw, nice L190!! Mine is an LS180....thinking of going to one of the newer Cases...like an Sr220 (tested one out) or SV250...I like mine, bought it used at a good price with 2850hrs on it in 2012, but I wanna get rid of before too much goes wrong...its got 3121hrs on it and now they said I have a slight leak..it a $10 part, but apparently its in the gear on the right side and they'd have to pull the trans, axle, etc to get into the drivecase just to get to the damn thing...$1200 in labor they told me! ugh.
jsinpa, thanks for taking the pictures. I look forward to seeing them. I think I must just have too much time on my hands. The track I am drawing is just an exercise for me. This thread has gotten my curiosity peaked about the elements that go into a fun, safe (as possible) moto cross track. I am hoping some here with some real experience either riding, designing or building tracks will chime in. I am not looking to get into the business as I think the liability is to great for me. I will most likely stick to light demo and land clearing. This machine is the third NH skid that I have owned and by far the nicest. The cab with AC is great down here in these hot Texas summers. The first two were an LX565 and a LS170. Both nice machines but a little light in the shorts for land clearing. Draftsight is a 2D cad program that has a command structure similar to AutoCad. I cut my teeth on ACAD. The program is free for download and it has a version that works on a Mac which I use. It is put out by Dassault Systemes. They are the Solid Works people. The transition for ACAD was fairly painless and it is good enough for my needs. It reads and writes .dwg and .dxf files. The downside is you have to renew the license every 6 months. Tim
Tim, ah ok on the Draftsight....I do like Autocad and it is definitely helpful, but as long as whichever program you use gets the job done, that is what is important. Well, since you do land clearing then maybe you can help me out then..looking to maybe get into some of that around here..how do you like it for that? Any pros/cons with the machine for land clearing? I've heard some people say certain machines aren't as good for that type of stuff. What attachments do you have or use for it? The main reason I may make the switch to the Case is because I've come to find out the NH dealer around here is up there on their prices..Don't get me wrong, they are a great dealer, but from what I've been told lately, their a lot more expensive with stuff too..as I've been finding out. I've been seeing I can get a better deal on the Cases with a dealer here verses the dealer that has NH.Plus its now CNH, so I figured why not look at them..Oh, and I found out this morning, its the parking brake housing that has a seal leaking on mine. Apparently, you have to tear damn near everything out to get to the thing. its the labor to do it which is apparently costs so much..They told me its a full day's labor to do it for a lousy $10 seal..As my buddy says, big trucks/big machines big bucks... So here are the pics...hopefully this gives you a better idea. I did find out some other things. I didn't realize it at first but to do the jumps, he had some mulch trucked in to help build better jumps. It got mixed in the with dirt and then to help keep the dust down, all through the track. It actually does help believe it or not. Josh
Tim, sorry, same pic twice...here is the other one Josh
Thanks for the pic's jsinpa, that is a cool little track. Good to know about mixing the mulch with the dirt for the jumps. Looks cold there . Here is the drawing I said I would post. Just the basic layout, no jumps or other obstacles yet. Here are a couple of pics of my machine with my land clearing tools on: Tim
Ha, it was I think in the 30's-low 40's yesterday maybe when I took those. That felt warm compared to how the rest of the winter has been! Like I said, its not a real big track, and the drawing you posted is definitely a lot bigger! That is definitely a good idea with the pond there, so you can wet it down it need be. Go big or go home with that size track, lol. Ok, so what are those attachments? Not familiar with them. The first one just looks like a rake or like it was part of some type of grapple bucket. I'm assuming the 2nd is for getting at roots? Looks like you already have a good circle lane in that 2nd pic to use for part of the track. ha... Josh
That circle is my driveway . I wish I could take credit for the pond idea but another poster on this thread came up with that idea. I would think the pond would save some money as you would have to truck in less dirt for jumps and such. Also, as you say, it will provide a ready source of water for keeping the dust down and the track damp. For maintenance purposes you could probably use a 4 wheeler and a small water tank to keep the track damp for dust control. The first picture is of a rake that I built last year to clean up brush and roots that I grub out. It is similar to (and modeled after) a rake like you might find on a dozer. Of course it is smaller and the tines are spaced closer together so you leave less debris. The down side is that it can pick up a lot of dirt if you engage the ground with it. It was not meant to be a root rake. When I am using it I try to just scratch the surface of the ground. That seems to give me the best balance between the amount of debris and dirt that I rake up. The second picture shows a sheeps foot grubber. We have a lot of mesquite here which can be difficult to get out. You have to get the root out or it will grow back with a vengeance. This tool engages the tree 12"-16" below the ground. If the moisture content of the ground is just right and the tree is not too big, you can lift the tree tap root and all out of the ground in one swipe. This works well for trees up to 5'-6' tall. Larger trees usually require cutting the root runners around the tree with the grubber and then lifting the tree out. It takes a little more time to do but it's still a pretty efficient way to clear mesquites. The nice thing about this tool is that you can see where it engages the tree from where you are sitting in the cab of the skid. This allows you to do the work with less ground disturbance than with other methods. Tim
pretty nice....interesting pieces...it just goes to show the differences in areas/locations of the country...around here, you need brush/bush hogs and those mulchers, which from videos I've seen are pretty badass. I want one now, lol..or you use a stump grinder..you really want the roots out, plan on a backhoe or excavator and chainsaws...
