Had my kids feeding a fire with my tb135 and just noticed this casualty. Not sure how best to try and straighten this out. It's moved almost 90 degrees right at the welded lower perch. I don't think I should try to bend it without putting a torch to it. Drain and heat? Just heat full, maybe heat and raise/lower boom? Seems lately I have lots of time on my hands so if I bust it off and have to weld on a new line Its not the end of the world. Thanks for any input.
Good day Suggest you remove the tube replace or get a new tube bent and reuse the fittings, take care to clean it well before you re-fit the tube. Kind regards Uffex
I’d get a new spare tube and run it till it breaks! May never have an issue
Agreed. If you have the spare on hand you will never need it.
Unfortunately the line is in the "danger zone" and I need to move it back. If I want a spare it comes with the boom cylinder as it is a welded assembly. Not going to pony up the dough for that to sit around. If I break it off I'll need to cut the hard line shorter, weld a new support to the cylinder, weld a new fitting to the line, and have a longer hose made. Thanks for the suggestion anyhow.
It’s definitely repairable. I’ve welded many. It has to be drained and clean. Many people have trouble getting them totally sealed. I’ve not had an issue but could see where it could become one. Good luck. Really any good hydraulic shop could make you a line. But given the way things are now that probably won’t happen.
Definitely not an expert, but I did rebend several lines when I swapped booms on my Komatsu. As others said, take hose off drain, and I would clean it out good. Then take your mig bottle, and keep it full/ or flowing of the mig gas, heat to to a dull red with acetylene torch and carefully bend back.
The gas inside will help it not scale up too bad
It's not leaking, just leave it alone and go back to work. There is a straight section in the pip and two separate bends. Usually something like that is factory. Do you have a photo of the whole cylinder?
Thanks! The scale hadn't occured to me. Here is a pic of the cylinder. It has a factory welded hard line running from the top port (welded) to a bottom support block(welded) transitioning to hose after the factory bend. It will be a bit tough to clean out without removing the cylinder.
I agree with Batkom. Purge it, heat it, bend it back
If does tear or split bending back after purged, any decent Hydraulics shop can replace Just the line and look like factory. Gonna cost though.
The rust and cracked paint on that bend makes it hard to tell how it was supposed to be bent originally, and how long it has been bent 'aftermarket' . I don't see anything wrong with heating and bending it back, as long as you know what original was.
Need also remember how many WE sacrificed over the years in learning the 'How To' heat and bend them back.
I think the line was straight with the 90 fitting pointing inline with the cylinder.
Thanks for the help. Got it out of the way. Hose hooked back up and no leaks. Definitely not as straight as I was going for but I didn't want to push my luck.
Kinky and not broken is a plus for most people!! Should do fine until gets snagged again.
If it doesn't leak when doing hard digging should be good.
Run the cylinder to the end and hold it there for a couple seconds and it will tell you if it's good.
Holding fine. Just moved some cedar logs around.
You might want to make a guard for it.... I made a clamp on one for the thumb cylinder on our cx60c out of a piece of channel and a couple of Ubolts. It protects the hydraulic line running to the end of the cylinder.
I bent one of mine, straightened with torch heat, they're tough even with heat. On a tight bend like pic I'd be leery of trying to straighten (it works!)