I'm the fuel and lube guy where I work. Our lube truck has a piece of junk grease gun. I need suggestions for finding a real nice (air) gun. I'd really like to find a good one. Our grease gun tips fail all the time too. What are the best tips to buy? Thanks in advance!
I haven't owned/used one but I've heard lots of good about the quality cordless ones. You could install an inverter in the cab to keep batteries charged. As for the couplers buy a good quality one. Like anything these days you generally get what you pay for. Mike
Lock n lube for the coupler. Best I've come across. There are a few situations it won't fit but those are far and few between. I've got a lincoln air grease gun as well as a keg setup. My lincoln is about 2 years old and hasn't missed a lick yet. I'd say I average 2 cases of grease a week through it. Make sure you get one that pumps as long as you hold the trigger down instead of one pump per pull of the trigger. We've got several Milwaukee cordless that seem to stand up to abuse well. I don't know how much iron you have to grease but if it's a lot you'll spend a lot of time changing tubes. The keg setup is great for most things. Junkyard Junkyard
I've got two of these - http://www.graco.com/us/en/products/petroleum-management/mini-fire-ball-225.html They've given good service over the years, one is 10 years old and still pumping grease.
i think model is # 1162 it's awesome never an issue abuse it all the time left it on a muffler whole thing was 200+ degrees that was 2 years ago. Got it on ebay like $60 bucks even when I had a barrel set up this came in handy one of best quality tools ever had granted it is pretty simple.
That looks like the lincoln I have. Seems to be a good one. Junkyard
Like Junkyard I only use LockNLube couplers, best grease couple out there bar none. http://www.locknlube.com/
Thanks guys, I was kinda looking for the type of gun that works on a hose reel and 55 gal. drum of grease. I think its a high pressure system, 120 psi, running heated grease. Our current gun will squirt out about 3 feet, (in the air). I work at a mine that has pretty large equipment. I only have an hour and a half to fuel and grease before the next crew shows up. So I have to work fast. I'm not sure, but I think a cordless gun won't pump fast enough, for my pace needed to get the job done. I also bet that I'd have to refill the cartridge at least 6-7 times. It would be real nice to go cordless though. Make my life easier. I'll look into that "Lock and lube" coupler, for sure. Thanks!
X2 on the lock-n lube tips. as long as you have a standard pipe fitting on your hose, they will thread into it. http://www.locknlube.com/product/locknlube-grease-coupler/
That locknlube looks cool. Just wondering how long they last. Sure looks like a cleaner way to grease and will save grease from being wasted. I have one on it's way. Anyone have a preference between the regular or the XL? I put on a new Alemite gun on today. Works a lot better than the old one. I still would like find a better one, if one exists. A locking trigger would be nice. Any suggestions? We've got a Fireball 425, but I think needing a rebuild. Our hose and reel are leaking, so by the time I get done fixing everything, it should be like new, lol. BTW, do zirks wear out? Ours have been in use for 4 years now, except the ones that have been replaced.
I've been using Locknlube couplers since they first came out. I can't say for certain, but I think they last longer than typical couplers, probably mainly because you don't have to wrestle the coupler back and forth to get the coupler loose from the zerk. On the original units, if the rubber seal wears out you had to replace the coupler. On the new ones they've designed them to be able to take them apart and replace the seal, the new ones come with a spare seal as well. Of course one should check the zerk before you connect to it. Like with any coupler, if the zerk is damaged and has a burr on it, it can damage the rubber seal. The biggest drawback with the locknlube, if you run across a zerk that won't take grease and it builds pressure, the more pressure, the tighter the locknlube coupler will grip. It will literally grip so tight you can't get the lever to pop it loose, you have to relieve grease pressure. The solution I came up with was to install a high pressure needle valve in the grease delivery pipe. Open the valve to relieve pressure and then you can pop the locknlube loose. The brass plug on the bottom of the needle valve has a small hole drilled in it, makes it easy to wipe the exhausted grease clean and keep grease from getting on everything.
