Hello! I have a Bobcat S175. The codes it is showing are 04-21 05-21 09-21 and 11-06 11-06 is a seat bar short to ground the others are fuel level hydraulic level and oil level all high The seat bar light on the BICS flashes and when the key is powered on and it does a series of beeps, not like the two normal ones. I have replaced the fuel solenoid, replaced the battery and the power cable to the 110amp fuse off the positive cable, also replaced that fuse. All fuses in the box between the legs are good and relays seem to be good had two new ones I swapped around with the same results. When I jump the FUEL relay from top to bottom with a wire the solenoid will hold open but it will not hold open with the relay in while trying to starts, it opens for a split second on the first crank but that's it. I cleaned the ground from the seat bar through the back of the cab The Bobcat will run with the solenoid held open and it will drive with the traction lock override engaged, but the foot pedals will not operate. Any help on trouble shooting this is greatly appreciated as I am stumped with it. Thank you!
You need to put a meter on your battery connections and verify the alternator isn't over-charging, anything over 14 to 14 1/2 volts causes the main controller (ECU) to go nuts. If charge is within proper range, check the wiring harness good for signs of rodent damage. As for the fuel solenoid, the relay in the fuse box controls the "pull" coil of the fuel solenoid, the relay is controlled by the main controller and only stays powered up momentarily (a second or two) until the fuel solenoid has time to engage, then the "hold" coil takes over, the hold coil is controlled directly by the main controller, no relay on the hold coil circuit. Seat bar sensor short to ground is typically just that, seat bar sensor has gone poof, again, maybe alternator cooking things, or chaffed portion of wiring causing short to ground, again, maybe rodent having dinner with wiring harness insulation.
As a guess the short to ground is causing the other sensors to report invalid readings due to the voltage being pulled down by the short....
It's quite possible, I'm not sure. I do know that the Bobcat main controller is a sophisticated gadget. Typically when you get codes for out of range high on the 9 volt sensory circuit it's either caused by alternator excessive charge or the main controller is flipped out. But I can't say for certain as I've never experienced all of the faults that can affect the main controller. But just to let you know how sensitive they are, or maybe attentive, I once worked on an S205 that the main controller would shut everything down, just turn the whole machine off. I beat my brains out trying to find the fault. Turned out to be a shorted power wire in the aux wires going to the cannon plug on the left side boom. The main controller didn't necessarily control this wire, but it could sense something was wrong in the electrical system outside of its control and to protect itself it just shut off the electric controls to the machine.
Write the serial number of the machine
I put a meter on the battery while it was running its reading at right around 13.96 volts on the extra terminals that were not hooked up to power and ground. As far as I can tell the wiring harness looks to be free from chew marks but some places I cant really see it with how tight it is. Does that 13.96V seem like it is too high? The alternator is probably four years old. Although it did sit in the barn over winter and that is when the problem arose, i've still yet to find any chew marks. But that seems to be likely cause. Also i'm not getting adequate volts to the fuel shut off solenoid connection and the nylon seems to be undisturbed. Thanks!!
I think 13.9 is within accepted range, crewchief888 would know for sure. Does that engine have the external fuel solenoid with linkage? Three wires (red, white, black) going to solenoid? If yes, the black is ground, the red is the hold coil wire, white is pull coil wire (only gets power for a few seconds from fuel relay). You have to probe the red wire to test it, if you disconnect it the main controller will see an open circuit and throw an alarm, possibly disabling that circuit. Have you raised the cab to do an inspection? Yes, the harness is tucked in a few spots, especially along the left side on top of the hydraulic tank. And you may want to remove the two steel panel plates to the left of your left foot, typically that's where the main controller is hidden and check the wiring in that area as well. Rodents can get in some tight spots and do considerable damage to a wiring harness.
Yes it has the external fuel solenoid on the back side of the engine where the access door is. I probed the wires and all three of them showed adequate volts 12.65 but the red wire only shows voltage when I probe it with a the black on the meter with red hooked to the power on the battery. Otherwise it shows .01 when probed with the red from the meter while the black on the meter is hooked to the battery ground. Pardon my ignorance I am no electrician by any means. HA. I pulled the wire harness out by the hydraulic tank underneath the cab. All that I saw looked to be unmolested by rodents. I pulled out the large clip with a nest of wires all connected. I assume that's the controller for the harness? Is there any main grounds to check that could be affecting the seat bar not getting a ground besides the one that mounts directly to the motor from the batter with 3 ground cables on it? I'm starting to assume that it could be any wire anywhere on the machine either corroded or chewed that could be throwing off the controller and throwing the series of codes. Thanks again for your responses.
With the codes you have of several sensor circuits (9V circuits) with "out of range high", meaning, too much voltage on those circuits, there's a good possibility that these faults are causing the main controller to intentionally not apply power to the red wire at the fuel solenoid, basically preventing you from running the machine until the faults are resolved. Again, I don't know how the main controller is configured internally and how it reacts to every situation, and Bobcat keeps that information as top secret as building a nuclear bomb. Maybe crewchief888 will spot your thread and offer some advice.
That would be great as I am stumped with it. All wires leading to the main controller or computer to the left of your leg seem to be good. I borrowed the control box from my friends t250 with the same controls and it seemed to have the same issues. I was kind of leaning toward that controller where you unlock the machine being bad beforehand. All wires still seem good but I'm wondering where the red main that comes off the battery goes to? Does it go to a terminal or just split into all the smaller wires? I wanted to check that connection for corrosion if it bolted up somewhere. Stumped still as of now! If I make any progress I will share. Thanks
as willie stated, all the sensors are on the same 8v circuit, the problem could be one of the sensors have failed, or all the sensors are good, wiring problem, probably something you'll never see without pulling the entire harness, or the controller 8v supply is bad. disconnect the eng oil pressure, and charge pressure senders and make sure they are not leaking oil into the connector. if they look good, check to see what the voltage is at the connector, with the engine running, you should have a steady 7.9-8.1 volts. most of the time i see the controller as being the problem. controller replacement and programming isnt a DIY kinda deal. it's time to call the dealer. the pos cable that runs to the 100A fuse runs forward through the main harness, the splits off to feed the fuse/relay box. it really sounds like you have several problems, the 8v circuit as one, and no hold signal to the fuel shutoff solenoid. it's start looking in the fuse box, and along the frame where the harness is secured. ive seen harnesses droop and sag where it's secured, and over time a wire or wires will rub through or breal all the strands and leave the insulation intact. :drinkup
Hello! I asked the truck number, because of the circuit are different check the connection of sensors to the ground. Errors indicate a lack of supply. Check the connection near the negative terminal of the battery. Sorry for the bad english.
Thanks for the reply. So when a controller is replaced its a dealer issue? I'm referring to the one with the green unlock button I tried my friends controller off his t250 they both have foot controls. I'm not sure if the model makes a difference. But we had Similiar issues with his box on. I've got most of the panels by your feet removed exposing that computer. Next step is expose the whole harness or try to replace the controller. The dealer really isn't in my budget but it would make things much easier. I hear the top left controller make like a grinding noise when I turn the key on. I have thought it was the controller but after I tried that t250 controller is had similar issues. Thanks
Thanks I can't make those words out from my phone. Will have to look on the computer later.