I've laid down 10s of thousands of yards of gravel; bank-run, crushed, screened, all of it, but never had any experience with millings. Wondering what works best? We did a yard last week. Laid it out about 5" deep, water, water, more water, then vibratory roller for about 4 hours. It seems pretty good, just wondering if it can get better? Small lifts more preferable? Thanks
I tried tailgating some a few weeks ago and did not have enough gap for the bigger chunks. I have one more load to lay down there. I have the 120 and a 4' bucket to work it with, and those tracks. Love to have a dozer at my disposal. What I noticed is the summer heat will do more to consolidate it than anything. I suspect that smaller lifts and no water and roll it at the heat of the day.
I been told by a builder that level works alright but slope, the water washes it out.
I worked for MDT for over 20 years and learned with millings is that they need lot's of water when put down. We put them in our shop yards and what worked best was after laying down and rolling them we would spray the top with tack oil.
Tack makes sense.
How much at a time? 2", 3, 4, what ever did everyone decide was optimal? I have a customer that wants to cover over 16 acres, 5" deep. I figure that'll be close to 15k yds, and would like to get it as tight as possible.
When we did the shop yards it was 5 to 6 inches thick. But the key was the application of tack oil over them. It depends on the amount of traffic that is going to be on it. The thicker the better if the road or area is going to have heavy traffic.
You can use wood lignins as an alternative to tack oil to bind asphalt. Not sure how it compares cost-wise, but I'd have thought it was considerably cheaper than tack oil. I've used wood lignins as a dust suppressant, it works well in that application. Interesting study below, from 1980, on using wood lignins in asphalt as a means of cost reduction in asphalting. Heat, and heavy compaction makes for good results when using asphalt millings. https://rosap.ntl.bts.gov/view/dot/30215/dot_30215_DS1.pdf?
Only dealt with millings one time but we watered the hell out of it, beat it with a smooth drum 533E and it was summertime in AL so it was hot as hades. Put it down 4-6" thick and it's held up pretty well on a country access road for 10 years. I bet the addition of tack oil would really tighten it up.
The millings where much better when the milling machines were smaller as they produced millings with more fines. As the machines got bigger, they produce bigger pieces and less fines. The ideal millings are the one just fresh out the millers.
Yes the few times I could lay it back down right as it came off the grinder were best. If I was pushing up the pile the fresh stuff got really tight under the loader tires.
The asphalt millings have held up better than any of the different crusher runs I have laid out on our ranch roads, but they still washout on the steep hills. I have got most of the drainage worked out now so it is a lot better than it used to be. Asphalt millings are very hard to find around here. I was told our DOT changed some regulation where they basically had to be used in new road construction, practically removing them for private sale.
It gets quite hot here in FL. The millings roll out very well in the summer with a decent soak of diesel on them.
Depends on the mix. Some millings never pack again, while some become impossible to work with as soon as you run over them. You can tell when the truck dumps (fresh off the miller) you can see the pile slowly settle. It's gonna be sticky. Dot here use them on the road shoulder. We screen them a couple days before shouldering. If you leave the big junks, they will move and cause a hole over time. I do agree with the water. In some situations, a rubber tire roller does a great job. For the most part, I find it stinks, and would never have it in my yard, and I am one of those weirdos that likes the smell of 80/90
Here in the UK,you are restricted to around 150t in a private yard or track etc due to environmental issues. We certainly can’t use them in larger quantities as the Environment Agency will hit you hard if they catch you. We no longer accept them at any muck tips or recycling wash plants etc that I’m involved with. It’s a shame as it’s very good stuff
They repaved a section of highway near here by milling it up, reheating the millings, adding some oil and then laying it down as fresh pavement. It was one long train doing the work. It has been several years now and held up as well as any overlay.
Haul into asphalt yards here, millings are a major reuse material but can be bought pretty cheap as a spread load instead of plain quarry run. Oil keeps dust to nothing, driving over with heavy machines packs it up well enough to make less apt to displace. Tailgating can be problematic where run two to three links wider and a gear higher to spread in layer lifts. Can be hot oil added or over sprayed like chip and seal to get a tighter bind.
