I got a single axle that developed some holes in the frame by the helper spring stops on the rear axle. It's not a daily driver I use it a few times a month to move equipment. Now I know guys will run a double frame to the back of the cab and the frame will crack because it flexes there. I was thinking to just run another c channel from tje back to the front of the rear leaf shackle and taper it down after so its not a straight rigid frame on that one spot. Will this work or no? If not what's the best way to repair it. Changing frame rails is not an option I just don't have the time and if I was going to do that I may as well just buy another truck. If that will work, my main question Is how do guys do this or even a fishplate because if I go inside, I would need to cut the crossmember to shorten it so the rails will fit. If I go outside, how do I move the leaf springs further out without moving the seating on the axle housing?
Will end up with a cracking weak mess if do not use Quality steel formed into a rail. Booger patching will last a short time but not as you are looking to do as that will fail in short order. All you are asking of will end up cost prohibitive and destroy the use of the truck. Best Choices, 1)find a existing Used rail not destroyed in a salvage yard cut down and redrill, 2)buy a new rail and drill accordingly, 3) buy a truck you will not be overloading with whatever equipment you are hauling as this sounds as a Overload concern to suspension GVWR. Spring seats on the banjo housings if not welded are dowel pin located, would have to weld up and redrill housing if pinned, if no pin cut away existing welds and can move out slightly but not all that much or will interfere with some aspect of running gear. If not enough time to repair right then buy another truck, if that is cost prohibitive you are working too close to failure level.
Developed holes? As in frame rot? Personally I'd chop the problem area out, weld in new rails and sleeve the repair. Double frame is just a patch if the original frame is rotten.
A second thought on this, Some state DOT departments require a DOT Inspect on repairs as this to certify soundness of repair, caught uninspected and failed can lead to some serious coin being dropped legally. A Certified Welder could be a significant requirement.
The Frame is actually in really good condition it's just small holes where the salt sat I guess on the spring stops so there's 3 or 4 small holes. The flange is still in good condition which if the main strength. I'm not overloading the truck I just want to reinforce that back section. I hardly ever haul anything with it and I only pull a backhoe and small excavator the hitch weight is not much.
What type/brand of truck is this for starters?
My Buddy Adeel will show you how it’s done. Don’t you fuss.
It's an international single axle. Short truck, not a long span like some single axles. I pretty much just pull a trailer with it not haul so there isn't a lot of flexing on the frame like there would be hauling. Not that a single axle flexes much anyway I only carry 7 or 8 tons usually if I do pick up stone. I do plan on buying a triaxle in the spring or summer so I'm not counting on a repair like this to last for 20 years. Just somthing to feel a little better about until I get another truck. I know some people are saying to have someone cut and weld new frame on, but in my experience from what I seen that's usually not a good idea. I don't ever weld or drill truck frames. That's just me can't saying it can't be done
Bondo and undercoating spray. Seriously.
We need some pictures, Vadim17. So we know how much spray we will need.
Lol I was gonna bondo the holes just for dot purposes. I guess I'm wondering how much strengh is lost. Anyone who works with beams knows the flange is the most important section of beam. If you look at the construction of a lot of say 35 or 50 ton lowboys, you'll notice they actually stamp out probably 60-70% of the web on the main rails to slide the beams through and only weld one side so a good chunk of the web isn't even there and they hold all that weight. So maybe bondo and just leave it? What you think
Maybe those Indian guys will fix it for me
That’s what I’m sayin’. Those guys are the best.
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So what's the general consensus. Bad idea to sleeve the rail? Or just leave it and forget about it
Several pitfalls to your concept. ALL the fasteners will have to be replaced to gain adequate thread engagement and eliminate all those already corrupted too far, major modifications to suspension to accommodate the wider frame dimension, as well Fifth wheel or hitch mount modifications. Next up Sleeve only encapsulates the corroding materials that will no longer be trackable as to further extension of damage leading to Surprise failure events, Sleeve itself will be prone to corrosion effects from tainted materials in contact with. Frame itself is still compromised, weight bearing is no longer to GVWR Specs and anything that occurs will be a bad day as these failures extend. Every Covered region of frame, behind hangers, against crossmembers around fasteners will also be corrupted to an extent where disturbing those regions will add fuel to the acceleration of said corruptions. Replacement of a Section of Single rail is not an option is the only proper method of repair here.
Well this doesn't have a trunion and all the things a bigger truck would have so getting 20 new bolts is not a big deal to me. I would have done it inside the rail not outside because then I would have only had to modified the cross membe opposed to the suspension. I think you're right though about corrosion. I think I will just leave it and run it.