First cylinder that has needed rebuild in 25+ years of use. My 1995 build 1845C Case unit has sure been a good one over the years. Three years ago I purchased packing kits for all cylinders just to have on hand so went ahead and pulled both "curl" cylinders for rebuild. The quick tach coupler and lifting booms are loose in the pin bores and there are some bushings which will be replaced while the machine is down. The bores which do not have bushings will be align bored and bushings installed. Snap gauges show about .030 wear in the worst area(s), but the bores not perfectly round. That may not sound like much but with all the joints this machine has on the lifting booms, it is a lot of slop. I did get quite a bit of masonry tearout picked free of the pile before noticing the cylinder puking oil: I drove into the shop streaming a trail of oil, parked and removed the curl cylinders: The gland seal is blown right against the cylinder rod: I have a lot going this next week so will probably send these over to the hydraulic shop for rebuild. The look easy but they can address anything the may need attention I may not see and they're known to do good work.
Shops with a cylinder table make it a lot easier.
Bucket cylinders on skidders take a horrendous beating. Good call on hydro shop with a good rep. They can verify that the rod is true, the chrome is acceptable and the can's not worn or scored.
Thanks, I'll send them to Sarco in Litchfield as they offer no charge pickup and delivery at the shop and quick turnaround. Probably going to send the control valve in also as it is beginning to "weep" from the spools, but I don't have it extracted yet.
Called Sarco and they'll pick up the cylinders today. I still don't have the control valve extracted but the machine has a belly full of mud which is soaked in hydraulic oil. I think I've either rubbed a hydraulic line to the right drive motor through, or blown a hose in the final moments of using the tractor. Regardless she's leaking pretty good with the mud acting much like a sponge. It made a real oil slick all around the tractor setting overnight in the shop. Oh well, I'll get it all addressed while it's down this single time if possible.
Had to deliver a new tractor yesterday that was right around the corner from a machine shop I use fairly often so stopped in there. I'm needing a smaller set of line boring bars and from 3/4" round 1045 shaft, they'll make a few smaller bars broaching tool ports and grub screw threads in them accurately. This so I can line bore my coupler and loader frame bores to tighten them up. I've had them size bushings to holes in the past and they do a good job at much less cost than OEM suppliers if one can stand the downtime on the machine. Thinking aloud I may check with work to see if they can get a new bucket cutting edge. They are a CNH dealer and my bucket is original to the tractor. I mounted the cutting edge currently installed years ago, but it's rounded over pretty good now. It came from the JI Case dealer in Peoria at the time and I don't know if the mounting holes are standard or generic?
These are the lower pivot points at the bottom of the coupler on my 1845C and can be seen as quite worn. Only the inner holes are shown but there are also outer holes in line with the inner holes worn just as bad. There are no bushings in these so will be bored larger and bushed down to the correct size for new pins. Left side as sitting in the seat: Right side as sitting in the seat: These areas are the rotating hinge for the coupler when curling the bucket so take a lot of wear. They are not able to be greased. Snip of the coupler: Snip of the loader frame: Bushings illustrated by #10 are what the coupler rotates around on. New pins will be fabricated from C1050 chromed hydraulic cylinder rod. They measure 1.2500" in the unworn area.
Forgot to update with the cutting edge. I checked with our parts dept. and they are not able to order parts for Case Construction though they are a CNH dealer. The cutting edge would need to come from Birkey's whom is a Case Construction vendor. My cost would be about $170.00 for a new cutting edge but I don't think I've turned mine since installing it all those years ago. I seem to remember there being an option of single, or double bevel cutting edge and I'm thinking I installed the double for the ability to remove, and reinstall with the back facing forward exposing a fresh edge. I'll have to look once the cylinders are back which were picked up yesterday. This is a load I hauled/delivered yesterday and the forward tractor went to Galesburg, IL so I checked on the cutting edge at Birkey's which they had on hand:
Removed the bottom pins the coupler rotates on and upon first glance it appeared someone had installed bushings in some of the holes but closer examination reveals the metal to metal contact from a mating "boss" has worn the outer circumference away. I'll build this up with weld deposit and take it back down level with a facing head on the boring bar. Left side: Right side: The bushings in the curl cylinder rod ends are worn .018 on the left, and .012 on the right from perfectly round. The pins are also depressed where they contact these bushings so didn't measure them but originally 1.00" in diameter. The only trouble with any of this is that ain't no money in working on your own crap..... But is sure is fun????? Regardless, it needs done.
Is there any way to internally dump the hydraulic supply to move this tractor without the engine running? Most hydrostatic driven equipment I've been around has an internal dump mechanism to allow the machine to free wheel, but I don't know about this skid steer. Thanks,
Stopped by the machine shop yesterday afternoon just after loading this up for delivery: They have two of my boring bars done but snapped the broach on the third. Unfortunately, the broach snapped on the 60"" bar I need to bore the coupler holes. I could couple a pair of bars together for the needed length, but they've ordered another broach and should have it middle of next week. Talked to the shop that has my cylinders and one of them has a worn gland bore which will be replaced, or sleeved. Doesn't really make much difference to me but the rods were straight and no other problems noted. I should have those back on Tuesday, or Wednesday of next week. I like Sarco as they are very precise in their work and want to put a product out they can comfortably stand behind. They do that consistently too. Not an advertisement for them, just mine, and several other's opinion I know of. This very thread was a good one to post. The farmer whom purchased that tractor shown is a reader here but wishes to remain anonymous. However, he has a medium sized track loader which needs the arms line bored and I'll do that sometime over the winter months.
My cylinders came back from Sarco using the packing kits I'd supplied. Excellent work as usual. I talked to the rebuilder direct and he stated there was no damage and it was evident I didn't run the tractor with them leaking long as all. Nothing internal needed anything so ultimately they were stripped, cleaned, resealed, and pressure tested in their load cell with a passing grade. Good enough from me but they have a track record in their favor.
Reinstalled cylinders yesterday afternoon and all back to normal for operation. No leaks, drips, nor errors and machine is back at the ready.