Alright so I finally got my pickup and dump truck hitches very nice and heavy duty. Question I have now is does anyone know what bolts to use? I assume grade 8 will do and if so where should I get them? I heard tractor supply bolts are from overseas but not sure. I just want to get the best bolts possible or else it doesn't matter how strong the hitch is! Thanks guys
Hard to beat Caterpillar for consistent quality. I also like to use flanged frame bolts grade 8 available from your favorite truck repair shop.
Yeah I heard cat bolts are good. So I can go to the dealer and just ask for grade 8 bolts with nuts? I only been to cat once everything I own is john deere
Request {Stover} type locking nuts. If they don't know what that is-tell'em to look it up on there pocket computer.
Got it. Should i put thread lock as well when I tighten down? Can't hurt I guess?
Just walk in like you own the place. They will be glad to see a new customer. They won’t have the prevailing torque lock nuts, like Truck Shop recommends, in the Cat system. Go to Kenworth for them. And treat yourself to a fresh K-Dub ball cap in their gift shop while you are there. They might even have a Lucus oil display cranky thing on the counter. Give it a try.
Lol love those things
Stover Nut. *
Flanged stover nuts are best if you can find them
Got everything after lunch thanks guys. They were the same price just about as napa was only like 20 bucks. Hopefully the quality is the same as cat from years ago
Best-est bolts don't do much without torquing them properly.
Thread lock and around 120-140 foot lbs what I was told. Didn't use the wrench just felt it by hand but they're tight. I'm not worried about that for a pickup towing 6 tons. When I do the dump truck I'll probably use a torque wrench since I'm towing considerably more
Hammer the **** out of them with a impact!
Lol yup. I never torque anything with a wrench unless it's an engine component or somthing extremely critical. Never once had an issue
What size dump truck and how much are you towing? Just curious since this and the hitch itself seem to be quite the decision.
Single axle but switching to a triaxle in the summer. Reason I'm so concerned is because almost all hitches sold in stores are from overseas and lately I been seeing a lot of people posting pintle hitches snapped off and that can kill someone. If I'm going to spend money I want to do it once and do it right and be done with it. That's the only reason I'm concerned because of lack of quality these days that can take out multiple people with an excavator flipping over doing 65. Not to mention jail time probably lol
Bolts, even the best, break from NOT being torqued tight enough. At a much lower load than normal breaking.
Do you know what 1/2 inch grade 8 should be torqued to? It felt like if I went much more i would strip it out. I am no expert in bolts that's why I'm asking
My chart is at work, please stay tuned. FWIW 120-140 ft. lbs may be the proper torque, but use a torque wrench. Many times I set the wrench, and I'm pulling and pulling, and wondering "when is it gonna click", making it much tighter that I would have done "freehand". Make sure you also clean under the head, and where the nut/washer seat, so there is no relaxing after torquing. CAT discusses this in detail for applying crawler shoes/plates IIRC.
Not sure if this will post but I'll give it a try: If it works should have torque spec's from thing you might never knew there were spec's for as well as basic nuts and bolts.
Okay got it if you find out that'd be really appreciated. Im not a super safety guy or anything and I do stupid stuff all day long but for this is one thing that concerns me because I been seeing way to many hitch failures more and more over the years and personally know a few it happened to so I do at least want to this right. Thanks buddy
Here is a grade 8 bolt torque chart---one thing to notice is the wet/dry torque limits. Rod, main & cylinder head bolts are figured at a wet limit, assembly lube on threads and under heads of bolts & nuts. * Now one that will drive everyone up the wall----I've assembled Shortened/lengthened 70 some plus truck frames and consider myself some what of a authority on the issue. I've never torqued a frame bolt or nut-----That's what my Snap On Shock Wave was for, never had frames coming apart, bolts snapping or any of that jazz. Someone show me a frame shop that torques frame bolts--Utility doesn't do it assembling on repair. * Anywho here's your bolt chart.
Oh wow thats perfect thanks! I wonder if using a little thread lock would affect the dry/wet torque? And yeah I mean personally I would known to overtighten everything so I'm not worried about not using one but looks like on the dump truck I'll I'll to go to over 400 lbs so I'll use one. That's gonna be fun to do with the amount of room I got due to the way the plate is set lol
I can't find my chart, but found one online that looks very similar: Bolt Torque Chart Bolt Torque Chart showing suggested torque values and corresponding bolt clamping forces for various sizes and specifications of fasteners. www.repairengineering.com For a 1/2" grd. 8 the numbers you were given, 120-140 lb ft look too high, so your concern for strip out is real. Note the chart values are diff. for fine or coarse thread.