I want to replace almost all of the 30+ year old hoses on my 1968 580B CK while I am doing a ton of other repairs. I am up to 36 hoses that I need to buy if I want to replace them all. I know my local Napa guy will be way too expensive, as his prices has sky-rocketed over the past years. Who can supply these hoses at a decent price? I will try TractorStuff, and hopefully they will give me a good price. Any others? Also, in the Case Parts books, it gives great diagrams and part numbers and hose lengths.....but does not state hose diameter or PSI ratings. Where can I find this info.?
You may rethink about replacing 36 hoses when you find what they cost. A couple of things to keep in mind when replacing them are, single or dual wire in the sheath. PSI rating is extremely important. Nothing less than 3200 psi if it were my machine. I would advise you to purchase brand name hoses. Parker and Aero Quip by Eaton are the only ones I use. I know a a guy that did just what you are doing. He had taken all of the hoses off of his Case backhoe and took them to the local CNH dealer. He asked them to make all new hoses. They cost him $1700.00. The problems started as soon as he put them on . One by one they either burst open or the laminations would separate in the hose. The dealer sold him hoses that had no name embossed in the outside of the hose like any reputable mfr. would. As far as I know every hose he had replaced were replaced again. He was so mad he never even tried to get anything for compensation from that dealer that sold him the Chinese crap.
I have the same machine and have done a lot of hoses over the years. The sun and physical damage to the outer rubber sheath are the biggest cause of failure. When the steel core is exposed to moisture, they rust and eventually fail. Tinkerers advice about quality is right on. I use a local hydraulic shop to make up replacements, only quality and add the spiral hose armour. They also have special extra flexible hose for places like the swing tower hoses. All are not cheap and I only have replaced what is necessary during cylinder maintenance. My loader hoses are original and will be done this year when I have it apart for cylinder packings. Case hoses are expensive but for a few like the hose for the shuttle filter in front of the rad, you get the correct fitting. The parts book is great for lengths but does not address the fitting sizes. Your best best is to take the old hose in to the shop. Any decent hydraulic shop will have most of the O rings, all the cylinder packings, hose and any adapters required to fit up to the old ones. A good relationship with one of these businesses can also help in the cost, since they have better pricing for good customers. Its only my opinion, but as already stated, change what you need as you go along and buy quality. It may be the last time that hose is changed in the life of the machine. Jess
I used to work in a Freightliner/Volvo dealership that had its own hydraulic shop. The hydraulic shop used to get work in from all over the place including everything from regular homeowners to massive fleet repairs. Might want to check with some of your local heavy truck and equipment dealerships in your area and see what they have to offer.
If I had that many hoses to do I might just buy thr press and do them myself. That way you could keep or sell the press when you're done and you could replace them one at a time.
i have just replaced them as them blow......Napa in my town makes hoses so i just get them from them....
Find your local Parker hydraulic store and have them make the hoses. The one we have here in Conroe Texas is very good and good prices.
Alot of great advice from everyone. Here are some pics to give you a feel of the condition of the hoses. I have the loader controls off so I can sand/prime/paint, and access to these hoses is great now......if the price is not too shocking, I would like to replace at least the worse ones now. Tinkerer.....good advice.....I will stay away from the Chinna-made junk which is just throwing money away and receiving a ton of frustrations down the road. So, I should opt for 3200 psi on all the hoses, even though the return lines can go with less? Looking at the pics, I guess you would advise replacing any that have cracked/falling off pieces of the outer rubber sheathing, and just keep the ones that still have non-cracked sheathing? Justatla......That would be a nightmare.....$1700 of junk hoses......a good lesson to share with us back yard mechanics. ToddV.....Yea, I guess youre right in buying a press, but that is a whole new adventure where I have too many adventures going on already. Glitch.....blow by blow, one at a time, 5 gallons of hyd at a time.......float like a butterfly, sting like a bee, the punch of ali and the cost of these hoses. Buick.....10-4.....will try the large truck shop here, and maybe they will be better/less expensive than napa.
