1987 JCB 1400B Long story short: Need to keep hydraulic fluid from entering ALL hydraulic arms/shaft's so I can start/move/repair JCB 1400B hoe until I can repair and/or repair old hoses and seals. I need whatever the cheapest way is to keep fluid from reaching anywhere it can potentially leak. I just want to be able to start it and move it for now, nothing else. I have been a shade tree automotive mechanic for 45 years but have very little diesel experience. A few years ago I got this JCB running after rebuilding the fuel injector pump with a little help from a guy from SC who took me through it step by step. I also replaced a ruptured hose, got the leaky cooling system to slow a bit, and was able to get it up on a transport and over to my property. The front seals are shot and wouldn't stay elevated at the time so I drained 32w out and put 20w fluid in just to get the front bucket up and wedge a 4x4x8 post under its arms to transport. 20w was a lot cheaper and I didn't have time to stop all the leaks. I will put the 32w back in when everything is capped and I know it won't be wasted. My most important question is can I or should I just cap "output" ports from the pump or do I need to cap each hose with female plugs? Or, is there some other way? TIA
Sounds like quite the project. I would make some steel safety blocks for the loader arm cylinders, unless you can chain or strap that 4x4 post to it securely. Blocking off the pump is a really bad idea. If it is still coupled and can get oil, it will be pushing high pressure with no relief. Now you get to buy a pump. If you run it with the system empty then you're spinning a dry pump also not good. I'd leave things as-is wherever possible and cap and plug lines that are dripping
Thank you sir, will do.
Generally, You can put 2” angle iron, over the exposed lift cylinders and zip tie them or tape them so the pressure goes to the angle iron.
Thanks Harley, I'll try that when I get the leaks capped. Skyking, one more question, you said: "Blocking off the pump is a really bad idea. If it is still coupled and can get oil, it will be pushing high pressure with no relief." I guess I don't get all the functionality of the pump system but how does capping/plugging at the hose ends vs. plugging at that same hose outlet coming out of the pump, b4 it enters the lift cylinder, still provide safe "relief" back at the pump?
Because the pump is constant flow when the engine is running......even during the starting cycle. With nowhere for the oil to go, the oil will deadhead and break something a lot more expensive.
Got it, thanks Vetech.
When I was flushing my hydraulic oil, I put in a ball valve on the hydraulic return line and tee’d off that to a barrel to collect the oil as I flushed it. Forgot to open that valve one time and as it was turning over, blew a oil cooler line, in an instant.
Lesson learned. I think I just drained mine out a plug on the bottom of the tank. Flushing is definitely more thorough. I'll have to look up the procedure when I get to that step.
You can remove the driveshaft from the front crank of engine to the pump which is in the 'nose' of the machine. That will render the hydraulic system useless. I'm guessing it will ALSO render your steering useless but you might be able to use brakes to turn or just align as needed so you can go forward/backward. This is the same shaft you'd have to remove if you needed to replace a belt (water pump as I recall).
This old beast is scary with power steering otherwise I would consider that option. The original '87 brakes are also not that great either. This thing is a mess. I can get a 10 pack of 1/2" BSP Hex stainless plugs off amazon for $11.