As title says the bearing must have come loose and now the race seat is wore! what are the options to fixing it? My machinist on past hubs has machined it out and made a bushing with all the proper steps in it and pressed it in. It is cast steel I think is there any type of rod wire or brazing that can be done that can be machined? Looking on the web I found a rod that is sold by Muggy Welds has anybody used this they claim that it can weld cast iron and be machinable. I am wondering if this works there is testimonies there and some other site that i looked on that said it worked! any other suggestions comments? It cost over $1100 to get this all machined in the past! Thanks Jerry
If it is cast steel you might be able to have it welded and then machined,
I doubt that welding and machining would be cheaper than machining it with a bushing. Can you get an oversize bearing cone and have it machined to that size?
Overworked my machinist says and I have done research on web to back it up! If you weld a small area on a big piece of cast steel the heat expands that area and then when it cools back down it shrinks that area so therefore it cracks where the weld is my understanding is that I would have to heat the whole part and then cool it in a very slow controlled way like maybe over a couple days! Also the weld is very hard and cannot be machined. Am I understanding this correctly any other light on that? Delmer is that an option to get sumthing like that guess I have never heard of it where do you get it at a bearing shop? That muggy weld rod they claim can be machined and I have thot of trying it on a part that wouldn't hurt if it didnt work but havnt yet! Thanks Jerry
How loose is it? I've had several that were loose enough that they would drop in place. I took a center punch and center punched a 1/4" grid all the way around the hub and then used Loctite bearing mount and we never had a problem with them coming loose. All depends on how much wear there is.
I don't know how to say how loose it is sumbody else had installed the race and then I got it to shop and they hadn't cleaned all the grease out so took out to pressure washer and that race just went a flying out when I put it in I can turn the it easily by hand as far as a lot of slop it don't rattle around a whole lot I have done what you are talking about in smaller hubs but didn't know if I wanted to risk it with this one! Thanks Jerry
Any thing worth doing is worth doing right. Cary it to a shop and have it sleeved.
I have welded cast before and regretted it, there are some welding rods/wire for that kind of repair . Saw it in another thread, maybe pm Rayf or TomV or Nige, they really seem to know these answers or where to get them, Overworked.
Yair . . . It's hard to say without seeing job and knowing sizes but for a bearing surface I believe any insert should be as heavy wall as practical and pressed in at (say) fifty tons or frosted up in dry ice and drifted into the heated housing. If it were me I would then look at drilling and tapping four (say)3/8" grubscrews equidistant around the parting line . . . we used to call it "scotch keying". Once everything has cooled down rough it out and finish on the tight side . . . that is to say it would drift in loose with frost. Cheers.
I'd never heard of it, but I took a spun roller bearing to a machinist and he just looked it up in the book, got the bearing at his bearing house, and made it fit. It was about $100 more than the standard bearing, but still much cheaper than replacing the part.
I took the hub to machinist today and the one end is the only one that is messed up and it is only where the race sits and so he said that he cud just sleeve it where that race sits so it will not be to pricey! Heavy metal that is the way I like to do things I do not like to do things half way!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Imo if things get done half way they will last maybe half as long or shorter. part of the reason I started this thread is I was trying to find out if there was any other options sumtimes we get stuck in the way we do things and don't look for other ways to do them or think there is any other way to do them and I try to think outside the box. Jerry
Not sure about cast,but here Cat dealer use to use a spatter weld method on like the hub of final drives.Which worked pretty good to build up to hold the bearing race in place.I'm sure some others have hear or done this before.If you can use sleve sounds like the fix.Good luck
Sleeving that is a last resort. If its cast steel its an easy job to weld and machine it back to standard using the right pre machining and welding procedure. If its cast iron then consider sleeving but use a strong steel like 4340 and don't have too much wall thickness in the sleeve. The job will only be as strong as the thickness of the casting and every mm you take out sacrifices strength. Machine the sleeve with around 0.0015 per inch of diameter. Either press it in or use liquid nitrogen. Dry ice won't shrink it enough with that amount of crush. Before all that establish what material it is. If its cast iron a spot of weld on it will likely have small blowhole and a file will be struggling to cut it. If its cast iron the grinding sparks off it will usually be a dull red against lots of yellow ones for steel. If its cast iron there will be short shavings and graphite powder when you drill a small hole.
The hub is at machinist now getn sleeved just where the race goes at least that's what he told me! thanks for the replies guys! Ray may I ask what the right premachining and welding procedure is? The machinist I use in this situation kinda has his way of doing things and really isn't open to new ideas most of the time so that is why I was asking for sugestions! Machinists that will do something like this seem to being a thing of the past at least what I have found and for me to go buy a machine to do something this big is not feasible! Jerry
Jerry,presuming that the material is steel and weldable you can't go wrong taking around 80 thou out of the bore first. Then a pre heat to 250C and then welding with mild steel wire or 7016 electrodes. If the parent material is an alloy steel the machinist will have problems if he doesn't pre machine it. The finishing cut needs to be above the welding fusion zone.
Have you checked with your dealer on the price of a new hub? In looking at the parts catalog (assuming you have a 1810E) the part CB01410333 is only about $850. That might be a better way to go if you are expecting the machining job to be over $1,000!
After I had posted this I looked and it was 856 this is on a 1814E! we have 2112E and near as I can measure the only difference is its about 6 inch longer but it cost 2900 instead of 856! Yes we did get a new hub but still fixn old one for spare! also since it was only where the one race is that has to be fixed machinist thot he could do it for quite a bit cheaper! Thanks Jerry