I have a 1999 773f series and everything worked fine when i bought it in 2017 but not I've lost the ability to engage any auxiliaries I've tested the switch and it appears to be working. I never hear the coil engage like the main hydraulics when I engage them. I have a orange wire on one side of the switch and a red/green wire in the wiring that closes the circuit when I push the button, i never did see power on either side of the switch, this is the momentary switch so I don't know that the circuit stays closed at that point. I've checked all fuses and they all check out. so I wonder where the coil is for this auxiliary switch is and what should the resistance be on this coil for it so be good. I appreciate any and all help with this issue so I can use my grapple again ect.
when you engage the aux hyd button on the dash do the lights stay on steady or is one or both of them blinking? the aux coils are mounted on the control valve under the seat. theere are 3 coils on the valve the center one (between all the tubelines) is the BICS coil, the other 2 are on the top or side of the valve. do not put 12v to them they are 10v PWM
thanks for the tips, as i'm going to go out and check the dash but I don't remember any dash lights blinking but I didn't look at the module mounted behind the seat to set if it's blinking any codes. I could test all three coils for a ohms reading to determine if one of them is bad I'll post what I find when I'm done.
I just started the machine and had no blinking lights on any of the gauges, and the bobcat interlock control system gives me all 4 lights when I in gauge the traction control system. As to blinking lights I only have fuel, hr.s temp on the side of the aux. button
I've looked at the 3 coils 2 smaller ones are on top of the control valve the front one towards the bucket ohms at 11.7 ohms the back top one ohms at 11.3 now the one coil on the side of the control valve is a little bigger than the 2 smaller ones and it ohms out at 10.3 ohms so not sure what to do next. The 2 smaller coils seem to be fairly close in ohms readings so I would think there fine but the bigger one is reading lower ohms, but I have nothing to base the reading against since i don't know what they should read normally. does any one know the part#s for these 2 coils and the olm reading when there new. Thanks
1 last observation the bigger coil in the middle on the side had a much bigger nut on it holding it in place it appears to be completely different than the other 2 coils. Is it a 10v coil as well just bigger?
As one final follow up to your question about the 2 lights that should light up when in gauging the aux. controls. I have neither one of the 2 lights coming on when trying to in gauge the aux. thx again for any further input to solve my issue
if you dont have any indicator lights on the aux then i'd start checking fuses
yea i checked all the fuses and they all tested fine so, having said that if I had a short it should have blown one of the fuses but I only have 8 and they all tested good, so not sure what to do next. I've been looking for any info on the solinoids to see what the resistance should be on them I could switch the 2 coils on top and rule them out but the one you mentioned controls the aux on the side is a loner so I don't have that option for that coil
the "matching" pair of coils are your aux coils. the 3rd coil is commonly known as the BICS coil. if your lift/tilt are working then there's nothing wrong with the BICS coil. typically both coils wont go bad at the same time. you should see small green indicator lights on the little aux panel light up when engaged. if theres an electrical fault one or both could be flashing. but with no lights at all, the wiring or switch could be bad
As to the fuses there are to blocks of fuses 1 block has 4-25 amp fuses brake, lights, accessory, and accressory The other block has3-10 amp fuses, and a 15 amp fuse bics, boss, engine, and the 15 amp is unnamed.
I'll try switching the 2 alike coils to insure that one isn't bad. but as to the switch i have wondered that since the switch is a momentary switch then a hold circuit should hold the circuit closed to use the aux. would you agree.
make sure the pulse width modulator is plugged in under the seat connected to the left side of the frame. I just fixed mine last month because of same issue.
thanks for the help I'll check these issues, so once again thx for both of you offering ideas to solve my issues.