I am dealing with a leaking bucket control valve on my machine and so far the only issue is that I need the part number for the the hydraulic elbow, w/ accessory/testing port, that threads into the top of the valve and connects to the "output tube" (as it is called in my dealer service manual). The elbow and the steel hydraulic line (line discontinued according to local dealer) are in very poor shape and I am replacing them both before they leak. I have called both Bobcat dealers in my area and given them every bit of info they have asked for, even brought the whole control valve in to the local dealer here and showed them the elbow I needed, and neither of them have been able to source me the correct part. The best I have been told is "we will just sell you a generic hydraulic elbow w/o the testing port" which I still may do but I would like to replace the elbow with the proper elbow if possible. It seems nearly impossible to me that this isn't an elbow used in multiple machines, or at least a semi-commonly used elbow, that would be a stock item or at least Listed below is a link to a stock photo of my valve and located at the bottom of the picture, between the two solenoid valves denoted by the "1" arrows pointing at them, is the elbow I need. https://www.google.com/search?q=bob...6#imgdii=Pi-ba2s4qLFnzM:&imgrc=JQJcIyrpXQUPzM :
The elbow without the test port should be available at a good hydraulic shop. Would drilling and taping into it to fit a test port be an option?
No idea where to look in that link? Can you share picture from parts manual? Even if discontinued, book should still have part number. Can you share that?
Yea the elbow w/o the test port is an option and and is readily available, I just assume the test port is there for a reason. While I have never needed it, I would hate to sell this machine one day and be the jerk responsible for installing the cheap elbow and making diagnosis more difficult for the next owner. Drilling and tapping is an option but with the high pressures of hydraulics and the possible need for an o-ring makes customizing an elbow less than appealing. A standard hydraulic tee with a threaded plug for the diagnostics option the factory port gives me would be a more appealing option to me and I think a tee would fit. Considering the steel tube that connects to the elbow is discontinued and I am going to have to get a hose made for that I may end up just doing a standard tee.
I haven't been able to locate a part number, that is the problem. Additionally, so far at least, neither Bobcat dealer has been able to get me a part number yet. Patience will probably yield me the correct part as I have to assume these dealers will do their jobs after two days, I am just admittedly somewhat impatient with this stuff when it seems like this should take a dealership 15 minutes to locate and get me a price on.
Well, how about a picture of it? Do you have it removed? This is as close as I can guess without pictures. Even then, we'll have to determine thread and port style.
Hmm, not sure why you guys are having trouble seeing the elbow in the link I posted but if you copy and paste the link below in firefox or chrome it will take you to a picture of the control valve. The fitting is located at the top of the picture between the two solenoid valves. It looks more like an elbow than a tee but could technically be called a tee I suppose. The purpose of the original post was to see if anyone had a parts diagram with a corresponding part number since both of my local dealers are struggling, or possibly reluctant for some reason, to provide the actual part I need. I will continue to look as I'm sure either I will eventually find a diagram and part number or one of the dealers near me will get me the answer. https://f01.justanswer.com/Jefft110/2015-04-13_163051_img_3688.jpg
Since both the steel line and the elbow are discontinued by Bobcat, what are you going to replace the steel tube line with?
This is the valve Shane21 posted.
I don't have access to "C" book. This from "G" book. 6715653 elbow @ $65list price. 6708748 tube @$84. Now you just have to compare to "C" model. Maybe you need smarter dealer? Pulled from here https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjALegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw12W4QkYu7L8EKxVX2fe789
last time i needed that elbow and tubeline they were still available. but it's been a couple years ago. i think the older control valve has the same size ports as the newer valve, so the newer fitting may work. hyd supply house should have common fitting that can be used. FWIW to remove that fitting from a c or f series machine you'll have to loosen (or remove) the valve mounting bolts, and pry the valve towards the center of the machine to unscrew the fitting. as you may notice on the G series valve and fitting theres a test port in the fitting, theres no real "service" use, it is used as a factory hyd fill point. M series valves have a couple of couplers on them for testing, some machines have 2 different "main" reliefs, one for the aux circuit and one for the main hyd circuit.
With the parts diagram that heymccall posted I will contact the dealer today and tell them what part # it is. I tend to agree that the dealers I am working with either aren't that smart or aren't that motivated - maybe both. If the test port has no real use other than during the manufacturing process, as crewchief888 stated above, I will gladly use a common hydraulic fitting and be done with it. Changing the fitting will be easy now regardless of what I replace it with since I already have the whole valve out of the machine. I intend to clean the valve all up, replace all the o-rings (both on the spools and between the bucket and aux housings), the balls and springs, and anything else that looks like it may be an issue in the relatively near future and I hated the idea of doing all that work in the machine where it was just too likely I would be getting dust and dirt inside the valve while taking it apart and putting it back together. My 753 is 23 yrs old and other than a couple blown hydraulic lines and a rotten muffler over the 8 years I have owned it, I have had zero problems with it and it has made me a pretty good pile of cash as well as saved me 100's of hours of manual labor doing unpaid jobs for my own properties. Going the extra mile on this project will cost me a few hundred dollars more than just targeting the likely spool leak and that is money well spent imo to hopefully never have to mess with the internals of this valve again. If the dealer still cannot source me the OEM steel tube after I supply them with a likely part # I will make the hoses or more likely just have a hose made at my local hydraulic shop since they do it so cheap and every time I go to use my hose crimper it takes me 20 minutes to remember all the quirks with it as well as a failed crimp or two to get the proper hose. I intend on replacing a LOT of the steel lines under the cab on this thing with hoses as they fail because working around the steel lines makes life much more difficult. Thank you all for input. I will post a final summary of what happened when I get this all sorted out over the next week or so. I will also take a pic or two of the valve after I am done and indicate where the leak was pouring out of the valve and what the actual cause of the leak was (hopefully I can find the culprit) so that hopefully someone else can benefit from this thread down the road.
What, you dont have a hydraulic shop within driving distance that makes steel tube assemblies? National Hydraulics here in Connellsville, PA makes steel tubes. I made, on site, all the steel tubing, in chassis, on my Bobcat 3023 trencher. Hoses wouldn't fit. All I needed was an appropriate bender and flaring tool set. I just use National Hydraulics for the sizes I dont have tooling for.
I am sure I could request a steel tube but I see no benefit to going steel in this case, other than maybe saving me a few dollars, because space to run the hoses really isn't an issue. I would much prefer all the hydraulic lines be hose instead of tube for ease of installation and probably more so for easy access to other things on the machine that the steel lines may impede. For instance, removing the whole bucket control valve like I did probably took me about 6 hours and at least half of that time was due to working around all the unforgiving steel tube hydraulic lines.