What I recommend, is that you find a Fastenal store and buy a roll of Weatherhead hose in the sizes you need, and buy reuseable fittings. Your Case should have npt fittings which are common reuseable ends. Weatherhead is a reputable name and Fastenal sells quite a bit of it. Some of the college kids that work there might give you a blank stare so I would hit the net and have part numbers in hand. I think they use Weatherheads numbers with a prefix so it really isn't too hard. Reuseables are a little old school, but still work well,once you do a few it is easy.
repowerguy......Thanks for that idea....there is a Fastenal only a few miles from me. If I were to buy a roll of the Weatherhead hose, then I would need some type of crimping machine or a way to make the ends? Or is this something Fastenal would provide? Sorry, Im new to the hydraulic line making process.
I thought that Case had SAE O ring boss fittings.... and the hoses are JIC flare, maybe one of the Case experts will chime in and verify. So im not sure what is easier than taking the hoses to Parker store and then installing the new ones on the same fittings that are on the tractor- hoe.
I am more of a Deere guy so Case may use JIC fittings but you can get those too in a reuseable. The outer socket screws on the hose first then the inner screws in the socket only tools needed are wrenches, really easy!
davo......Im not sure about the SAE O ring boss fittings (but I believe there are not o rings). As the pics show, these are all crimped onto the hose, and it seems it would be a major hassle to reuse these old ends. Nearest Parker location is almost an hour drive....alot of running to/fro for hoses. Only have two large quick disconnects, which are the feed/return running to the backhoe.
repowerguy......I will ask about the reuseable type, and see what happens.....and how the price compares to standard crimp type.
I am choosing to go slow on the hyd. line replacement. If it weeps or breaks it gets my attention. The latest was a return line that was capable of moving 20 gallons of fluid out of the machine in less than a minute, out of view of the operator station, (when you smell it or notice the functions changing it's too late). I don't worry too much about the high pressure side as it more likely to be caught early with a lot less spill. So my latest trip to the hyd. shop concerned this hose from the brake peddle. It has a couple of drops of fluid weeping out. Looks to me like the severe bend might be the cause. Hyd shop told me that a hose needs to have enough extra to accommodate the shrinking when the pressure is increased, (didn't know that). Looking at the hard line above it with the nifty circle in it and I thought maybe I could do something similar to replace this with a hard line. Hyd. shop said that their bender does not do circles. Also dealing with brakes I have the accumulator to deal with as well as bleeding out any air that gets in during replacement. All this for something that isn't broke yet. May be I need to find something else to do.
The fitting is between the hose and the valve in the pics, it has O ring boss threads going into the valve body, and JIC mating with the hose. You can change the fitting to change the thread style on the hose, but that's emergency redneck engineering. A two hour drive for that quantity of hoses could be the best time you spend on this project. Unless you're doing a couple at a time, then you might as well wait for them to fail. The reusable ends aren't cheap, especially if they're not going to be reused most likely.
The Reusable ends are more $$ but you can use them numerous times and can assemble a hose in the field with two cresent wrenches and I mean in a field!
1968 Case I couldn't help noticing the rear of your machine looks like it's supported by only a jack in the pic. Your situation is easily fixed with a couple blocks of wood. Leave the jack in place , place wood blocks to support the machine. Relieve some of the pressure on the jack. Always block a lift if possible. If anything goes south, the load only drops a short way. Stay safe & enjoy the machine.
Exactly, and if he was putting it on a log loader clam it would be more likely to be needed. A restored 50 year old backhoe is will be perfectly happy with "disposable" hoses.
:iagree:exactly I'd be tempted to replace a few at a time, stating with the ones that look the worse or as it is opened up some right now the ones that would be easiest now and leave the ones out in the open for a later date. One good point, take pictures and label things if taking off more than one hose. A handy thing to use are the different colored zip ties you can by at places like NAPA. Put red zip tie on fittings of one hose then one on the hose. Red hose goes to the two red fittings. Do this before taking pictures will help too! If you can't find the colored zip ties you could always go to dollar store and buy several colors of cheap nail polish, just be ready for strange looks at the check out counter:tong
Hosspuller......Yea, you are right.....I had only those two hydraulic jacks supporting the hind end, and had been intending to toss in a couple jack stands.....just got too busy to do it, until you mentioned it. I agree.....now things are a bit safer:
Im no hydraulics engineer, but I agree with Delmer.....that this old rig will be content with less pricey "disposable" hoses. But I will check into all the great options everyone brought up. I just dont want to be in the captain's chair when one of those loader hoses decide to blow its top and soak me with fluid.
kshansen......good points....I will target the ones that will be hard to get to when I re-assemble the loader controls and the backhoe. All the ones on the outside can be patient......good things come to those who wait. But, weight broke the wagon down too.