I can get about 30-45 days worth of greasing before I have to replace the seal. If I was better about cleaning and checking zerks I could extend that interval I'm sure. And yes they'll lock on tighter than my old man on a his wallet around Xmas! Other than occasional clearance issues they're the shiznit. No that's not a typo! Haha
Thanks guys for all the tricks, tips and tools to make my job easier. I've been the fuel and lube guy before, but just used the tools provided. I play mechanic's helper/maintenance guy for 10 hours and get about 2 hours for fuel and grease. I barely get the job done with the time allowed. So anything I can do to be faster and cleaner is a bonus. Right now, we are going through a drum of grease in about 10 days. 2,000 gallons of fuel in 24 hours. Thanks again!
A little late in now, but I'd give praise to lock n lube ends too... work very nicely. My Lincoln cartridge air greaser seems to be real nice, puts out good pressure. I'm on my second one in maybe 4 years. I also have an Alemite keg greaser... works nicely but seems to lack pressure. I would not recommend it for that reason.
Willie59, I am so going to steal your relief valve idea. where did you get the nice little thumb valve? Thanks:drinkup
That looks like a water bleed valve, from a compressor. Shouldn't be to hard to find, maybe HF or big box store, or even amazon...
Be my guest. :drinkup I got all the parts from a local hydraulic hose shop. All the fittings are steel high pressure hydraulic fittings (no brass), and the valve is a simple Parker high pressure needle valve. The only brass I used was the pipe plug on the outlet end of the valve. Drilled a 1/8" hole in the valve for the grease to escape, then it's easy to wipe clean with a rag.
I just received my Locknlube tip. Tried it out last night, (night shift). Wow, SO VERY NICE! I got real greasy, but from cleaning all the grease that sloppy coulpers made. I'm very impressed, it worked on all but two zirks that need to be changed from a straight to a 45. I had two that were plugged, an locked on tight. Not bad out of hundreds, at least it seems, of zirks. Now I like to find a good zirk cleaner? I see them on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Innovative-P...rd_wg=obI68&psc=1&refRID=BPQ4KD087TEW0V5HRV2J Do they make one that works from a grease gun? Like if I had a dedicated, hand grease gun to unclog zirks? Is there such a thing? Also looking for a good tool for installing zirks? I have the "T" handle one, but almost all our zirks are deeply depressed in a protective hole. I stuff some paper towel into a 1/4 drive socket, with an extension, but that doesn't work very well. Thanks!
I just hope the Locknlube lasts long enough to convince my company to buy them, next time. The company looks at it like this, $5-10 coulper vs. $30? At least the Locknlube can be rebuilt.
I assume the wad of paper towel stuffed down in the socket is to make the threads of the new zerk protrude out of the end of the socket. If so, take a 1/4" nut, put a small dob of grease on it, push it down in the socket. Insert the zerk in the socket. The grease will retain it and the thickness of the nut will make the threads stick out. Shove it in the recessed hole and screw it in. And used with care, the Locknlube will last a long time. And since it makes greasing faster, it's money well spent in my mind.
That worked out GREAT! My job is getting easier and cleaner Thanks for the advice!
Good to hear it worked well for you. I've learned a few tricks in doing a lifetime of work. :drinkup
Glad I'm not the only one to use the Lock 'n Lube. Bought my first one somewhere, can't remember. The next day I called the place back and got 10 more. Worth every nickel!
Just an update. I put the locknlube coupler on our lube truck. I thought it was the best thing out there. We have 3 lubber guys, only 1 didn't like it. Anyhow the tip lasted about a week before the handle to lock it, broke. Before I had a chance to fix it, someone threw it away. I don't think I''ll be buying the company any more couplers......
You can't go wrong with lock-n lube tips. I'm very pleased how they work.
I get that some guys are rough on equipment, but a $30 grease coulper should last more than a week.
What I want know is what kind of neanderthal grease monkey can break a locknlube tip in a week, and still have his job?
