Finally pulled the Bobcat into the heated shop for some long overdue maintenance. Threw the fan belt last week, found the tensioner has failed. While in the shop, I thought I'd address an engine oil leak. Now I'll be replacing: fan belt, drive belt, alternator belt, fan drive pulley (its bent), the fan tensioner, the main drive tensioner, the idler pulley, all filters, 2 hydraulic hoses from under the hydraulic tank, and adjusting the steering as the left side has considerably more slop than the right side. To address some of the leaks, the engine has to come out, so I started disconnecting everything so I can pull the engine and pump together. Once out, I'm also going to pull the fan drive and reseal it as it appears to be seeping gear oil too. If it hadn't been below freezing when I started, I would have power washed it before bringing it inside. The layer of grease, grime, and oil is really heavy in the belly of this ol girl. She's a Series C with 3200 hours on it.
3200 hours doesn't seem very high to be needing all that work and having to pull the engine. Hopefully it goes back together relatively easy for you.
As tightly as crap is packed into those things, it's a lot easier at times to pull the engine than work with it in place. That scenario plays out often at the implement dealership I help out with older New Holland skid steers.
@Welder Dave it may only have 3200 hours, but the machine is a 1993 model year (30 years old). I've had to replace multiple hoses on this machine already in the few years I've had it. The belts, tensioner, and fan drive pulley, I could do with engine installed. The engine oil leak is coming from the right side of engine, and possibly back side as well. Maybe even oil pan, not 100% sure. Engine needed to come out to address that. When pulling the engine, it's easier to pull the skid and take the engine/pump assembly as one, instead of pieces. You can't hardly reach anything between the engine and pump and this gives me a chance to inspect and clean while that assembly is out of the chassis. I'm doing it myself, so an extra week on this project doesn't change my costs, aside from possibly replacing more worn out parts.
There is a lot of silicone used in the assembly of the engine with no gaskets. These leak pretty good over time. I just installed two oil pan gaskets on Grasshopper zero turn mowers this past week for this very reason.
Isn't it a Kubota engine? They aren't known as leakers and use gaskets as far as I know.
Yea, Kubota V2203. It is a very easy starting, smooth running engine, but this one definitely has an engine oil leak.
3200 hrs on a C series? Damn, that thing ain't even broke in yet! While you have the assembly out replace all the o-rings on the o-ring boss fittings on the pump, and that's 900 series o-rings, if you use anything else they'll fail. And you might as well replace the control shaft seals on the drive pumps, easy task, and even easier with them removed from the machine. You most likely have the one piece aluminum pintle arms on the pump control shafts with the hardened chrome spools, those things were damn near indestructible compared to the later model neutral centering spools, but if they're worn a bit, loosen the bolt that mounts them and spin them around for a fresh contact surface. Also swap around the plates that contact the pintle arm spools if they're worn. Replace the plastic bushings for the drive centering plate, and if the rubber linkage arm bushing are worn replace them too.
Oh, forgot to mention, before you tear that thing down toss the bucket. Jack the rear up with a floor jack and set stands under it so the rear wheels are off the ground, then use the loader arms to lift the front wheels off the ground to either use stands or wood blocks under the front to lift the front wheels off the ground. Then raise the loader arms and install the safety prop. Now...tear into it.
IIRC that engine has a sleeve on the rear crankshaft seal riding area. The rear seal is in a carrier so both are easy to change. I don't remember the engine having an oil pan gasket but rather silicone as mentioned earlier. Both D722's I did earlier in the week, and my own D902 did not have oil pan gaskets. I have a Z482 from a truck APU to do yet this week that is a leaker, but I've not looked into it yet.
I did drop the bucket before I parked it in the shop. I hadn't planned on doing everything we are, so I wasn't smart enough to raise and lockout the loader arms before tearing way too much stuff apart. I was just telling my brother I should have done that, would have been easier accessing stuff. I didn't jack it up either. Is that a normal process for tearing one of these apart? I appreciate the insight on clearing up the slop in the steering. I will check out those components before it all goes back together.