OK.....an update on the cost of hydraulic hoses: I just got these three replaced: A total length of all hoses of 12 1/2 feet. I went ahead and got new quick-disconnect ends. The new lines are 2250 psi. The price for all three was $380, which kinda grabbed me by the boo-boo. Is this a fair price, or do I need to find another supplier?
What brand hose is it ? Single braid wire or 2 wire ? 2250 PSI would never be installed on my machine.
I'd keep looking. You probably paid a lot for those quick couplers, but otherwise there aren't any oddball (expensive) fittings on those hoses.
Not to keep beating the drum , but that sounds pretty high considering the hose psi rating as well. But you have them so roll on with it. Around here I get hoses for my Cat 416 from the dealer fairly reasonable and they are the 3500 psi MSHA approved , I'm not mining but it is a higher quality hose. I use NAPA at times. You could also look up a Parker Hydraulics location , all this has probably been covered. I can agree with replacing the hoses , it will make your restoration look good.
Call the Parker store and ask them their price on them. All the hoses I have gotten from parker say 4000 psi on the hose.
With out knowing the exact sizes of the hose and fittings, hard to be sure from picture, it hard to say. Those quick couplers could run any where from $30 to $60 each depending on size and brands. Each of the crimped on ends again depending on sizes could be $10 to $25 and there are 6 of them. Then there is the hose could run in the area of $10 per foot. Plus they probably charge A flat price for each fitting to be installed. So doing a lot of wild guessing I would say while not a bargain price not way out of line. I'm sure with a little looking around you should be able to find some place with a bit better pricing. If you know any big contractors or large farms I'd see where they get their hoses made and see if you can buy them under their name but pay cash. A little off the subject but I know where I worked they got Donaldson filters 60% off list price and also a good discount on hardware at the local Cat dealer, but then that company might buy half a dozen machines that cost 3/4 a million dollars each every year or so not to mention the many service calls from the service department.
How about this hose? Im thinking I could have gone another good 5-10 years with no problems. Maybe a couple twists of duct tape would have fixed her right up?
I remove the pin from this loader cylinder and was going to lower it down out of the way so I could better sand/prime/paint the loader frame. I got the pin out, and then tried using a large pry bar to make the cylinder close up so it would clear the frame mount, but it does not want to compress any. Is this normal? Note that both lines are disconnected from this cylinder.
For 1/2 " hydraulic hose & under I generally shop at farm supply stores first . http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp...10051&storeId=10151&searchTerm=hydraulic+hose Blew a 1" hose on the excavator . Took it to my local hydro shop . He had two types of 1 " hose . One rated for 2,000 psi & then jumped up to 5,000 psi . I sure did not need the 5,000 as my machine pops the reliefs around 2,250 to 2, 500 psi . I went with the lower rated 2,000 psi hose . Time will tell how long it lasts . It was about 4 foot long with swivel fittings on both ends . Cost $102.50
Is your name Walter by any chance? Many years back when our quarry also supplied stone to one of our blacktop plants about ten miles away we had a small fleet of 18 wheelers to do the hauling. One day when Walter was trying to dump the load off his truck the hoist line to the trailer sprang a leak. Good old Walter figured he could fix it enough to unload the truck. Walter took a whole roll of duct tape and covered that hose. Needless to say it did not hold. Did you ever have to handle a one inch hydraulic hose with another inch of oil soaked duct tape Words fail to adequately describe the slime on that hose:Banghead
kshansen......Maybe I'm Walter's cousin, or something like that. Man, that must have been one slimy, blistered-up, duct-taped hydraulic line. I bet ole Walter still remembers that one. Maybe he's the guy I always see in walmart buying up that duck tape, and is running the chrome duck tape on his bumpers.