Ahha, watson, a clue: I've seen guys purposefully destroy stuff they don't like, then it disappears, so it doesn't come back around again.
The Graco FireBall 425 is a good unit but I am not sure if that is a 50 or 80 to one. The 306-517 is a fifty to one rated for 160 psi air pressure and 8000 psi fluid pressure. The 306-554 is an eighty to one pump. It is rated for 80 psi air and 6400 lbs fluid pressure. Yes the higher ratio pump generates less pressure. They have about a 4 inch piston. The Alemite 7785 is a 40-1 pump. Rated at 200 psi air and 8000 psi grease pressure. The 7786 is a 75 to 1 pump with about a 6 inch piston. It is rated for 100 psi air pressure and 7500 fluid pressure. Volume is massive with it's 2" down tube. It's brother the 7795 is an 80 to one rated for 8,000 psi. The 8540 and 8541 are - were good 75-1 pumps with 3 inch piston rated at 7500 psi. I do not care for the PML and Ram pumps as much. The Lincoln 81685-83513 are a 2 1/2 piston 50-1 pump. They do a better job of picking up heavy grease than some other similar sized pumps. Have a low tolerance for trash in grease, require disassembly and clean out. I don't have their specs but the pressure rating is pretty high.
Looks like a flow control valve, Northern tool?
Anyone ever seen these locking tips? http://univer-co.net/en/products/lock-on-grease-coupler/ Maybe only in canada, they sell like hot cakes at the local industrial supplier. I like them so far, very compact and simple. They make pressure release valves for grease guns as well.
Lock and lube appears to the the original, there's been numerous threads with it as the subject. How much does this version cost?
they all made fun of my first lock and lube now the crew will not accept a gun without one
Paid $30 CAD for the univer-co coupler. Looks to be quality build unit. Will see how it lasts...
I still use a pistol grip grease gun
Looks like a neat coupler GregsHD, many years ago I wondered why someone didn't come up with a grease coupler that works like an air line quick connect coupler, looks like that one does just that. I might just search it out and give it a try, but I'm sure happy with the Lock N Lube coupler. It's all about "building a better mouse trap".
looks like they're both about the same $ but the new one appears to be Canada only, per their dist map...
i know its a bit late, and i haven't had the pleasure of a genuine locknlube coupler, we did get a generic coupler with the same design. works great till the face seal tears or wears out. we went through 180kg of moly grease in 3-4 weeks, withpedal pumps. keeping the couplers clean was my pet peeve. it meant the difference between a week and two days. anyways, i stand by the H/duty coupler i came across from caterpillar. tough as nails and all metal, apat from one thick rubber seal inside. 10,000psi. lasted me months. for the life of me though i cant remember the part number off hand but will look for it and post it when i find it.
190-1670 - that's the one if i'm not mistaken.. has a steel insert, extremely durable. the 2M-2689 has a rubber insert, is smaller, but less durable and not really worth it.
Is this it ? https://parts.cat.com/en/patten/hand-tools/grease-guns/190-1670
thats it. I know there's no image for the coupler itself, but if you ask the dealer they should be able to show you one.
my local john deere dealer sells somthing that looks just like that one in north carolina
I'm dredging up this ol' post to make some noise about the Lock n Lube branded pneumatic gun that OP was originally asking about. I don't need to grease insane amounts of stuff but this thing seems to work well. Easy to prime and use (with tubes at least) and much quicker and less fatiguing than hand pumping. I'm assuming this could be hooked up to a keg, not sure... Build quality is nice and I think it came with a coupler and a rebuild kit. Like 120 bucks or something? The hardest part was the little pneumatic oiler they suggest putting on there and only because they didn't say how to fill it. Luckily, there was like a 12 year old kid that posted a video on how to do it. Uh, you have to twist apart one side of it that appears to be plasti-welded together, there's actually a little o-ring in there and you can't put any oil in it due to no air being able to escape.