Anybody has the backlash value and preload setting values of a clark differential of a Michigan 55C
No Body?
I've seen one once, never worked on one though. I'd like to help but I'm a little light on the books and brain cells for that one.
On ring gear it is written: B.L 0.01 I think this is backlash there is also a 3.755 right below the backlash value By the way these are stamped by hand because not clean as when done by laser. Is B.L the backlash, What should be the 3.755?
3.755 sounds kind of low for the gear ratio, but maybe that's what it is with a planetary axle? Easy enough to check the math. 3.755 sounds way to precise for the bearing preload. A quick search online and the "junk shelf" found 5-10 INCH POUNDS for a similar sized planetary axle, and 15-35 INCH POUNDS for a 40,000 truck axle. I'd guess you'd be fine with 5-10 in lb (inch pounds), but that's your call. If you have any model number for the axle, I may be able to find the exact specification. Those torques are rotating, NOT starting torque etc. I assume you know what you're doing, but feel free to ask.
I don't know the specifics of the diff you're working on, but 10 thou backlash sounds like a reasonable figure to me.
Just guessing here but some diffs are set up using a special tool that is used to measure the distance from the center line of the rig gear to the end of the pinion. Hope I wrote that so it makes sense! A 55C sounds like a small machine so maybe this is the 3.755 dimension? Something like in this image?
this is written on rear axle, on the opposite side where the differential fit
pinion teeth: 7 ring teeth: 37 ratio 37/7= 5.28
I agree, set the pinion depth then the backlash gets you the perfect gear mesh pattern.
kshansen is correct; when the gears are manufactured they are each tested and measured relative to the center lines of the gear set. A factory assembly line has the tools to measure each axle housing, so the shims are calculated by maths. All of this is useless to the rest of us. Use dye or lipstick to check the bedding pattern, and allow small clearance, a few thousandths of an inch, about the minimum back lash that you can feel. Correct bedding (contact) pattern is the most important. gear web sites have pictures of contact patterns and how-to's. PS: Pinion bearing preload; I'd do the minimum preload torque that you can feel, the-next-to-the-smallest preload when you can feel resistance to turning. The pinion bearings wear to zero preload quickly in any case.
Well, I kept the pinion shims as they were before, factory settings. And I adjusted backlash at 0.01 in. In the end, the contact pattern on drive and coast were centered and well distributed. The machine runs good without any sound coming from the axle. Thanks a lot