jsinpa, if you have trees to clear you might want to give the sheepsfoot grubber a try. I think they are available at most equipment rental places. A lot of trees will die if you cut them off at ground level or a little below. This is ok if you don't need that root out. A mulcher or tree shears will do a fine job. There are times that the roots need to come out as in the mesquites won't die if you don't get the root out or if you are going to put the land into ag production or food plots. I too have wanted a mulcher for my skid. From all the reading I have done about them it is clear to me that to be effective you have to attach them to a machine with Hi Flow Aux Hydraulic. Mine skid does not have hi flow. Tim
Tim, something I'll have to look into then...I think it may be better to get a machine with Hi Flow on it since I'm going to sell mine and get a newer machine...do you have a grapple bucket as well? let me ask you..what or how do you typically charge for land clearing? I have a few people that want me to do some for them..not sure how to charge for it..
I too have some land clearing to do on my own place. I was going to purchase a root grapple to do the job, but i had also been looking at the stump bucket grapple as an alternative. The stump bucket grapple looks like it would be more capable of uprooting saplings and small trees. Most of what I need to remove are sapling and small trees less than 5 inches in diameter. I have a 50/50 mix of hardwoods to pine in a semi compact sandy loam. I also have quite a few old tree stumps that need to come out and smaller trees that have been cut near the base. I also have many piles of brush and cut trees/logs from chainsaw work that I need moved from one place to another. I'm thinking I can get all of this done more efficiently with a stump bucket grapple vs a root grapple. The only thing I think the root grapple would excel at more would be brush carrying and cleanup type work, but most of my work will be ground work uprooting saplings and smaller trees. Do you guys think a stump bucket grapple would suite my needs better than a root grapple? And could I use the stump bucket grapple to clean up debris that is on the floor?
Garrett, as I've been looking into them, I didn't realize how many different grapple buckets there were, especially after looking at quick attach's website. Have you checked out their website? Some of the descriptions of each style, almost make them sound like they can do the same things...I know for me, I want to get the most versatile one so it has as many multiple uses to it that I can use...At least from what I have seen on their site, I looked at the following models: Eagle Talon, EZ Grab, Quick Claw, and the Quick Clear... I think that maybe the Eagle Talon looks to be the most versatile and could possible do everything you are looking for...not sure on the prices from them...and I'm going to shop around to see if I can find other brands as well. If you find out any others, let me know. Josh
Josh, I'll sure do that. Thanks!
