Hello, I recently purchased my first track steer, a 2006 Bobcat T250. It has high hours but has a new engine and seems to be relatively well cared for mechanically. I've put about 10 hours on it, piddling around and learning the machine, fixing what comes up and getting the machine up to good working order and improving its condition. On to the problem. It seems that the previous owner did not care to use the foot pedals, as the foot wells were filled with dirt and the pedals were completely covered. I cleaned out the dirt and sprayed down the pedals with PB Blaster and they finally freed up. Prior to the problem starting I had flipped the ACS switch but had not been able to move the pedals as they were still locked up. Therefore, I've always used the hand controls. While trying to level my driveway yesterday I decided to give the foot controls another try. I flipped the ACS switch, and the pedals unlocked for the first time. However, with the foot controls I was only able to lift the arm and drop the bucket, I could not get them to go the other way. So I flipped the ACS switch back to hand control, and still I could only lift the arm and drop the bucket. I have not been able to get either the foot pedals or the hand controls to lower the arm or lift the bucket. I've re-calibrated the hand controls a few times, checked the fuse, and unplugged the foot switches (not the lock solenoids) and still the problem persists. There are no codes present, except when the foot pedals switches were unplugged. When they were unplugged the codes show the open circuits, which is logical. In addition, now what little controls do work, they don't work correctly. The arm or bucket only moves with the initial movement of the lever or pedal, it will not move continually if the lever or pedal is held. I'm thinking the next step is to start pulling panels to more carefully inspect wiring. I've looked over the wiring while working on it before, but not to the depth that I think Im about to have to get into it. Anybody have any ideas? Could the ACS controller have gone out? Wouldn't I have a code if that was the case? I have disconnected the battery for a couple hours with no effect on the symptoms. One more thing which I feel is unrelated. The machine has the deluxe keyless control panel, which shuts off intermittently killing the machine. I plan to pull it and sent to Isocell for repair, but would like to get the control problem figured out before I do that. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
I had similar issues recently on my T200. Kinda. I had funky RH control would work then not, machine would turn on, sometimes not. Started digging into the harness (got ahead of myself) and found voltage drop when the key was turned to on and more drop when I attempted to start the machine (it would not crank or engage shut off solenoid) Battery load tested good, power probe showed resting 12.8v. Cool. Back probed all the plugs, working backwards from the place of issue (display screens I figured) only to find myself checking resistance at the battery cables. i found that ONE of the TWO leads coming off the positive side of the battery (the one going up to the 100a mega fuse) had high resistance. The lost or corroded (bad) connection was inside of the lead battery cable terminal end at the Battery. No visual corrosion or fault/swelling. No sign ti the naked eye. Replaced battery cable, everything is right back to normal. Lesson: if a test for voltage drop shows a significant drop in voltage... start at the battery...then cables...etc...lol
Flowing current through a connector is more accurate for sure to find a weakness in a cable versus an ohm test that will show okay with the smallest path through the connection. Simon C
Thanks for your suggestions guys, I appreciate the help. Just thought I'd update. I replaced the BICS valve and solenoid, and repaired several chaffed wires. Still the same, so one by one I started pulling anything (valve, solenoid etc) off the valve block. I found the pilot valve to have a broken backup washer, which sent some debris into the valve block. I flushed the valve block, and it worked correctly for about 45 seconds... Then it showed a tilt actuator shorted to ground. I knew it wasn't wiring related since I had removed and repaired my entire harness, so I replaced the tilt actuator. Its now worked fine for about 3 hours of operation. Hope this helps someone. Thanks again.