Not a normal process for said repair, but when you get done with said repairs you will have drive creep and that's one thing that is damn near impossible to adjust with the wheels on the ground.
I was going to pull my case in the shop this winter .It has several things going on but i have a job this week so it will have to wait.
3200 hours on a yard loader that runs 16 hours at a time is a brand new machine. 3200 hours 10 minutes at a time for 30 years on a Bobcat is a tired old girl . . .
Depends if the leak is from not being used enough.
This job took a backseat while I waited on a service manual to arrive. I found a used copy in excellent condition on ebay for $55. It arrived Monday, but then work got in the way. Finally back to it late today. Read the manual, saw they recommend a lifting device. I rummaged my scrap pile, had all the bits I needed, so I built one.
Ohhh.... Home made lifting device ... Beware the safety nazi. need a Certificate and tag of some sort. My safety "professional" was satisfied with a letter signed by me as tested at 3x expected loads. With alum tags stamped with serial number and load rating. Shudda put a pic of the test load in the file. That was more than 15 years ago. All about CYA
Meh,Safety nazi can gripe all they want. My garage, my Bobcat, my hoist, my decision. I think my lifting device is in better shape than my hoist right now. Hoist has definitely seen better days.
Your welds look decent which is the most important. It is apparent to me that someone not very experienced designed the lifting device. The extra plates on the side look amateurish. Why not just put standard gussets on the inside of the corners? And the piece on the 45 has no gussets. Kind of funny actually but all that matters is if it works.
Very cool i will have to remember that.
Lifting frame looks pretty good, you've been practicing your welding? I don't think the frame is going to be the weak link in this operation. And extend the legs.
I wondered if anyone would catch that. I bought the lift in the shape it is in around 2008. I plucked a handful of engines that summer with it before a friend pointed that out to me. The heaviest was a GM 6.2L Diesel from an rotted K20. I've never extended the legs, don't know if I could now. One of the legs is bent, it won't touch the ground until we put a load on it.
For some resone i have a new set of legs if you were closer. I all so have a complete hoist laying in my scrap pile i already have one i told a friend he could have it.
Buy a appropriate sized Clevis for the Chain and use it to pin the hook or a similarly sized Clevis eye Hook, easy fix. Nice work.
oarwhat, Been there done that as to witnessed Firsthand a Cherry picker flip/roll over
I built one of those engine pulling brackets once! One thing I ran into a lot on the 753/853 series is the plastic fuel tank right under the engine leaking. Rocks would find their way onto the top of the fuel tank, and then grind away between the engine oil pan and the fuel tank. Sometimes making leaks in the fuel tank, sometimes making leaks in the oil pan.
Bolt in a second piece of chain, right beside the original one, and put chain on each side of the hook with a longer bolt. Will put the bolt in straight shear, vs. just trying to pull the washer off/ twisting. And extend the legs.
Finally got back on this today Lifting device worked as intended. Wheels on hoist are seized and it took a lot of effort to get it to slide back. There is one heck of a mouse nest on top of the fuel tank and a lot of grease, grime, and oil to clean up. I'm going to replace a couple hydraulic hoses to the loader arms and double check torque on other hydraulic fittings while the engine is out. Make sure everything is properly torqued. The engine is going on a dolly to be wheeled outside and power washed so it can be resealed.
Figure that leak out?
Fielder's choice: Tearing it down to pull engine showed the fitting on hydraulic pump was loose and seeping. It had fresh oil on it when I went to remove the hoses and the lock down nut was loose. As for the engine, it looks like front gear cover is seeping all the way around, especially around the injection pump. Also looks like the main crank seals are seeping on both ends and possibly the end seal on the hydrostatic pump. There is some gunk around input shaft on the hydrostatic pump. I have to pull the pulley and take a good look. I don't have that seal, but there is a good hydraulic shop close by that can service pump if need be. Also, the fan drive assembly that sits above the pumps has a seeping seal at the input shaft. It could be the cause of the buildup at input shaft on pumps as it would leak 80w90 right down onto that area.