Hi there! Look for it on tractortool website. I always get some spare parts there. Maybe, it will help you too
This is a great job! What are you using to sand down in the hard to reach areas, and what kind of paint are you using? I'm looking to do the same on my oliver, but if I used regular sand paper, I'd spend more on that than the tractor is worth I'm afraid. You might try this site for hoses: http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/Made_to_Order_Hose_Assemblies_s/74.htm I haven't used them yet, my hoses happen to be available at tractor supply, but when I do need a special hose I think they're it. I was fortunate enough to have a hose that was still readable, said SAE 100R2A, which was easy to match.
I do not think I have seen it mentioned but I have gotten a few hoses from Surplus Center and have been satisfied. They averaged about $15.00 per hose for 1/2" 36"-48" long. Made in the USA, 3500 psi.
X2 on the comment above about tractor farm stores like tractor supply. The hoses are nice parker or goodyear 3500psi hoses and the price is less than half of Napa. Sure they're not custom cut to fit, but if you have room to be a little too long in places, you can save some serious coin. I just made my log splitter project for my TB125 and the new hoses are working great with no issues. Note, I'm a "homeowner" not a commercial user...I cannot comment on how these hoses would hold up in a production environment...however they look plenty rugged.
Fatjay......Thanks for the kind comment on the paint job. Dont laugh too hard, but I have experimented in the past with Rustoleum oil based paint and primer. $25-30 per gallon, and you can thin it when necessary with mineral spirits. I first brush it on with a 1" or 2" brush, and follow within a few minutes with a 2" roller (this takes out any brush lines). If you want alot of the detailed tricks of doing this, let me know and I can send you a seperate email with a ton of tips and pictures. For sanding, I first pressure washed as best as I could, scraped away all the grease from the ooozing joints, and used diesel/gas to degrease any remaining oil/grease. Then various size wire brushes to get around all the bolts and nicks/crannies. Then I found those course/medium block sanders work great to roughen up the surface and remove rust stains and surface rust.....then 100 or 120 grit sandpaper or emory paper. Whereever I had some flat surface area, I would use a small square orbital sander. Then I used compressed air to blow most of the dirt off, followed by a clean rag soaked with gas to clean up all the dirt/oil and fine sanding dust. Then the rustoleum primer, followed a day later with the first coat of my special mix rustoleum safety yellow (mixed with rustoleum safety red and some brown). Typically 2 coats are enough, but sometimes I slap on a third. Im not sanding between coats as you can do if you want a super slick finish....thats just too much work when dealing with all these wierd angles and surfaces. But here is a pic of my 60 Chevy 2.5 ton that I painted the same way, but used finer sandpaper and thinned the paint more (still brush and rollers): And a before pic (I still need to put the chrome trim on):
Fatjay......I also ordered a ton of sandpaper, block sanders, emory cloth, and even the $15 orbital sander from Harbor Freight.....I know its chinese, but you get alot of bang for the buck. Thanks for the link to the discount hoses.....I will have to give it a try. I just got back from the local auto parts stores, and spent another $300 in hoses.....so I am up to $700 so far. I tried Tractor Supply but they only have 3', 4', and 5'....and only in 1/2 or 3/4.....and alot of my hoses are 5/8", and with old style fittings. For the backhoe hoses, I may be able to get by with some of these (or I even considered buying the longer hose and then cutting down to the right length).
Mike and Billdog......Yea, I will have to give them a try on the backhoe. This rig is only going to be used on the farm, so I am sure the T.Supply ones would be more than sufficeint.
The last tractor I did, I just sanded real good, roughed it up, and used a 12" roller. Now I have a gun I was thinking might give me a better finish on mine. After I finish rebuilding my hydraulics, I'm going to pressure wash the hell out of it, sand the flaky stuff, and spray it. But i was dreading all the crevasses and creases all over the place. And I've had old paint defeat sandpaper in the past as well. I pressure washed my spool valves and it did a surprisingly good job, I was really impressed. I was afraid at first, but it came out really well.
