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Bearing slop

southernman13 · 2021-07-31 08:52

Just looking for opinions on repairing this bearing hole. It’s a Steiger tractor that we’re replacing the center pins and hinge pins and bearing,bushings on. This hinge pin hole wa damaged because the outside part of the spherical bearing broke and it was beating around. Kinda hard to tell from the pic but it has a gap on one side of it. I have the new bearing just sitting on top of the hole for reference but it also seems tight enough that I would have to press it in to get it into place. I know the proper way it to have it welded and line bored. Just curious if it would be feasible to put it in and JB weld the gap. Or I could weld the gap and die grind it out or do it the right way and weld and line bore it.

Replies19
  1. #1kshansen2021-07-31 08:59

    In my opinion JB Weld is good stuff but not in this kind of application! As to welding and die grinding out you would have to be much better than me to get it perfectly round. If not perfectly round you are going to have high points and low points and the outer ring will fail in short order.

  2. #2southernman132021-07-31 09:16

    Yeah I know I couldn’t get it perfectly round that’s just not possible and I don’t want it to fail this thing was a mofo to tear down lol. I’m just trying to rush the repair I know. Probably just take it to CAT store and have it done right. Probably 1500 for them to do it. Idk. They were 900.00 a hole but that was few years back

  3. #356wrench2021-07-31 10:32

    Myself, i would weld it and use a die grinder and flap wheels. Rough it in and then use layout dye. If available, use one of the old uniballs as a test fit a little at a time to find the high spots with heavy contact and then carefully use the flap wheel to take a little bit off as you go. It takes time and a lot of patience. It is a slow process and may take all day to get it good enough to work. The new uniball is supposed to be a press fit. It should take about 5 to 10 tons force to install or drive in carefully with an adapter to press or hammer on the outer ring of the uniball. You can break or crack them when installing if you are not carefull. When you do the final installation use red loctite. Is that retainer plate wallowed out? Its supposed to help retain the uniball.

  4. #4southernman132021-07-31 10:53

    The plate is broken. I ordered a new one. That’s the only pin with the large uniball and the old one the outer ring was all busted out. I don’t have another one for a test fit. The others are the small ones

  5. #5southernman132021-07-31 10:58

    Yeah I just drove out one of the smaller ones from the center pins and it took some force to get it out. So I know it needs to be a tight fit. That’s what I’m most concerned with is having a good tight fit evenly all the way around. I think I’ll wait and call CAT on Monday and see how busy they are and the cost. But it’s killing me not to fix it myself. Just not as rambunctious as I was 30 years ago lol and it’s a 100 in the shade lol

  6. #6John C.2021-07-31 11:09

    I would add the thought of the future use of the machine. If it is going back out to pulling gang disks across lots of acres of fields, I would say the more expensive fix is justified. If going down the road to another use and/or limited money for repair, then do what you can do.

  7. #7southernman132021-07-31 11:13

    Well we’re gonna pull a pan with it. Haven’t used it yet. Bought it this way. Probably not gonna be used as much as we like but you can’t pull this thing apart without destroying other bushings and it’s not an way job. Not for us we don’t have the facilities to work on it and basically doing it out in the open and in the dirt lol. Definitely don’t want to do it over!!

  8. #8John C.2021-07-31 11:15

    That might be the answer to your question then.

  9. #9southernman132021-07-31 11:20

    Yes sir that’s what I keep telling myself lol. My wallet is choking me though hehe. It’s all good I’m just impatient as hell and that’s not helping matters

  10. #10treemuncher2021-07-31 18:37

    Belzona You could machine down a collet to the correct dimensions for the press fit, wax the component to be removed (they have a special mold release wax), set it in with the Belzona and then remove the collet. Part is then ready to press fit the new bushings in. OR, you could just set the new bushing in place with the Belzona. When time is of the essence or difficult laborious repairs, Belzona is a good alternative. It's saved my butt a few times and works well. There are dealers across the world. I've purchased from these guys before: https://www.rumfordgroup.com/en/index.aspx

  11. #11southernman132021-08-01 06:49

    Interesting stuff. Thanks

  12. #12Tugger22021-08-01 13:56

    Id second on the Belzona,its good stuff . We used it on finicky stuff where weld buildup or a sleeve wasnt an option. latest use for me was an exhaust manifold stud on a 3406B that had been misdrilled a half hole out. So far so good .

  13. #13southernman132021-08-01 14:21

    I’m thinking I may weld it up and cut down w die grinder. Most of the hole is good. I believe it’ll go in good n tight as it is but I want to fill in the void. If that don’t work I’ll take another look. First im going to call CAT in the am and see what they’ll charge and the lead time. Thanks for all the responses! I’ll post the results lol!

  14. #14Welder Dave2021-08-02 13:00

    If you can get it within .5mm (.02") welding and grinding, Loctite 660 would be a good choice. With welding, if you grind too much you can always add more weld and do it again. A flap disc on a die grinder would smooth it pretty good. LOCTITE 660 - Retaining Compound - Henkel Adhesives (henkel-adhesives.com) COOLCUT™ Flap Wheels – Walter Surface Technologies

  15. #15southernman132021-08-02 13:32

    Tenfo thanks. Actually a local machine shop dude stopped by and looked at it. He said he could do it no problem. Basically weld n grind. He has the facility and tools and I’ve head crane etc etc and very reasonable pricing. We just dropped it off. One less thing on my plate lol!! Thanks again for all the replies. But yes that’s the main reason I wanted to weld it was I could alway add more. Stopped by welding supply place this morning and all they had was flap wheels for the die grinder. I wanted a stone wheel that would remove more material as well. I spent half the morning looking for some and never did score. So fugg it he can fix it lol!!

  16. #1656wrench2021-08-03 11:56

    Carbide burrs work good unless you create hard spots(martensite) and you don't mind sharp steel cuttings getting down your neck. Full protective gear covering everything from waist up(leather jacket and gauntlets). Full eye protection(double if possible) and a hood covering your head for large jobs. Those little shavings get everywhere and are really annoying

  17. #17Welder Dave2021-08-03 12:56

    Even worse when they're hot.

  18. #18Tugger22021-08-03 22:12

    Almost as good as the wires from knot wheels that you find stuck in you at night when you get home.

  19. #19Welder Dave2021-08-03 23:29

    Oh yeah, they hurt too and you don't realize you were a pin cushion till later on.