Power washed engine, scraped out everywhere we could inside the chassis. The fuel tank was suctioned to the bottom of the chassis from all the oil and grease that made its way underneath it. Just foul. Found another mouse nest in front of left side drive motor. I'm going to split engine from pump and put it on a stand to get it resealed. I'm debating on taking the pump in to the local hydraulic shop. Machine ran fine when I brought it into shop, but wondering if servicing it now may prevent unknown downtime later.
Power washed fuel tank as well.
One of those pay it now or pay it again later.
Be sure and replace that fuel pickup tube inside the tank and the elbow grommet while you have it out
Worth repeating. Bobcat pick-up tubes are junk! By the grace of god mine broke in front of the shop door. Ed
I put a new pickup tube in this skidsteer about 3 years ago. I'm familiar with them. My brother heard something rattling in the tank earlier, I had to explain what it was.
3 years ago? Replace it, you got it out on the floor. Do it. LoL
Look at you splurging for a new hook. How will the Mrs. afford a new purse with you throwing nickels around like manhole covers?
I found it in my drawer of random things I've bought at the hardware store. I have a pile of 5/16" and ⅜" grab hooks, but that was the only slip hook I had in my stash. Figured it was meant to be.
I am head back for another day of using my leaky Case . Makes me fill bad seeing yours apart and not knowing when i will get to work on mine.
I've been running a leaky Bobcat for about 2 years. I use this machine weekly, sometimes daily, so the thought of pulling the engine to do this work has kept me from doing it until now. Between the leaks, the poor condition of the belts, the fan drive needed to come out,, and the overall filth on everything, I finally forced myself to do it. Trust me, I'd rather be using it than working on it. I've got work waiting for it when its back together.
At least you shouldn't have to worry it will break down in the middle of a job now.
I am using a 1979 skid steer to load a 1963 truck for some reason breaking down is way done on the worry list.
I take it you're doing your own work and not commercial jobs. My equipment is older but I still try to keep it in good operating condition. When I have an event at my track a breakdown could be devastating. Last year when I had a bizarre fuel filter pinhole leak on the track loader it raised my blood pressure to the limit. It was on the Friday afternoon and the race was Sat. I just made it to the Cat dealer on time to get a new filter. Then it wasn't in stock and I was really panicking but thankfully a warehouse a few blocks away had it. A half an hour later I wouldn't have made it on time.
If i was ever ask to do a high stress job with my equipment i would turn the job down. There are times to stress and times not to . I have never had to but if my skid steer broke down and i needed to do something right now every farm has one around here and i have worked on over 20 of then . The ones i have worked on are for friends that i have known for years the kind of friends that would be mad if they could help and i didnt ask. I have alot of things to stress over but luckly if i get on my leaky skid steer and start getting stuff done i forget about other stuff for a little while.
I had a brake down with my 1963 truck. I got to the job site and was backing up to the trailer i shut it off and it wouldnt start. It was the battery cable end. The battery is under the floor a very bad place for it i have improved it but the tire can spray mud and water on it. I took the cable end off and cleaned it the hold down was also loose .
This project is still on going. Between health issues, work, and finding more parts I needed to buy and wait on, this project is getting a bit long in the tooth. As things came apart, I kept finding more seals, o-rings, and gaskets that needed replacement, which means ordering and waiting as the local dealer has nothing in stock for a 30 year old machine. That said, Bobcat's online parts diagrams and ordering system is top notch. I figured out that I'm close enough to their DC in Illinois that I can order by 2pm and get the parts delivered to my door by 3pm the next day. I'm close to $600 in parts at this point, and I still have at least 4 hoses that will need replacing before I set the engine back in place.
Diligence to details will pay for itself
I'm trying my best.
Keep in mind those are shims where the fuel injection module drops onto the housing, that's how you adjust the injection timing on those engines.
Yep. I bought the service manual and read through it thoroughly before touching the pump. I didn't want to do all this work and then not have it run because I messed up the fuel pump timing.
