Hi All, When I hit "run", I can hear a relay click under the seat, but no beep and the pad does not come alive. I then hit "stop" and I hear a click under the seat again. I can hit "run", get the click and no action and then hit the start button and the machine will run for a few seconds. I keep messing with the buttons "run" then "stop" and then eventually I hit "run" it beeps and stays alive. I can then hit start and the machine works flawlessly. What the heck is going on with this right sided panel? Thanks.
Check your relay and your fuse panel really well. Unblot it and pull it out and inspect the back side also. Check For corrosion and such. If your all good there I Usually get my volt meter and a test light. I’ll get a piece of wire and hook it it to my start solenoid and run it into the cab so I can see it. I’ll back probe the starter relay wire behind the fuse block. Try starting it. If you have voltage on your meter but your test light is not lightning up you have a problem from the block to the starter circuit. No voltage on your meter you have nothing from your panel to the relay. You said you have a click but that’s just the relay magnet making contact you still have to send the signal through the relay to engage the solenoid. So no power on your meter when pushing the start button is most likely your control panel going out. It happens. You can send them out and have them repaired or just get a new one. I just had my keyless deluxe panel repaired since one of my buttons failed and I couldn’t access the system to change codes. Cost me 350 bucks to have it fixed and about a week.
Thank you. I really appreciate your advice. I will be digging into this shortly. I can't believe this panel with just 3 buttons would be so expensive. But, it seems like it is. I will follow your guidance and hopefully find something simple. Thanks.
Isocell out of Chicago is the company to use for repair if you need it.
I have not gotten a chance to work on this yet, but I did discover that the 3 button panel can be purchased for $228. So, that is a lot better than the idea of having to pay about $1k for the whole right panel. The issue is intermittent. It worked fine when I used it the other day. I'll report back when I dig into this. Thanks again.
Keep us posted for sure. But I do advise getting it repaired or replaced ASAP. Mine worked fine all day till I shut it down to do move some stuff. Then it was dead in the water in a horrible spot and was a pain to get moved. Luckily the backhoe was handy for that.
I got a little further, but not much. There is a steady 12.5v at the red/white wire on the 3 button start switch. Hooking a battery charger and getting up to 13.5 volts did not really make a difference. The button misbehaved for several attempts and then all of a sudden worked damn near flawlessly for about 30 hits in a row. However, every few hits of the button caused there to be a sound at a relay that is different. Instead of a simple click, I get a quick double click like a shorting type of noise and when that happens the panel lights up and then for a fraction of a second gets dim and re-lights. It does NOT fail, but it does have this dim then re-light moment. At no point during this does the voltage crap out. It stay a pretty constant 12.5v. I tried to remove the fuse panel and I can only get it part of the way out. There is a zip tie around one side of the bundle of wires and I am not sure if I need to pop that zip tie in order to get the harness to come out. I wanted to check with you guys first before I cut this zip and regret it. Any ideas about getting the panel out or the shorting type of noise at the panel? I was able to get one side of the panel out and take a peek and it looked pretty clean, but I was unable to get a real good look.