Fatjay.......mann, that 12" roller definately cant reach into those nooks and crannies. Be sure to shoot us some pics of before, during, and after. If you are not too scared to use Rustoleum, you can mix with mineral spirits and use in your sprayer.
I've got 2 harbor freight sprayers. I'm also going to be building a cab at some point, but need to finish repairing the hoe first. I'm picking up a '51 Ferguson TO30 with loader today, so I have something to play with while I wait for parts, PLUS I'm leaving for 3 weeks for Thailand on Monday! I don't know how I had time to work before I retired. I'll be watching for more pictures of that 580, I came real close to getting that exact machine when my Oliver popped up.
1968 Case, Do you have any idea how sick it makes a guy from New York feel to see an old Chevy that looks that good. It's been close to 50 years since you could find one in that good of condition up here in the snow and salt belt parts of the states! Heck it's so nice down your way you don't even use windshield wipers?
Hay Fatjay, I've been following your other post. If you don't mind me asking, what's in Thailand? In any case, have a good time!
Kshansen.......funny......you have the eyes of a hawk! Noticing that I did not yet put the wiper blades/arms back on the old 1960 Viking. Yea, you guys up there waste a whole heck of a lot of perfectly good salt on the roads. Thanks for your thumbs-up on my "redneck" paint job.....but at least it looks good from a few feet away, and I have completely stopped the rust. The truck came from Missouri about 30 years ago, and was a water truck on someone's farm. Over the past 25 years it has seen very little use, just hauling some oak, walnut, and cherry logs to my cousins sawmill, and a few loads of heavy stone. It was breaking my heart seeing her rusting away in the field, so a few winters ago I spent megga hours on the restoration. This old lady is amazing.....it will sit for several months, and all I have to do is pull out the choke and hit the key for a second......she fires right up and is says "Lets GettyUp!!!" Although the gas tank is in perfect shape, I have installed an old tiller 1 gallon tank on the frame beside the hydraulic dump tank, so I am able to run fresh gas around the farm instead of dealing with a 20 gallon tank of aging gas. Here is a pic of the customized white/red door panels: Here is what happens to my 60 Viking after driving the roads of New York for a few days: Ha ha......
Gotta love them old trucks! I had a 55 chevy 1/2 ton I brought back from Tucson Az. But I sold it to a friend of mine because I didn't have the time to finish restoring it. Now it seems time is spent restoring my 83 Dynahoe 1900. Don't think I will go as far as a complete paint job but who knows. If your backhoe turns out anything like your truck it will be something to brag about. Keep up the good work
Blueboy.....yep, gotta love all the "elderly iron", rust or no rust. That 55 chevy half ton is a classic....maybe you can buy it back from your friend after he does all the resto work (just tell him not to use Rustoleum paint on her.....ha ha.) Will post pics when I am done with the Case paint job. Thanks for inspiring me to finish this megga task....as I am doing both mechanical work plus the paint at the same time. I just ordered alot of great parts from Dale at "TractorStuff".....even got a new seat and that chrome "Old Abe" eagle to fit between the headlights. Since I am removing alot of hoses, I went ahead and drained the hydraulic fluid yesterday and removed these metal lines so I can properly sand down the rust and paint properly: How about this old hydraulic fluid? Looks so good, I might have to pour it back in......ha ha.
Wife's family. Plane leaves 10am Monday, it should be an experience. Man, you are really breaking that thing down. I'd be worried about breaking things trying to take them apart. That's what my hydraulic fluid looks like, even after I dumped 5 gallons and put in 10 gallons of fresh.
Update on the hydraulic oil change: Here are some pics......the hydraulic oil filter canister was on so tight that I needed a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a large pipe on the end.....at least that soft aluminum can did not break. Got the cover off, and here is the insanely dirty filter: At least it looks clean where the filter mounts: My question to others with an early 580: The hydraulic gauge is operating well in the green or "good" zone, but wouldnt the crapola all over the filter have it reading more toward the red zone? Also: Due to the brown color of the fluid that came out (see prior pics), is it advisable to flush out the fluid reserviors with a few gallons of diesel fuel, let it drain well, and then add fresh hydraulic fluid?