Lol, this project is still on going. Work, life, etc took precedent. After my last update, planting season started. We made it 2 days into field work and lost two operators. One is a sour ass about everything and quit over piddly nothing. The other had an artificial knee that his body decided to reject and had to have emergency surgery. So, my stuff went on hold for a month while I went to farming with the family. We finished planting, started chopping alfalfa. Then grass hay, then back to my customers work, then chopping alfalfa 2nd cut, etc. I've been working dawn til dusk most days with very little downtime this summer. We've picked up some part time help at the farm and getting by, but one of our seasoned and highly experienced equipment operators has given notice that he's leaving to work for a custom harvest operation full time. We'll start 5th cutting alfalfa in early September, then corn silage, beans, then shelled corn. We're getting by, but not many people want to do farm work anymore. We always had a list of people stopping by and looking for work. Now a help wanted ad runs for months with no replies.
That said, we got 4th cutting done yesterday and it's raining today so I'm in the shop, working on my own stuff. New seals on the cooling blower. Removed the vent tube and cap and cleaned the gunk out thoroughly. The drive pulley shaft was seeping and slinging oil all over inside the machine. I've scraped a lot of heavy, sticky gunk out from inside the Bobcat.
Seal is in
My brother came over and gave me a hand the last couple days. We cleaned, replaced seals, and got the engine mated to the pump and dropped back into the machine. I got a lot of the peripherals connected, but family stuff this evening halted work for the day.
Engine bolted back in, most hoses are connected again. Need to pick up fluids tonight or tomorrow morning as every fluid tank is empty at the moment, except chaincase.
That can't have been very fun. One good thing putting it back in compared to pulling it is no hyd. oil all over the place from taking hoses off.
It wasn't too bad. The hoist with the c frame works very well for getting the engine far enough inside to get over top the mount points. We got lucky, the front left corner lined up right away. Got that corner bolted loosely, then we just had to pivot the assembly and the other 3 went right in. I still got hydro oil all over. The pumps were never drained on removal. They leaked a bunch when I started connecting those lines. Also, the oil cooler still had fluid in it and leaked a bunch as well when I was hooking it up. I'll give it a good degreasing inside when I can drive it outside again.
I'm not getting anything done if I'm not making a mess. Project looks good. Might have all working good by the time the snow flies.
Just in time to plow snow
Well, it's been over a year since I drove it in, and this garage queen still consumes a good portion of my shop. After the brief period in August that I had to work on this, it took a backseat again and sat through harvest and winter untouched. I have a 3 day gap between the job I finished, and one I'm starting on Monday, so this machine is taking precedent. I need the garage space back. I got back to it this afternoon for a couple hours
Glad I'm not the only one with year long projects . . .
A LOT backseats here!!
I've had a lawnmower in pieces in my garage for probably 10 years.
This one needs to move out ASAP as I have to pull the engine from my truck. 2008 Ford F350 V10. Seized a camshaft in the passenger head. Truck isn't worth a reman engine, so I'm going to take a peak at the internals of this one to see if it is salvageable. If not, I'm also looking for a used, 3 valve V10 engine to just swap with. Unfortunately, there aren't many out there. Most are the 2 valve engines. Drive old trucks, get to deal with old truck problems. A close friend is trying to convince me to put a 12 valve cummins in it, but it would cost more to do that conversion than the truck is worth when it's done.
I feel your pain, but I roll older than that. My daily driver is an '85 F150 with a 300 Six. I've neutered what little computer control it had with OBD1, no MAP sensor, no EGR, no TPS, computer controlled dizzy has been swapped to Duraspark ignition, plain Jane Carter YFA 1bbl carb. Pretty much made it an old school engine, and it runs like a sewing machine. No amount of incentive would have me upgrade to a newer model truck, I'll drive this old bullnose to my grave.
