Already repaired the leaking spool valves thanks to the great thread by Willie. So I get in the machine the other day and the green light is illuminated on the keyless ignition panel. The code will not work and I can’t get the machine to crank. I don’t have instructions for resetting or changing the code, but disconnecting the battery or pulling the engine fuse will turn off the run light but does not reset itself. It seems as if the controller is locked up. So a quick call to bobcat to replace ignition is $555 for the controller switch!. I would like to downgrade to a standard $20 keyed ignition but the keyless has 4 poles and a ground and the keyed cylinder only has 3 poles and a ground. Of course nothing is marked as to which wires are for what. I have a few questions: I assume the extra pole is for the aux relief but the standard keyed system uses a separate switch with a 5 pin connector that’s mounted on the right panel according to the parts diagram. How did this tie in with the keyless system? Has anybody done this before? The bobcat tech told me the machine would have to be brought to bobcat to reflash the computer after I install the keyed switch. What computer? It’s a 1997 773-c series What are the 2 orange terminated wires behind the ignition switch for? I have attached a picture of the ignition switch wiring if anybody is familiar with this please share your thoughts. Thanks
i would think that a std bobcat key switch would work. there are 4 terminals on the back of the switch. red is "batt+" i believe white is "start" i bet if you asked your dealer ( in a nice way) he'd print you out a cab wiring diagram, or at least let you take a look at one and take some notes. you are correct, theres no "flashing" needed. he may have misunderstood, or not been thinking about your particular model machine. on later units, downgrading to a keyed panel may require the dealer to enter the machines master password, if the owner doesnt remember his "owner" password
One of the wires should be for the backlights in the buttons. It should be supplied 12 volts when the lights are on.
Had the same problem going on in a 2001 873 that could never get 100% fixed no matter what was done to it - was very, very irritating. Don't even know how many times the ignition panel got pulled to try and monkey with something; got to the point where you'd give it a few love taps with the bottom of your fist and it would usually work. Decided to have it professionally fixed by the dealer late last summer / early fall; one of the better decisions I've had Was quoted about the same amount for a new electronic set up ointhead so going with the key crank (original desire) was an easy decision, but it was still a good chunk of change. Hope you get yours sorted out.
Thanks for the replies. A standard keyed bobcat switch shouldn't be a problem. The blue wire on left is the fuel solenoid(ignition). The red is hot (battery). The white is the starter (center lug). Now the green with the yellow stripe is a ground (I think)as well as the black wire on the right. The green must be for the aux relief button. I tested these all with a test light and a jumper wire. I don't remember if the keypad had backlights. Here is the back of the new switch.