Looks like you have some water in your hydraulic oil. My oil looked worse than that until… I probably shouldn’t mention this but looks like I am anyway. I boiled my oil. I used an old canning pot and cooked it on the stove. Needless to say doing this inside the house this is very dangerous! The flash point of hydraulic oil is around 425 degrees fahrenheit. KEEP THE LID NEARBY!! I used a small amount to test first and heated it to about 275 deg F. Once I felt it was somewhat safe I went with the big pot, but 225 deg was plenty hot enough and I let it cook for about 30 minutes. The first bucket must have had a lot of water in it because it almost bubbled over. Depending on how much water is in there will determine how long to cook it. When the oil turns back to a dark clear brown it’s done. Before you put the oil back in it needs to cool down to at least the temp of the tank, otherwise the hot oil will pull condensation out of the metal. I learned that the first time. So far I did it twice and plan to do it a few more times. 5 gallons at a time, 20 +/- total. I recently bought a turkey fryer with a SS 30 quart pot, but I need to TIG weld a valve at the bottom to drain the oil. I used a paint strainer to catch any big chunks before I cooked it, you could do it again when you put it back in the tank. For longer life it is recommended not to get the oil above 180 deg. That is why I plan to do a complete oil change after all the water is gone. My backhoe’s hydraulic system holds 55 gallons, 35 in the tank, 20 in the hoses and cylinders. So you see, this might be a lot of work, but at the cost of good hydraulic oil it’s saving me a bunch of money. If your system doesn’t hold a lot of oil, doing what I did might not be worth the hassle. If anyone plans to do what I did, PLEASE BE CAREFUL!!! And keep the kids and pets far far away! Your filter looks bad but depending on the flow and psi, your gauge can read good. It would probably read closer to the red at full RPM and full flow on the spool valves. Cleaning out the hyd tank is a good idea. Make sure you get all the diesel out with clean rags. Mine had a bunch of crud at the bottom.
Leaping Lizzards! Wholley Kamollie Batman!.......Your rig takes a total of over 100 gallons......Wow!!! No wonder you created this great idea of boiling off the water. If I were ever to tackle that, I would try to find an old beater stove and do it outside just to be safe. I applaud you for experimenting and learning how to do this. So, Im gonna save my old fluid and mark on the buckets "Need to do the BlueBoy Boil, BBB". You will have to do this on a big scale and sell your own brand "BBB Erl". Well, my Case 580CK has the hydraulic tanks as part of the loader frame, and you cannot physically get rags inside to clean out the bottom. All I could do is just slosh in 5 gallons and get ole Bubba to grab the CK's rear end and shake it up/down and sideways to get a real good sloshing going on.....and then drain it. However, I would not want to get any of that thin diesel into any lines or cylinders. It will be good just knowing there is a new filter and fresh oil in the system. How do you think so much water gets in? I had a bunch of leaking cylinders, so do you think that rainwater can also leak past the seals and get into the system that way? With all cylinders rebuilt, I sure hope the water will not accumulate. I was thinking about putting a manual valve where the drain plugs go so that I can crank them open and try to drain a pint of water-laden oil every month or so. Its crazy-difficult to unscrew a drain plug, let a bit out, and then try fighting the torrent to get the plug threaded back in.
FatJay.......Yea, I am breaking this old rig down pretty far......I guess I am trying to seize the opportunity, after removing a few pieces, I realize its not that much more work to remove a couple more, and then the next day I remove a few more to make painting easier......and the next day a couple more. Like Yosemite Sam says, "When I say Woe, I mean Woe! Woe Mule!!!!!" I need to stop removing parts and get the paint done, and put the parts back on. Well, at least Im not the only one with muddy looking hydraulic fluid. Enjoy the trip......
The water is from humid air that comes in through the hyd tank vent and condenses on the inside walls of the tank.
If a guy wanted to spend the money now there are dessicant breather cartridges available that will take the water vapor out of the air before it enters the hyd tank. You would have to have 2 of them so you can rotate them out after they reach max capacity. Then change the media or heat it up to expel the water.