I feel ya Willie. Live out of a service truck and only personal vehicle is a 1986 F350 with a (now turbo) 6.9idi and swapped to 5 speed. Bought for under $1800 and it will outlive me. Now if only I'd get off my ass and reinstall the AC system after 10+ years without...
OMG, I used to drive an '86 F350 with a 6.9 cornbinder engine when I worked for a drilling company. Gutless, but like the 300 will run forever! I imagine with a turbo and 5 sp it's a totally different engine, never experienced that pleasure.
The wait will be worth it. It took a couple years to fix my backhoe when the top swing pivot ripped off. I bought a welder and had to figure out a plan for repairing it. It didn't help that I had to do it all outside. I was so relieved it fit back together and the pins went in.
What you wanting for a truck? I feel fortunate to live in the land of rust free local stuff. 7.3's, 300 sixes, 5.9's cummins all still floating around here, running and driving without body parts falling off.
Ford 7.3 in a f250 with 190,000miles on it for $11,000, or a f-450 with 7.3 flatbed and a tommy gate for $8,000. Its got 250k miles. Working or riding in style- take your pick! Either one probably has another 100000 miles in it.
You are just about to the finish line ... and we are cheering you on to victory. !! Go Colson Go !! This reminds me of !! Run Forrest Run !!, but you might be too young to remember Forrest Gump. .
Just praying I do not get sideways on the 99, need it done and the shop cleaned out. Have put off overhaul on that old Allis 180 for six going on seven years and is showing will not do another one. Should have had the Ford done seven years ago maybe eight, likely could have sectioned rockers and corners then and repaired doors with patch skins. Or traded it and not be here now.
I'm not that young, I do remember when Forrest Gump came out. Still one of my all time favorite movies.
I've been looking at trucks all over the rust free zone the last couple weeks, mostly as I broadened my search for an engine. The more I look, the less I want to buy just an engine, but instead just swap out trucks completely. My wife is pushing for me to change trucks and get a crew cab so there's more room for the kids. I keep saying we have an Expedition for that reason, and an extended cab is plenty because an 8ft bed is a bigger priority.
My first truck was an 86 F150 with the EFI 302 and a 4 speed 4x4. That truck had more rust than paint and the seat belts were all for show as there was nothing left of the bottom of the cab for the belts to mount too. But it had one heck of a loud stereo! Ths 302 ran very smooth, never hesitated to start, and had plenty of power for a wet behind the ears 16 year old. My buddies called it the Grandpa Truck because it was slow and I got passed by everyone. I bought it off a guy my dad knew for $200 with money I earned myself. I wasn't upset at all when I sold it and upgraded later on.
Made the mistake of not buying diesel in 97 when bought a F250 ext cab with a 351. 10- 11 mpg any way tried to drive it and our 91 Exploder 4.0 towed the same loads better than it at better economy, Gutless. Pretty truck black with red side panels, was already showing blisters in rear cab corners at 2 years when traded to this 99.
My kids have pretty much outgrown an extended cab. I hate a crew cab but love the kids, so here we are, crew cab/short box Ford. Between the cab and the salt spreader I can't see a thing behind my shoulders at 2am . . .
LOL!! Sad to say we have no kids, Ext Cab was for the Mutts, those as well are no more at least for time being.
Some weekends, goals and reality don't align. I got the back end of the machine all buttoned up Friday evening. Saturday morning, I go out and start filling fluids. Get to the coolant, and after about 6 quarts I hear gurgling from down near the engine somewhere. Start tracing coolant lines and find leak at thermostat housing. Got a loose bolt. Get wrench on bolt and realize its pretty loose, and won't snug up. Crap. Remove hydraulic filter housing for better access and find a stripped bolt hole in thermostat housing. Family time took over Saturday afternoon so I got back to it today. I have a metric helicoil set already. Get ready to drill and realize my drill bit plus right angle drill is too long and I cant get straight on to drill the hole because of the chassis. Drill length plus drill head has to be under 5" to get aligned to hole to drill it straight. Looking for an 8.25mm stub drill bit. Of course, anyone open on Sunday doesn't carry specialty bits like that. I called a machinist friend, he's going to check his cabinet of drill bits tomorrow for me. Some family stopped by unexpectedly this afternoon so I shut down this project for the night day and visited instead.
