I need to install a block heater on my JD 302A Diesel. There are no freeze plugs in the block. What's the best way to do this? I've found heaters that go in the rad hoses and heaters that stick to the bottom of the pan, there doesn't seem to be one made specifically for this tractor. What works best?
Go to automotive parts store and buy an auto Tank Heater and install it according to the instructions inside the box. http://www.fleetfarm.com/images/products/large/0000000047511.jpg
The picture is from the John Deere online parts catalog.It shows how the factory installed them. I have used this type engine heater and they are really good heaters. They are available in a variety of wattages for different size cooling system capacities.
Hi ! Since I have a dozer and a excavator and from time to time electrical power is not easealy available I use a Propane gas engine circulator that works very well , it is install with quick connect so I can use the unit on both machine . made by rexo-therm mine is set @5k btu . nothing runs like a Deere (warm Deere I mean) lol
Andre, that sounds like a slick setup. I googled rexo-therm and saw them mentioned, but did not find a website. Any chance of posting a picture of your setup? How long does it take to get it warm enough to start (say from a -18c which is 0F)?
This engine doesn't even have 2 fittings to attach to, the only hole is a draincock. Do I drill and tap holes, or is there another way?
Hi ! REXO-THERM don't have a web site but they can fax the data manual , as far as pics are concern right now I can't provide any since all is been removed for preventive maintenance on the machine and for the time taken to warm is unvailable because it is my first season with this set-up, but by the test i made in the basement I can tell it won't take half a day to warm because @5k btu the water is flowing pretty fast in the circulator .
The access hole should be 1A and 1B in the picture. Here is the link to the John Deere website for your tractor. http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/...s.HomePageServlet_Alt?search=model&model=302a Expand the search results / then expand sectional index / expand 10-Engine / now choose 1A cylinder block. You will be able to see the entire parts list along with the picture I am attaching here.
Nothing to add, other than to say I don't need block heaters in San Diego.Sorry I had to say it, but you guys are amazing for working when it gets that cold. My hats off to you!
Thanks Tinkerer, that explains it. The holes are 1/4NPT and one is the location of the draincock, I expected them to be larger.
You are welcome PhilDirt, Those openings seem small for a block heater. I have had two of them and they both had heater hose (5/8 ") fittings. But as shown in the JD parts book 1/4" must work OK. If you buy the heater at an auto parts store then I guess you will need some bell or bushing reducers to make the hookup. Post back after you get it working and let us know how well it works for you.
i've had VERY good luck with the magnetic heaters. put them right on the oil pan. who cares what temp your water is. overall goal is to heat up/loosen oil viscosity for ease of spinning the motor over, and assuring you have lubrication in the starting process. i haven't put a block or tank heater on since they came out with the magnetics. when REAL cold, we'll stick one on the bottom of the hydraulic tanks too
Here's a different view of the heater kit in the parts book. Looking at the machine again, there is a 90° bypass hose that connects between the head and the water pump. This looks like it could connect between the 2 nipples for the bypass hose, which are a more appropriate size. Is this likely? And if it is, does it affect the operation of the heater to mount it near the bottom of the block and run the hoses to the top of the motor?
Close to the bottom of the block will be the best position for the heater. The reason being , the warmed coolant has a natural tendency to rise from the bottom inlet to the upper outlet in the heater. The same thing applies to the location of the heater connections to the block. Warm coolant entering the lowest location and exiting at the highest location.
No disrespect Tinkerer, but usually the warm coolant from the heater should enter at the higher location on the block or head, since when it enters the engine it begins to cool (heat transferred to cooler engine parts) and sink to the bottom, exactly opposite of the coolant in the heater itself. In my experience, you don't want it too high either, like up in the water manifold, since it will create a hotspot and just sit there and not circulate well. It doesn't have much opportunity to give away its heat in a place like that, and just sits there. Phildirt, regarding your Deere and the small 1/4 NPT fittings, Deere uses 1/4 x 3/8 NPT street elbows for these connections along with 5/8 hose connected to those locations shown in the drawings, and they work just fine like Tinkerer says. If the *entirety* of the heater is below those points, it will circulate like crazy. Trust me on this. Don't try to tie in up by the pump; you'll end up with the pump smoking hot and a cold engine below. And to answer your question about mounting the heater low on the block, ya, the lower the better. Make sure it's vertical too. Marv
No disrespect taken MGW. Thanks for the heads up ! Although I had installed mine like I described and it seemed to work OK , I should have done a little research before I post wrong information on a public forum. Here is a link to a .pdf document that is posted by a well known heater manufacturer. I am not recommending the product. It gives detailed information on the proper installation and USE of the heater. If any of the moderators feel the link is improper to post, please delete it. http://www.hotstart.com/assets/PDF/TMMinstallinstruction216061-024.pdf The T/L/B I now have has freeze plug style block heater and it does do an a good job when I need it.
Thanks Tinkerer, good info in that document; it mentions quite a few important points. I actually prefer the freeze plug heaters if there is a place to put one, less to go wrong.