No it's 55 gallons total. The tank holds 35 Hoses and cylinders 20 Yes if oil can get out, water can get in. One of my outriggers has bad seals. One day I put it down and water came gushing out. Both loader lift cylinders are bad. =:crying I don't think I would do the diesel thing now. If your not 100% sure you can get it all out, then don't do it. Let the new filter do it's job.
Flush it with diesel and use a suck bucket to get the last of the diesel out. If you feel like it, add oil until it flows out the drain then suck that out too.
Delmer.....I had never heard of a "Suck Bucket" before......did a google search, and it brought me right back to the Heavy Equip site, and the article by Willie59......a fantastic little contraption to suck out any type of fluid, using your shop vac, and without messing up the vac. Learn something new every day. I could just fish the hose down from the top fill hole, all the way to the bottom and suck out any remaining diesel.....or, like you say, just pour some oil in and let that drain out to be sure all the diesel is gone. Thanks for the info. Blueboy, maker of the BBB Erl.....well, 55 gal is still alot. If I ever come to your house and your making burgers and fresh french-fries, Im gonna make doubly sure those fries are cooking in olive oil, and not hydraulic oil. Ha ha. Water in the outriggers.....I think I may start securing a couple 5 gallon buckets or plastic trash bags over the outrigger ends to keep rain water from even trying to squeeze down into the cylinders (when its sitting, and not in use). Davo727....i will have to check into the cost of those anti-water filters. The factory vent tops have a type of hard air filter inside which can be cleaned....but on one side it is cracking and falling out in pieces......so I need to find some type of filter to replace it.
Oh no, you figured out my secret recipe. The desiccant air breather is a good idea, I will definitely buying a couple. I found another kind from Donaldson, they say it's better. http://www.donaldson.com/en/ih/accessories/trap.html Ok, have to get ready. See you in church.
Blueboy.......hey, they would fit perfectly and replace the rusty old metal ones....and I wouldnt have to sand and paint them. Will have to check the price on these puppies. Oh.....you must be dropping in on Christ Church New Zealand on your way to Thialand.
i went to napa they cost me more than getting from coleman equip and 3500 lb rated hose compared to 4200 lb fire resist hose from case
Jess- Look up Surplus supply hydraulics- those guys have supper prices- I think you just found your supplier.....brian
Sorry for intruding on 1968 Case 580CK’s post but I felt it was necessary to give you guys a heads up. The only reason I am writing this is because of what I wrote before (#52). I did another round of boiling my oil. All was good until I heated about 1 1/2 gallons of oil that I knew had some standing water in it. I had a couple quart cups catching the oil dripping out of some leaky cylinders BUT it caught some rain water as well. I didn’t think it would be a problem but it was! As it was heating up it started popping and as it got hotter it popped harder, almost blowing the lid off. (I put the lid on to contain the oil splashing out) So like an idiot I kept it going and it seemed to be done, the color looked good, I swirled the pot around and just as I stepped back It let loose one huge pop and splashed 250 deg oil 7 feet in the air. Only the good Lord kept me from getting burned!!! Apparently there was still some water at the bottom of the pot. Needless to say if I know the oil has standing water in it, I will NOT boil it out! I missed recording the last big one but you can get an idea of how bad it can get. https://youtu.be/M9sn9aEPp98
Thanks for the warning on the oil heating. You know its dangerous now and hopefully nobody gets hurt trying to do that. Need a setup that is maybe electrically heated where the process could be controlled remotely where you weren't any where near the oil while it was hot.
Make one wonder how much saving money on new oil is worth? Also have to wonder how many of the additives in the old oil have been effected by the water? Before doing this and risking getting burned with hot oil, starting a fire when hot oil sprays on to heater, and the possibility that the additive package in the oil has been destroyed I think I'd be shopping around for the cheapest no name oil to run in it to flush things out. Then if there is still some moisture left in the system work it good and hard to get the oil temp up to 250º to boil out the moisture. Then do what ever is needed to be sure the water stays out. For some idea of what can happen if oil erupts from water while heating check out the "Turkey Frying Fails" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXESqkUf2IU
Blueboy.......Wow! Glad you did not get burned, as that could have been a real nasty situation you had going on. Now everyone knows to keep the boiling rig set up outside someplace and 20 feet away from any living critter.