jsinpa, I charge by the hour. I have set a rate that allows me a fair return on my investment in my skid loader plus labor and a profit margin. I also charge a $/mi rate to deliver and pick up my machine from the jobsite. That includes a fair rate of return for my truck trailer and operating expenses plus labor and profit margin. These are things that only you can figure out for yourself. they are based on variables that are known only by you. The other side of the equation is figuring out how long a job is going to take you. This comes through experience. I tell my customers that I will happily give them an estimate but that the real charges will based on how much time I have in the job. Some customers will insist on a firm price before you start, that is ok but I try to protect myself when estimating the time the project will take. Here are links to two threads that I started last year on this forum that dealt with how to price land clearing: HeavyEquipmentForums I got a lot of great responses and help with my project. Hopefully it will give you some insights into the land clearing business using a skid steer. Tim
Garrett, I think the stump bucket (or stump grapple) would work well for grubbing out trees and stumps. I don't thing it would be very good for picking up brush and roots that have already been grubbed. I used a grapple bucket similar t the one shown here http://www.quickattach.com/shop-by-department/attachment/grapples/products/saber-tine/ only the tines were spaced a little closer on the one I used (rented). I liked this one better that the Talon style http://www.quickattach.com/shop-by-department/attachment/grapples/products/eagle-talon/ because there were two independent grapples as opposed to one. In my experience the loads of debris and brush that I pick up are rarely even across the bucket. Having tow independent grapples allows you to grip the load better. Since I already have the my grubber, I would choose the grapple bucket for my next purchase. Tim
Thanks, Tim. I guess I should just stick to my original plan of getting a root grapple and just leave it at that. The stump bucket grapple would probably just dig up more dirt than I would like anyway. The spaced tines on the root grapple would let dirt fall back down between the tines and onto the ground. Less disturbance the better. I figure I can get the shortest one (what is it 60"?) and that would concentrate more force into a smaller area and giving it a bit more strength as well. And it should be plenty wide to work as a rake and for picking up debris, too. Now it's just finding the right one!
Hey Grit, Check out Palletforks.com . I haven't used or seen any of their equipment up close and personal, but their prices look pretty good. Tim
I'll do that, thanks!
Garrett & Tim, I liked that Eagle Talon from quick attach as well...the nice thing about it is, the teeth are replaceable, which is great in my eyes. Garrett, after I had posted my response to you, I had called quick attach and asked them about it. It sounds like a great grapple, but it was $5K or more for the Eagle Talon! For me, I don't do enough of this stuff to justify spending that. I did find other ones for half the price of that one.. Tim, are you saying you like the grapples better with two independent grapples better? Because the Eagle Talon model is one grapple the whole way across...or am I missing something.. I did do some more research on grapple buckets and there are ump teen hundred manufacturers...so any ideas on what I should particularly look at to decipher the differences between manufacturers? Josh
jsinpa, I prefer the grapple that has two independent claws. Mainly because I feel that uneven loads are gripped better in that type of grapple. I have used two clawed grapple in the field before. To be fair I have not used the single claw grapple like the Talon. I don't have a preferred manufacturer. Price is very important. Unfortunately it is not always easy to do a side by side comparison of various manufacturers attachments. For example, a few years ago I had a rather sudden need for a 6 way dozer blade. I had a few thousand feet of trench to cover. I checked with my local dealer who could get me one made by a major manufacturer. I found one on Ebay for a little over half the price from an unknown manufacturer. I ordered the cheaper one because, well it was cheaper. I could also get it a week earlier and the manufacturer put the flat faced connectors and charged it with hyd fluid for me. He also shipped it right to my job site. Turned out that the blade was very well built. I have had it for 8 years or so and used it hard. I have built ranch roads and cleared right of way with it. As a general rule I would say compare the type of steel used and the weight of the implement. Compare the prices after shipping and taxes. Beyond that it's anybodys guess as to who's equipment is best. I just got a catalog in the mail from Quick Attach. Nice looking stuff and seems reasonably priced. I also ran across the PalletForks.com site Also nice looking stuff, reasonably priced and (if I read it right) $75.00 shipping anywhere in the US. Good luck in your search Tim
