Oh no, another oil thread. I need to change out the Cenex hydraulic oil that I put in the 210 over a year ago. Even though the specs say it's the same as Cat, it's not. Haven't had any failures, but I can't stand the fact it takes twice as long to get limbered up when it's cold, and you can definitely hear the pumps whine a little more in the summer. First question, is there a hydraulic oil that is good from say -15F to 90F? I'm sure it would be synthetic, but I'm not opposed to that necessarily. My only concern is changing it out. What is the best way to get a good change? Reservoir holds about 30 gallons, total system is over 60. If I'm changing to synthetic, I'd really think a guy should get out all he can. Sidenote, my PC290 has Komatsu HO56 in it, and it's due for a change. It definitely seems to limber up quicker, would that be as good as anything, or is there something better yet?
Chevron Rando HDZ is available in multiple viscoities and is their best oil, but I cannot say if compatible with your machine. I know of quite a few logging contractors that swear by it. Rated at 4000 hour change. They make cheaper versions that are good for 2000 hrs only. Might want to check into it. Simon C
It lists all the pump manufacturers that it is rated for in their book. Simon C
Oil threads always get me fired up. If it’s slow to warm up in the cold and whining in the heat, a high-VI full synthetic is the only real fix. On the other hand, If you again switch, drain it as well as you can and change filters or it’ll haunt you as you don't expected it. That HO56 warming up quicker says a lot… once a machine feels right, there’s no going back.
So, what should be the procedure to try and replace as much oil as possible? Start with everything stretched out to maximize oil in the tank. Fill like 15 gallons, cycle the cylinders to fully extended, drain and add another 15, cycle again and replace? This would end up using about the amount that's in the system, but not in the tank? As long as it can prime with only 15 gallons, shouldn't hurt it to only cycle the cylinders. What would be a good plan to circulate through the drive motors?
What ever is the full capacity of all the oil in your machine X about 1.5 will still be some remnants of the old. When you get the drive motor oil out it will be back in system somewhere again. Not very easy to clean and flush. Simon C
So, when I tackle this replacement, if going to synthetic, is it really as big of a deal as one might think? I've always been diligent of maintaining brand and viscosity in all machines, if not knowing what's in a particular machine, I change it out so I know. Only exception I have added small amounts of HyTran to a system that I don't know what hydraulic oil exactly is in it.
Plane and simple Chevron oil is less than 1/2 the price of dealer oil here in Alberta, costs some now but good for a long time. I have to remind myself that good oil will save me money in the long run in wear and tear. At price of new gear who can't afford good oil. Simon C
Chevron sells another oil called Clarity Hydraulic Oil AW in 32, 46, 68 ---- that is zincfree/ashless which may be more what your machine calls for. Just to let you know they have multiple kinds and made in USA. Made for applications involving yellow metals in hydraulic systems in severe, high output axial piston pumps where pressures are above 5000psi. $1000 extra at time of change these days on 210 size machine will be like toilet paper in comparison to some big repairs caused by some cheap oils. Continuously see people who wont change out $60.00 worth of planetary oil on one final drive after walking machines a million miles, but will shell out $15 K for new planetary without hesitation. My thinking is a little different to theirs. Simon C
Chevron Clarity Synthetic AW 32, 46, 68 is their other option. Very high quality oil. Simon C