Tough spot for a heli coil. Remember, gotta have room for the tool to install the heli coil as well. Another option, worth a try, and if it doesn't work you can always go back to the heli coil. Use a metric stud, set the stud in the thermo housing using red loktite, give it plenty of time to cure, red loktite is some pretty strong stuff. Once that's set, install the outlet and instead of using a gasket use permatex "the right stuff" one minute grey RTV. The RTV makes a bond on it's own so you don't have to torque down the stud nut as much as you would have to using a gasket, and between the loktite stud and the RTV you'll likely have to bust that connection with a chisel next go around. And most cooling systems typically are 7 to 14 psi so pressure isn't really an issue. Make sure you clean the glycol well from the components first, that **** is slick as snot.
A retaining compound may be better than red locktite. Another other option might be to use a longer bolt with a nut on the back of the housing. Loctite makes a stripped thread repair kit too that might be good for a thermostat housing that doesn't need a lot of torque.
In those situations i cut down a drill bit as needed, re-sharpen and carry on. I have multiple sets of drill bits, so, no problem. However i only use the cheap bits for that
Have several made just as that from over the years.
I realized that late last night that I could just as well cut off the one I have and keep this project moving forward. For whatever reason, cutting off the one I have to do the task I need never crossed my mind until I was laying in bed. Probably because I never had to do that before, but I'm certainly capable of doing that. I double checked, my helicoil install tool is under the 5" length so I can get it in there. I had not thought about a stud, but I don't know of there's enough material there for a stud to bite on.
Doesn't have to be fully confident thread material there, Loktite fills gaps and makes a bond to the metal. We have two very old Gehl DL-10 telehandler forklifts. Don't get me started how much I hate those machines, but here we are. One of the things I dislike about them is the steering tie rods, ball joints, and tie rod ends are waaaayyyyy too undersize. I have to keep tie rods and ball joints on the shelf because they have a propensity to snap. Enough of that, another problem they have is the tapered tie rod end stud comes loose, next thing you know it's wallowing around in the hole in the steering knuckle. Over time it makes that tapered hole in the steering knuckle wonky and egg shaped, nothing will keep them tight like that. My latest solution, which so far seems to be working, I have a machine shop make me some bushings that are straight on the OD, but tapered like the tie rod end stud on the ID. I bored the hole in the steering knuckle with a carbide tipped annular cutter the size of the OD of the bushing, stopping 1/8" before I busted out the bottom of the hole to give me a stop when inserting the bushing. Used Loktite 7649 primer in the hole and on the OD of the bushing, then applied Loktite 638 high strength retaining compound to the bushing and in the hole. Slipped the bushing in until it hit the stop at the bottom of the hole. Let it sit for days just to insure a good cure. Dropped the tapered tie rod end in the hole, nutted it tight, did two of those on that machine. That was last August, the machine has been out on jobsites since, with our bunch of iron workers who could destroy an anvil with a wet corn cob and those bushing haven't budged. That's on the stress of a tie rod end on a telehandler, that thermostat connection on you engine is miniscule stress/torque compared to that. Sometimes a Loktite repair works wonders. I can't say that it would work for you, but it would be easy to try, and like I said, if it doesn't work you can always go to plan B helicoil repair.
I won't be far from Ace tomorrow, I can see if they have a metric stud in the hardware section.
any auto parts store should have a manifold stud selection.
Would putting a nut on the back of the housing be an option? If you have some thread left or could run a tap so the same size thread could be used, I'd try the Loctite retaining compound with a stud or even the Loctite thread repair so you could use the standard bolt.
I have used Cat Supplied Epoxy/Metal that is drillable and machinable made bad days better on those machines requiring new structure to fasten. Devcon produced it then Cat quit carrying under their label and we used Devcon in place. Stuff was extraordinary but a damn short shelf life.
