Deere 310A, 4219 engine (3.3L) I'm changing from two 6 volt batteries to a single group 31. Ground cable isn't long enough, so it needs replaced. May as well change positive cable to starter and be done with it. What size cable is appropriate for this size engine? I see options from 4 gauge to 2/0. Current ground cable is a braided wire deal I've never seen before. How to connect ends if I buy bare wire. Should they be soldered on, or is crimping preferred? I don't think I have the appropriate tools to crimp that diameter of wire, but I can solder.
So I posted too soon. I have a close friend that is an electrician. He has the tools to crimp and told me where to go locally to get the supplies I need to build a couple new cables. Don't mind me, just over here making a mountain out of a mole hill...
I think 2/0 is the norm. I bought the cable from local welding shop but had to take it to the interstate battery place to find the right ends and get them crimped on.
I change to a threaded stud battery and cable. Use two ground cables, one to the engine (or the starter mounting bolt) and a smaller one to the frame. Grounding to the frame is a cheap shortcut that works OK for new machines, but it eventually costs you.
I generally crimp and solder. Prolly overkill, but crimp and solder both have weakness that I think both crimping and soldering overcome. Here is a cheap crimping tool. They make some real nice ones, but $$$ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1UUVT0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My local NAPA makes them with soldered ends, another source does crimp-on. Ed
4/0 MORE POWER!!!! wait wait lets just put some 777 MCM DLO under there, you won't drop a picovolt to it then It's not the size of the engine, but the size of the starter on what it draws on start up as your alternator will never put out as much as the starter draws which requires either the specs on the starter or a True RMS meter to find out the inrush. Solder would of never held it on, crimp and a heat shrink connector in order.
I've used all the methods and had no problems with any of them. Here is the video where I show what I do in the field. Go to the 3:30 mark to see the cable end installations.
I made up some the other day with #1 copper welding cable for a Jeep because that's what I had laying around. I only crimped the ends. I don't the CCA of that, but been working great so far. I wonder if you can get by with smaller cable in warmer climates? We don't have many very cold days here and almost no snow.
I can say from experience not to bother cleaning up old cables and putting new ends on. I tried it with my hoe using the hard solder on ends. Thought I had it all tinned good but when I replaced the cables I pulled the old ends off. The black stuff had leached back into the ends and the contact was less than perfect. The stock cable was 2/0 and new 2/0 spins it fine. I have 3 grounds. The new 2/0 goes directly from the battery to the starter. I also retained a braided ground from one starter mount bolt to the cab and another to the frame.
I had watched your video previously when you shared it and forgot all about your homemade die. If I didn't have access to my buddy's crimper, I would certainly be cutting a nut in half and making my own. Thank you for sharing that again.
Yes, Spud Monkey reminded me that I forgot to mention....A good heat shrink, like 3:1, with adhesive lining. Expensive but seals the ends well.