Maybe thats how ole Frank Perdue lost all his hair........deep frying his chickens. ha ha.
I order my hose in bulk and fittings from wbc industrial. They carry gates. About half price what they sell them for at Napa. My 580c has mostly jic fittings but the swing cylinders have o-ring boss where they attach to the swing cylinders. The local shop crimps the hoses for free.
jpeters.....wish I had known before I spent a ton replacing most of my lines....but I may try them when I start rebuilding the backhoe. Thanks for the info.
Custom Modification to the 580CK hydraulic drain plugs: I put a valve on each side, with a brass cover cap. This way I can drain some of the moisture out of the hydraulic tanks w/o removing the plug and fighting to put the plug in with a gusher of fluid pouring out. Maybe a good way to hook-up an IV if the old Case gets really weak, and needs a fast fill of fluid.
Your project is coming along nice. Good idea installing a drain valve. Except, the rubber washer might not last against the hydraulic oil. You might want to use a draincock. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Campbell-Hausfeld-3-8-in-NPT-Draincock-GR001500AJ/202796136
Buy a roll or box of hose from a supplier and what fittings you need in the reusables. Never buy fittings again. They screw together wiwth a couple wrenches and a vise. I learned that from our local electrical coop that uses a lot of equipment.
Blueboy......Hey, thanks for the thumbs-up. I tell you, the temps are climbing (today about 100), and its taking more and more discipline to keep rolling on this old Case. Plus, I parked it on asphalt and in the hot sun with no shade trees around (unless you call an old Uhaul truck a shade tree....well, after 6pm, I do get shade from the truck).....and Im hoping to have her running soon so I can drive her to cooler climates under a tree. Drain valve.....well, if the rubber washer begins to fail, I also have the brass cap to hold back the fluid. Next time, maybe I can try to find a draincock to fit it......I did not even think about that......yep, that would have been the way to go.
Carogator.....Yep....Im learning as I go....just a rookie here. I might try that when I start rebuilding the backhoe to the tractor.
That would work but my preference is a ball valve with a pipe plug in the outlet, 1/4 turn on and off.
Reusable fittings are not 100% reliable and should only be used if absolutely necessary.
I got all my new hoses from a local shop, http://www.clarkindustrialsupply.com/ . I took my old hoses in said I needed 6 of this, 2 of that, 2 of that, and 1 of each of those. Guy said no problem, give me 10-15min. Disappeared into the back and 10min later reappeared with 10 shiny new hoses, rated 4500psi-5300psi, for $535. It was a bit more than I wanted to spend, but it was done on the spot while I waited and the guys knew what htey were doing, more so than me, so I guess I paid for their experience. Everything went on nicely. I still ahve a leak from the spool valve, I think I cut the u-cup on install, but it's no where near as bad as it was before.
I know $535 is not pocket change for most but for that pile of hoses I think you got a bargain! Looks like possibly AeroQuip Match-Mate Plus hose. Should out last the rest of the machine if installed and secured to prevent rubbing.
Theya re good hoses, rated way over what the machine is rated for. They should be good forever. The only thing I regret is not replacing the rest of the hoses, but $$$. Considering it's a personal machine for yard work and not a work machine that makes me a living, the wife was calling me about the price before I even got home. I told her i wanted to do it right and do it once and not have to worry about it again. She reluctantly agree'd, she's pretty on board with the whole do what you need to bit, thankfully.
Then you might need some new tires, and might as well rebuild the engine... Just kidding But maybe buy your wife something nice instead.
I found a place that does good value low cost complete hydraulic hose assemblies. Here's a link to the finished hose assemblies. http://www.hydraulichoses.com/Custom-Hydraulic-Hose-Assemblies-s/180.htm You can also call for a custom quote. We've worked out quantity discounts with them. I have 40 different lengths of R2 Hose with Female JIC's crimped on and they barely charged a crimp fee.