Had a busy week of demo and prep work for a bathroom remodel, so this sat all week, again. Currently, its waiting on red threadlocker to set before putting it all back together. I couldn't find any automotive studs that had the right length/spacing, but the local Ace had metric threaded rod. I think I probably could have just bought a longer bolt. The original bolt only engaged the top 10mm of threads in the hole. The aluminum boss is 20mm thick, and threaded all the way through. @Welder Dave The only thing stopping me from using a nut under the boss is access. It's already tight accessing the top, and worse squeezing fingers underneath that spot. I looked into that as an option before going with @willie59 suggestion. I could barely get my finger tip in there, let alone anything bigger.
All back together. Off to celebrate my Grandmothers 78th birthday now. Then to finish under the cab tonight.
On the way to healed!!
I didn't get any pictures, but the Bobcat made smoke today! A long afternoon of sorting out little things. Routing wiring harness, adjusting linkages, filling fluids, replacing case drain filters, priming fuel system, etc. Finally got to the point of hitting the key. A bit of cranking, more bleeding of the fuel system, and vroom! She purrs like a Kubota should. I didn't run it long, getting late and kids have a school night. I did a cursory glance for any leaks during the short run, but I haven't spotted any yet. I don't expect leaks, but given the amount of hoses I disconnected, I wouldn't be surprised if there's a dribble somewhere. For now, it runs. I still have to adjust my neutral setting on the hydrostat, but that will be easier to do now that I can lock the arms out of my way. Looking forward to having this back in use. A customer just called, asking if I could swing over and grade his private drive. I think I'll put a couple hours on it at my place before I venture too far from home with it.
Get the machine on stands with the wheels off of the ground to adjust drive neutral. If you attempt to do it with the wheels on the ground you'll just be wasting your time.
I remember, you mentioned it earlier in this thread. I'll have it on stands and get the front wheels off before attempting it.
Great to hear another project finds completion, need to be gathering funds as we speak to build up a Track Loader or a tracked Skid loader purchase. Really need several pieces of heavier machines to get what needs done finished around here.
No AC's though. Too bad you weren't close or you could borrow mine.
Yeah, nothing Orphaned.
I'll be honest, I've never been a big fan of Bobcat skid steers. I've always enjoyed running the Case skid steers more as I naturally like the H-pattern hand controls over Bobcat's foot controls. I have short Achilles tendons, and running foot controls all day puts a lot of extra stress on my feet and ankles and makes for a painful evening if I have to operate for too long. I bought this machine from my dad when he was looking to sell out. It wasn't exactly what I wanted, but it was in fair shape and reasonably priced. I had always thought I'd keep it a year or two, and then move on to what I wanted. Ive owned it over 5 years. Now that I've been through this project and dealt with Bobcat, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another machine from them. Their product support for a 30 year old machine has been astounding. I ordered about $1000 worth of parts over the last year, and everything I needed was in stock and available next day UPS to me for no extra cost. Their online microfiche has been super easy to use, I can verify parts fitment via serial number, order before 4pm my time, and have it next day via UPS Ground. Overall, I am quite happy with their support of an old machine. Now that it doesn't leak oil everywhere, I won't mind taking it to customers' properties again.
I got a bucket on and moved some firewood to stretch her legs today. I have it back on jacks as I have to sort out my steering linkage. The left side is binding when pushing lever forward. Looks like I'll be replacing some of the steering linkage soon. I didn't get much run time due to rain and soupy mud, but engine temp came up to Normal range, volt meter showed upper 13 volts for charging, and no other warning lights came on. I may have to readjust my main belt tension as I heard it screech a couple times when under peak load.
Progress, that's a good thing.
Always will be small pop ups after sit awhile. Hope is a easy fix
I've put 25 hours on this bobcat since I got it back together and this happened. I replaced all three belts while I had the engine out, but I didn't buy OEM for the drive belt. The fan belt and alternator belt came from NAPA, but I bought the drive belt online as it was ⅓ the price of OEM. Now I realize I just got fleeced. Today, I learned a solid lesson in you get what you pay for.
