Hi guys I'm looking for some help on this piece of equipment. We pulled the engine out, so we could do some welding on the chain case, nothing was done to the engine. After, we put the engine back in, we tried to start it and it would only start for a few seconds before it'd shut off. This happened a couple of times then it wouldn't start at all. We took off the hydrostatic pump belt and tried to start only the engine. Now it cranks ok, spins ok, but it still doesn't start. We looked at the codes and it said that the salonoid shut-off is short circuited. We checked the fuses, the relays, the plugs, and everything seems ok. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Welcome to HEF Visi14. :drinkup What codes(s) popped up?
Thanks willie59. The code that popped up was M1307.
Code M1307 is fuel solenoid hold coil open circuit, the ECU is seeing an open circuit going to/through the hold coil. Could be a broken wire, poor terminal connection in fuel solenoid harness, or internally failed hold coil winding in fuel solenoid. Does your fuel solenoid have two wires or three wires at the solenoid (red/black/white), and I mean at the solenoid, not the solenoid harness connector.
Thanks again willie59. There is 3 wires at the solenoid. When I turn the ignition key, I don't have any juice coming. Is it supposed to come when you turn the ignition key on or no? And can I disconnect the solenoid and perform any tests on the fuel injection pump?
If it has the external fuel solenoid with a linkage going to a lever on the injection pump, then you should be able to pull the linkage in and tie it off with tie wire and make the engine run. If it has the solenoid mounted to the end of the injection pump and linkage is internal, that works different. If the solenoid has three wires they should be red, white, and black. You could start by testing the coils inside the solenoid with an ohm meter. The black wire is ground for the internal coils, the red wire is the hold coil, and the white wire is the pull coil. Connect an ohm meter to the black and red wires, you should read 0.33 ohm. Connect ohm meter to black and white wires, you should read 24.5 ohm. I don't know if you can test power on the harness connector with connector disconnected, the ECU would see an open circuit and shut it off (you would hear beeps from the alarm). The short story of how it works; when you turn on ignition (key or keypad), the controller in the cab sends an input to the main ECU to power up the ignition (fuel solenoid). ECU then does two things, 1) it powers up the fuel relay to send battery voltage to the white wire (pull coil) of solenoid and only stays powered up for a few seconds, and 2) it sends voltage directly to the red wire (hold coil) of solenoid. If there is a broken wire, bad terminal connection, or failed internal circuit inside the solenoid, the ECU will see any of these as an open circuit and shut it down.
Thank you very much. I will look into it again on Monday and I'll let you know how it goes. Have a good thanksgiving!
if the solenoid tests good there are several things must happen for the fuel solenoid to energize. key on, engine cranking, 1 the controller has to see feedback from the starter 2 controller must see an eng speed signal. fuel pull fuse and relay has control of the the solenoid for approx 3-5 seconds, then the controller takes over i suspect since the engine ran before you pulled it, check around the fuel solenoid connector on the eng harness side for a broken/pinched wire. :drinkup
Thanks crewchief888. I checked the wires on the plug connection to the solenoid and they look fine. There's also tens of wires rolled together so it's hard to follow the wires, but I will do that. In the meantime, during the cranktime there's black smoke coming out of the exhaust. If the fuel doesn't go to the piston, should there be black smoke? I replaced the air filter and its new. I took the air filter completely out to check the turbo and it looks fine.
Also, I was wondering if you know if on the fuel suction line is there any one way valves from the tank to the hand pump? Because when I use the hand pump, I disconnect the return line and the fuel comes completely out when I pump, so that confused me a little. Thanks again.
the primer bulb has a flapper inside it, but if you are pumping fuel all the way to the return hose , you should be good to go. you checked the intake side, but you didnt leave a rag or something stuffed in the exhaust did you? :beatsme :drinkup
Thank you again. The reason we checked the intake and took the air filter out was to make sure there was no clog, rags, etc. As I mentioned before the smoke comes from the exhaust during the cranking, but it doesn't start. I also looked on the turbo side and it's clean and the turbo spins ok.
just trying to make sure you dont have the exhaust pipe or muffler plugged with anything. we've seen baffles in the mufflers break loose and plug the outlet, engine usually will not start. but since you are throwing a code for the fuel shutoff, repair that 1st. :drinkup
Thanks again for your help. Just to clarify, I am a little confused as to why there's black smoke coming during the cranking if the fuel shutoff does not work, and fuel is not getting there? Anyway, thank you again and I will check it back again on Monday.
the black smoke has got me wondering what else is going on..... :drinkup
Yes, that is puzzling. Do you think, since the engine has been off for sometime now and the battery has been out ,that I may need to reset the ECU? I don't have a service manual for it so I don't have much information on, so thank you for any help and suggestions you might have. If you know where I can get a wiring diagram for it, that would help a lot.
What's the machine serial number?
Thank you willi59, appreciate any help you can give me. The serial number is A3LJ35090.
Drat, the manual I have is for a 5305 s/n machine, not A3LJ. :Banghead
no need to "reset" anything. if you have the fault code problem solved and it's no longer an active fault, removed the muffler and see if it will start. if you still have an active fault, you need to fix that 1st. usually a (polite) phone call to your local bobcat dealer's service dept will get you some info, they should be able to fax or email a copy of the wiring diagram, and the troubleshooting info from BATS. :drinkup
The cranking and replacing the air filter, that has all been done after I took the muffler out and it still was an issue. Thank you though again for your help, and I'll let you know how it goes on Monday.