Tractor #8735750, backhoe# 5254042 loader#5267930 . 1973...I think. runs enough to load on trailer,so far. Boom,dipper,bucket operate. Loader operates. It appears to have been greased regularly. Has a 36" bucket, replacing front tires before using. They hold air, just look to be as old as machine. Rears look better, 19.5x24(I think) Charging battery now. Started with a booster box. Got manuals for it. Ordered filters all around. Hope I can get use without rebuilding cyl. To be continued.
Nice, but 36 inch bucket is big. I'm looking for a 16 or 18 inch. Have a 24 and 36. If it's been sitting a while you can count on having to rebuild a few if not all cylinders.
I missed a pair of buckets-16" and 24". Wish I had paid more attention.
Nice! how many leaks does it have? Unless someone repacked the cylinders before you, you’ll likely be doing at least one or two yourself. I started restoring a 580se and bought cylinder kits one by one from various vendors. In hindsight I should have bought the entire set of all of them , in a high quality brand because soon I’ll have replaced them all.
i also just bought a 580B, it runs great and worked for some time but now if have no pressure on the shuttle, the oil lines make a loud whining sound. i have replaced the oil and found no filter in the canister so i installed one. any one ever have this problem, especially the noisy lines?
The hydraulics that run the bucket and backhoe are separate from the shuttle. Fill and dipstick for shuttle are at bottom of steering column, plug further back back is rear diff and main trans? Shuttle takes Hytrans. Rear takes 80 or 90weight gear oil. Hydraulics takes AW46 . Power steering can use Hytran also. There is a chart on this site with all this, I will see if I can find it.
Welcome to HEF, scotty Earl !
Left spindle had no bearings in it, got that sorted out. Drained hydraulic for attachments-milkshake-added new fluid and filter. Guess I will do this a couple more times in course of things.Changed air filter. Finally figured out how to get boom into transport position. Gonna need a battery Wiring is a mess, mostly old. A few random looking wires, guessing for lights at one time.
Do you need any of the manuals ?
I have a copy of service manual and operators manual, thank you.
After starting several times the starter decided to stop playing nice. Found one online,waiting on it. Had a fellow pressure wash it. Much easier to see leaks and such.
The wiring isn’t actually too complicated but you do have to print out the wiring diagram and the legend and spend time studying it. The service manual is very good documentation and these earlier machines have no electronics, just wires and simple switches. I will say , in my case it helped a lot to pull up the floor so I could see the wiring mess, replace missing switches , re connect wires , test circuits etc. Doing all that on my back looking up would have been impossible for me. I recently pulled up the floor and got these working: - clutch cut-out switches - backup alarm - ebrake alarm & ebrake Power washing off the machine helps a lot to get started with a restoration.
Starter died. Replaced it. Old girl starts easy. Figured out getting boom into transport position. Drained hyd oil and changed filter. It is full of milkshake. Hate to keep changing hyd fluid not sure how to clear up the fluid. Some pics cause everyone likes pictures.
Nice lookin hoe; the only way to clear the hyd. oil is to change it out with cheap oil until it clears up.
If you get the oil mostly clean, you could rent a filter cart to do a final cleaning. A filter cart will clean the oil and you can also get filters to remove water but the filters are costly so it's less expensive to change the oil first a time or 2 so you only need one set of filters.
Filters are expensive for the water they remove. You can dry oil by a combination of heat and: vacuum, air bubbling, centrifuge, etc. Get the oil dry, even if it takes draining, drying, refilling, and running repeated many times. Then change the oil if you want. Use the old oil for flushing until it's dry.
Gonna look into drying the oil.
Get a summer job digging about 1000 feet of hard trench, that'll scare the moisture right out of your oil. The fill caps/vents on top of the towers is the biggest option for water ingestion. Looks like you have the typical loader breaks/cracks/repairs caused by not working with that bucket leveling cylinder the right way.
I have all sorts of fun issues, when my starter starts getting slow, I'll pull the plug to drain the torque converter, it seems to collect some oil in the bottom of the housing, sometimes a fair bit. Then pull the starter out, pull the back off and degrease the brushes and the guts, this does the trick for another year.
Is the hydraulic reservoir in one of the loader frames? that makes it a little easier. I have a similar loader, I welded a water heater element to a pipe nipple and put that in place of the drain plug, then a small air compressor that is basically a refrigerator compressor with a steel line going to the bottom of the tank. Turn on that element and bubbler and let it run 12 hours, run the backhoe to mix the oil again, run another 12 hours or until the "steam" coming out goes down, repeat... More efficient on hotter days, or much more efficient if you drain the oil and do it in a better insulated container, like small cleaned out water heater tank. A refrigerator compressor will work great as a vacuum pump also, to suck the oil out of the reservoir so you don't have to handle it, or to lower the boiling point of water. I haven't done the vacuum route, if you run the water vapor through the pump it complicates things, air bubbling through the oil works good enough for removing the water. Don't do this in a transmission, the water vapor will just condense in the colder steel top. Insulate the top of a steel reservoir so the water doesn't all condense and fall back in. I suspect it forms an oil foam and insulates itself somewhat inside.
On that model the loader frame is the reservoir, both sides with a crossover line between them in two places. I think removing it then drying might work better, the air chamber in the frame would need heating to keep the condensate out. Nige had some great input that you can remove the visible water but there will still be some lingering behind, better but not perfect.
A filter cart will do the job. But, you cannot simply clean the reservoir oil. All of the cylinders in the system need to be cycled again and again until they have clean oil in them. Even doing that, how would you know when they are 100% clean ? A complete system flush is my preferred way to eliminate all the contaminated oil from the entire system. It may even be cheaper doing that then renting a filter cart.
Or you can blow a line, that does a fantastic job of evacuating the old fluid! I think the book procedure is removing all the hoses and cycling the cylinders by magic
Removing the oil and drying it absolutely will be more efficient getting the water out, but more work too. That's why a remove the hoses and cycle the cylinders isn't done, too much work. Putting the heating element and bubbler pipe in the frame lets you repeat it easily after every time you use the loader. It won't get all the water, but it can get enough of the water that it won't make a difference to these systems, or grossly contaminate the new oil if you change most of the oil.