Yep, when that belt goes zip the machine goes dead. Could be a problem with the belt tensioner, that belt has to be tight. There's a pointer that indicates when it's at proper tension, but time and vibration will make that pointer plate go south thereby not giving proper indication, might look at replacing that drive belt tensioner. Also check the fan belt tensioner for wear of the tensioner pivot bushings, pretty common problem.
When I bought my skid steer in 1994 the 753 was new and 743B's were also available. I wondered about the life expectancy and performance aspects of the belt drive. 753 has more HP but the belt drive takes more HP than direct drive so it's not an apples to apples comparison. Salesman suggested a 743B but I didn't buy either. The salesman was also too busy knocking every other machine on the market. Other than stating Bobcat has better resale I never did hear what features make it a better machine over the competition. Why talk about resale when I haven't even bought a machine yet. Who says I don't want a machine for the long run. Do Bobcat's need to be traded in more often?? Salesman was more of a competition basher than anything else. That's not the definition of a good Salesman. It might be good I didn't get an early BICS system. Have heard of several issues with the early versions of it. 30 years later I don't regret my decision.
I replaced both of those tensioner when I had the engine out. My 753 is a 1993 model and has the solid tensioner. The spring loaded tensioner is listed as not compatible for my machine. I don't know if it could be retrofitted in or not. I put a new OEM belt on, tightened it down as firm as I could and set the tensioner. I ran it for 30 minutes or so yesterday and checked it again. It was still tight.
I actually have both of those models of about the same vintage. I'll take the 753 every day of the week. Smoother, quieter, starts considerably easier. My dad bought this 753 in 2003, and I bought it from him a few years back. We have never changed the drive belt until I pulled the engine. It definitely showed some wear from being old, but it kept the machine going. The 743 is a miserable beast to start when it gets near freezing or below. This 753 lit off in a couple seconds with only a bump of the glow plugs at 10°F the other night. The 743 would have been a 5 minute ordeal to get started.
743 was indirect injection and 753 was direct injection so not really a fair comparison other than for starting. The direct injection engines do start so much better and save on glow plugs and starter use. Kubota are great engines regardless though. If I recall the starter is on the inside in a 753 and not easy to get at?
No, they are right when you open the rear door. Easiest starter you'll ever change.
OK, I was mistaken. There was something hard to get at, maybe the alternator that the Bobcat salesman didn't have an answer for. He just stood there with a blank expression on his face after saying everything is easily accessible. Pretty useless as far as sales people go. Are the glow plugs on the outside like the starter? Not knocking Bobcat, they are a good machine. Too bad the salesman was so hung up on the competing machines. The Case salesman wasn't any better and an 1840 was more money. I didn't like the huge blind spots from the loader towers on the Case. The flip down "seatbars" were also a joke. They wouldn't hold anything back.
A thorough reading of the brochure will put you ahead of 99% of the salesmen out there . . .
Alternator is towards the front side of engine. That wouldn't be very fun to swap out. The glow plugs are on the starter side, quite accessible.
Brochures don't normally mention deficiencies or where competing machines might have have better specs.
Sure, but no salesman is going to tell you that part either, even if he knew it.
A really good salesman would mention where a competing machine has something innovative or better features. A really good salesman would also tell you what machines to avoid and what's a better option even if it is the competition. Every OEM has come out with some truly crappy equipment that's best to be avoided. Maybe a machine was rushed into production to give the manufacturer an option or sometimes a machine is over or under engineered. If a salesman sold you a crappy machine he could lose a lot more business than if he was honest and said a competing machine was a better option. Lose 1 sale and keep the customer happy or make a sale and lose a customer. Pretty simple math really.
I have talked to a lot of salesmen, and I have met a couple that I would call good salesmen. The rest are either clueless and ignorant or liars.
Just like customer service it's a small minority that are good sales people.
I put a block heater in my 743.......makes life a little easier. Ed