Tim, thanks for the input...I did like quick attach's stuff and like you, I look at price also...quick attach's stuff as least from the research is on the upper end as far as price...I've been looking into them more this weekend..the trouble is not all the manufacturers or their websites, list all the specific specs...That was going to be my next question, was about the steel...some use T-1 and some have other statements such as I think I read, 80,000 pound tensile strength..could be way off on that I..I looked at so many, ugh I googled log brush rock grapple buckets and went down to all the images link to check out all of the different ones...What I like about that eagle talon by quick attach is the replaceable teeth..The closest one I found that has that is this one... http://www.solesbeesequipment.com/skid_steer_rock_grapple.php The problem is it doesn't list what the cylinders are, like some do...ie are they 3,000lb hydraulic cylinders, etc...or what the steel is....I guess I'll be calling them tmrw to find out more.. Josh
That Solesbee grapple is a great looking tool. I too like the replaceable tips on the tines. I'll bet they are hardened steel of some sort. I didn't see any pricing on their website. If you call them, would share the price? Tim
Talked to them this morning and here is the info I got...The guy actually recommended the rake one verses the rock grapple..he said they sell more of the rake than the grapple..its like 90/10...90% on the rakes to 10% on the grapples http://www.solesbeesequipment.com/skid_steer_rock_grapple.php http://www.solesbeesequipment.com/skid_steer_grapple_rakes.php Basically said, the rake has the curved tines at the bottom verses the grapple being flat on the bottom, I said, yes, but with the teeth on there, you should not have a problem with the rock grapple as far as digging in. The other difference is the spacing between the tines..the rock grapple is 4 7/8" verses the rake being like 8" spacing..The other thing he told me was the steel is 572..which I think he meant a572??? according to him, that is stronger or a little better than T-1..I'm not too familiar with steel in general as far as rating or what not, so I'm not sure on that..they also use 2 3000lb cylinders like most other and the tines are 1/2" thick...Price...they are the same price..$2400 plus shipping...which to me would be like around $175....they are out of GA... what are you thoughts? Is it better to get the rake style with the larger spacing? or the rock grapple with closer spacing which will pick up the smaller stuff also? Let me know what you think.. Josh..
Josh, Only you can decide which grapple is best for you. It will depend on what you are trying to do with it. If you are going to use it mostly for uprooting and raking brush into piles then a root rake is probably right for you. The tines will engage the ground better and will have a better chance of pulling up roots. Also you will pile up less dirt with it due to the wider spacing of the tines. Unless your stumps are completely rotten I wouldn't count on a root rake on a skid steer pulling them up. That is what a grubber is for. On the other hand, I would use a grapple bucket more for piling up debris that is already laying on top of the ground. I already have a grubber and a rake so a grapple bucket would be used more in the lot cleanup/demo side of my business. I also like the narrower spacing of the tines for picking rocks ( something that I find myself doing quite often). As to the various steels that the manufacturers are touting, it is worth the time to look up the mechanical properties of each of these on the web. It is some interesting reading. Hope this helps, Tim
Thanks Tim!! I actually had posted a thread on these before I saw your response...do you think a 39" mouth opening is big enough??
Hey Josh, I saw the new thread. I think is is good that you did that as you will get some differing opinions. What I have offered is right for me and gleaned from my experience. It may not be right for you. There are a lot of talented guys on here with much more experience than me. I think 39" is probably enough. If you go with a rake, you might want to consider a narrower one rather than a wide one. Since the rake is definitely a ground engaging tool, the wider the rake is the harder it will be to push when you are going after roots. Say a 60" rake rather than a 84" rake. With a grapple bucket it doesn't matter as much since you won't typically have the tines in the ground very much if at all. I will be following the new thread with great interest. Tim
Tim... Just checked out your links to the land clearing posts...thanks! It does definitely help me out for sure!!! Now, all you have to do is post some pics for me on a before and after on what the heck mesquite land clearing looks like so I understand what it is lol
I have built over a dozen tracks. I used a 315 cat excavator, a 460 deere dozer, a haul truck and mini excavators....I would even load my equipment and travel for less than 5k for a decent size and featured track. It's allot of work to do it right and drain it properly. The bigger job/track was 27k complete. Good luck on your first build, it's harder than most people think to do a quality track that's is drained and exciting to ride....many things to consider
Pafarmer....good to know the price range on these things...and your set up with equipment is definitely better for building one. The one I showed was just a small little back yard track at my buddies house...Now if we are talking about the size you are doing, then I'll be calling you. Where are you at in Pa, btw...
I'm in Northeastern, Pa. And would be more than willing to help you out...a simple PM here would get my attention.
thanks pa...if somehow I end up getting sucked into doing a large one sometime, I'll definitely be in touch..