I have a 2011 T770 with joystick controls. I just started occasionally (once or twice a day) getting a D3905 and/or a D3907 (Left Joystick not in neutral) codes. I can wiggle the joystick around and press the "Press to Operate" button again and it will clear up, sometimes takes a couple of times. Not sure if the calibration has somehow gotten knocked out or what? Looked at the manual and it said calibration required only if parts were removed or replaced. Is there something that I can clean or adjust or should I do a calibration from the manual? I hate to take it in, especially for something that I can handle without the having service computer.
I get a neutral code in my NH too from time to time. With age, you can feel some slop in the assembly. I talked to my NH mechanic. He said as long as I can jiggle them and get it to clear. Its not worth paying to calibrate. Will one day require replacement.
Having same issue w/my 2010 T110. Jiggling or swirling it has no direct effect, it’ll clear up when it wants to, takes 1-4 key off & restart cycles to clear. At $1300 a pop, it’d sure be nice if a connector could be cleaned, oiled, or repaired & it’d go away.
I get the same two codes from time to time on my 2007 S250. Depending on which one it is, left or right, I either can move the machine but not the boom or move the boom and not the machine. So far, shutdown and restart and it clears up. i am worried some day it will fail and not clear and leave me in a bad spot. Hopefully, someone on here will come along with a solution.
Just watchedca UTube clip - oeel the boot base up carefully. The part # s/b in the front - if not, turn boot 180 & reibstall. The boot can kerp stick from centering properly. Next poss prob is the base, $600 part. Last resort is stick $1300.
Hi, were you ever able to find a fix for this? I am having the exact same issue with a 2016 t770. Thanks
Not been able to find a fix. I did a calibration and it had no effect. I still see it once or twice a day. I have found if it comes up, I barely pull back and hold it then press "Operate Button" with right hand that it will release the parking brake and clear the codes. Have about 1500 hrs since the problem started, so have just learned to live with it.
I did a calibration with no outcome as well. Mine does just as yours, working after pressing the "Operate Button" after it happens. Unfortunately, once it happens the first time, it happens quicker and quicker after until I let the machine completely cool down. I plan to take it to bobcat sometime in the next month. If I find out anything helpful to add, I will let you know. Thank you for the response.
I have a 2014 T770 and this issue just began recently. A symptom of mine that I haven't seen anyone else mention, is that my machine will drop to an idle, and won't respond to the throttle (pedal or knob) until I shut off and restart. Otherwise, I can press the "operate" button and continue to work at an idle, but that's not helpful when I'm trying to mow, or do anything needing power. :/ Nothing seems to be related to jiggling the joystick, as far as causing the problem, or clearing it. It just happens intermittently, even when the machine is just sitting there and I'm not in it. A service person rotated the boot, but had no effect. Hoping to hear if anyone else finds a real solution.
Mine will temporarily drop to idle and won't respond to the throttle and will usually work after waiting a few seconds for the code to go away and then pressing the operate button again. If it happens more than 2-3 times, it will usually require a shut off and restart to work again. Mine only happens after 20-30 of running. I can run it hard with no issues and then as soon as the engine warms up good it starts happening. Happens about 20-30 mins after cranking, then after the first code, it happens every 1-2 minutes and then every few seconds until I let it sit and completely cool down. I have done a calibration and it did nothing.
Mine has no interaction with the throttle. However I have a tier 3 Kubota mechanical injection, so the computer can't touch the throttle. Also mine only happens when I get in and go to press the "Operate Button".
For what it is worth, my issue seems to come and go with increased humidity and/or rain. Usually, I can park in a 20' connex and seem to rarely have this issue when I follow that routine. When the machine gets left out and gets wet from rain or morning dew, I will have problems until it dries out. That may just an incorrect theory, but it seems to hold true.
I have noticed the same with mine. When I park it under the conex awning, it takes much longer for the codes to appear. Warmer weather also seems to have a negative effect as well. Still haven't found a fix. Replaced left joystick and did the calibration but nothing has changed.
Machines left outside are way more prone to minor corrosion in plugs, that translates to weaker signal and problems. All push together plugs get looser and looser contact connection over time from vibration and aging. I have tightened up a lot of connector plug receivers to find all problems disappeared. Just what I have done over the years. I use a snap on o-ring pick that has a 45 degree bend to do most of them. Simon C
Thank you for the info. I am a bit of a novice when it comes to working on machines like this. Would you mind going into more detail about the use of the o-ring pick? Also, would you happen to know where the most likely connection issue may be on this model of machine? Or maybe a general location. What you explained would make perfect sense in my situation. I pressure washed the engine compartment (heavy mud build-up) when I bought the machine and I shoved the wand into many areas to break up mud. I could have easily loosened a connection while doing so
Any plug ins that have flat male spades and the receiving female spade connectors that are often housed in. These plastic quick connects are where you may find a loose connection. I use the Snap On 45 degree o-ring pick to tighten up the female half that the male half pushes into. I just bend them back slightly so the male will still push in but not too tight. Hope you understand. If you dont, get a male and female spade connector and squeeze the female end a hair too much, and you wont be able to push the male into. Principle is to have a decent tight connection. Simon C
My post on this tread was several years ago, but recently my problems have gotten worse. My left joystick has all but quit. I was getting 39-13 which means the grip (handle) is not communicating. My dad had a brand new handle from bobcat that wasn't installed so I put that on to troubleshoot. No change. I would also sometimes get a 39-16 code which means the base wasn't communicating. We had a used base from some years past that was the correct model number (6697904) so i put that in to test. You have to either repin the base or buy or make a female x female plug to make the new one work. After installing it, everything worked fine for a couple of weeks. I went through the calibration procedure. I thought my problem was fixed, but then I got 39-28 which means left joystick internal failure. Not too surprising, as I don't really know the history of this joystick base. I put the old one back in and the old codes resume. The only thing keeping me from buying a new joystick or sending mine to iSOCell is I can hit the joystick with my palm enough times and it will work just fine. As soon as I turn on the machine, I pull back on the left joystick and if hear the backup alarm, I know everything will work as long as I keep the machine running. Turn it off and it usually goes back to its antics. Can anyone tell me if that sounds like an actual joystick failure or should I still be looking at wiring? I have already ohmed all the wires in the joystick part from the last connector to the potting in the joystick base. I have not yet taken the harness apart in the machine that connects the two joysticks to the controller on the right side of the machine.
Sometimes we can get fooled by OHM meter tests cause if only a strand of wire remains it will ohm meter test perfect. Once that one wire gets hot, things can start to drop out. If a person has schematics and can disconnect both ends of a wire and use a 1156 Bulb with a pigtail to hold the bulb in and run power from the battery positive through the bulb and out of it into the wiring harness with end of harness going to battery ground post. If bulb works fine after 10 minutes, the wire tested is good, if the wire pops then you know where the weakness was. Its one way to test. That bulb draws 5.2 amps so will not damage a 18 gauge wire unless the wire is faulty. Simon C
Got it. Thank you for the added info. I'll do some research on where the most likely problem area might be. Will post an update if I manage to fix anything
I managed to find a used (but working) SJC on eBay for around $300, paid bobcat dealership $160 to program it and everything seems to be working great. Have only used it for about 2 hours at a time but haven't had a joystick code since. It was happening consistently within 30-45 mins of runtime, prior. Just wanted to throw this out there in case someone else was having a similar problem. I wasn't able to find much beyond this tread.