I was going to get some to build a road back into were i had scrap stockpiled but its been dry and i didnt do it.Would millings make a good base for a new road?
Millings are almost impossible to get here on any city, county, state or fed road resurfacing project. The contracts include a "credit" back to the gov't entity for the millings with estimated tonnages they expect to "recoup" on material. Private milling jobs are the only real source for any.
I got mine from a state highway job. The guy had a pit right in the middle of the job area and apparently they did not have room to haul that all back to the paver, so they are for sale. It's only about 4 miles from where I was using them. The pile is right on the edge of that circle track with the diagonal line though it and the tree in the NW corner. https://goo.gl/maps/8YCgP4K9nUSHdrD17
Our local quarry has millings in pile, sell them by the ton CHEAP
If you do it right it is pretty sweet some places it just not practical. If you do it wrong it will be better off with stone I would take recycled concrete over milling that got mixed with other materials.
I have used millings before and it’s 50/50 on spreading good. Crushed concrete has a better consistency for laying a road or driveway base for cost and hair. You can keep the millings in my opinion.
I have seen many a road spread with random millings, from big ugly chunks with paint still visible all the way to lots of fines that squirm under the tires of a truck. I always thought they looked like awful jobs and they always packed into beautiful rough asphalt-like surface after months, if spread thick enough. If spread thin, they fall apart pretty quick.
We seem to have a pretty decent mix of chunks and fines. There are some bigger chunks with a little paint once in a while, but after the dozer runs it out, it seems good. We also keep a box blade sliding around as the roller is going, and we are using a ton of water. The first site was about 3/4 of an acre, and we used about 35k gallons. We're working on packing another site today. I don't think we will get it done today........ I need another water truck. It takes 20 minutes to load, so if I want to do 15 loads, it's going to take 7 hours...
Appears AG Farm equipment storage yard.
In my experience, don't over work it, otherwise the fines settle and you get more of the larger aggregate on top, which doesn't compact as well.
Spoke to a Asphalt paver guy, he recommended only blending around 60% millings to any low traffic asphalt road or drive project as the aggregate tends to be bashed smaller, LOADS of fines and should have a decent road base of compacted stone to sit on.
Local asphalt plant here in middle TN covered their entire operating cost one year with the sale of millings. They got bought out by a quarry across the road and now millings cost more per ton than crusher run.
New question. The guys I'm laying down the millings for are concerned that a truck parked for an extended period of time will sink in. I'm pretty certain we are getting the stuff packed as well as possible, on this area we did in two days we sprayed around 80k gallons of water, and we had some pretty good showers too. Around 4000 yards, spread 6" deep. My 6N is definitely coming in handy, but 5 trucks on a 3.5 mile haul, hauling for only 10 hours makes for a BUSY dozer guy, especially when I also have to direct them where I want dumped, since I don't have anyone to be a ground guy.
I don't think it is going to squirt out from under the tires over a long time. If a truck will sink into the ground over winter, then it will still do that. It does not bridge @6" deep if that is what they are hoping.
I believe they're hoping it will hold a truck up as well as a fully seasoned gravel lot, because currently the gravel lots can have a truck setting for a year and not sink in at all.
Whether the truck sinks in or not, depends on the quality of the basecourse under the millings, and the thickness of the millings. Asphalt by itself does not make a pavement. Pavement is built upon a solid basecourse, of appropriate base materials, and properly compacted, and properly drained. If you choose to lay asphalt or asphalt millings onto poor quality ground that is not compacted or well drained - then yes, anything parked on that surface will then sink in, as the underlying basecourse is not suitable for supporting concentrated loads over a period of time.
Millings respond differently than even pea gravels, can mush some but do compact, do not slide as much as clean rock spreads. Should do well unless get 110 degree days and oil base reliquifies then will squish and glue itself together.
Can you set up a Baker tank at the water supply to be filled with the slow supply, and then a larger hose & pump (maybe 4" camlock) to quickly turn the truck around ? Much like how VF Departments use a portable pool and a large chute on the back of the tanker truck to supply water at a fire scene. Dump and go sort of operation.
Water truck needs to have a 3" vac pump on it with dual 4" valves out the back and cam lock adapters to 3", it will run circles on anything else.