Hello guys. My first post. I have a 2008 T320 that wont go into fast mode. No codes, Bobcat did not fix. Wondering two things? What could it be? I went through and disconnedted all connectors, cleaned them with Deoxit Gold. Have not tried it yet because I am cleaning up under the bab. Second thing, where can I get a shop manual for this unit. It has joysticks, not levers. G series
Local bobcat should print you off schematic page. That’s really all you need. Follow hoses out of drive motor to block with selonoid in it. One will be brake one will be two speed. Check for 12 volts when two speed is engaged. Controller is by your left foot. Use schematic to check input from joystick to controller and out put from controller to solenoid
Thank you Mbar for quick respons. They want to sell me the manuals and wont print off schematic page. I guess I will have to just ohm them out to see if I can find a bad solinoid. Are you saying there is one solinoid for fast and one for slow speed or there is a seperate line only for fast speed to the motors? My 331 mini x has the seperate high speed line actuated by a solinoid. Attachine the parts exploded view of the block. Do you happen to know which is which?
The block you are seeing there is the main control you need to trace your lines coming out of the motors and it will lead you straight to it. And no you only have one solenoid for high speed the other is for brake. If your are doing repairs yourself and not familiar with the working on these machines a shop manual is money well spent
Thank you sir. I am an electrical engineer and familiar with hydraulics, pneumatics and controls. I did purchase the full shop manuel, and it is definetly money well spent. The solinoid coils should be aournd 10.5 ohms. I am restoring the unit, and will check them out this weekend, weather permitting and let you know what I find.
Is this machine new to you? Did it work at one time? Not all T series machines from that era have 2 speed. Have someone check the factory build with ser #.
As a side note bobcat controllers are notorious for loosing a single function. If you have to replace the controller it will have to be programmed once on the machine.
If the machine has the deluxe panel you might check that 2 spd has not been locked out
I tested the solinoids they were all areound 10 ohms, so likely not a bad coil. The machine is new to me and I bought it with the fast mode not working. The bobcat shop had the unit and they said they changed the controllers out and it made no difference. Still no fast mode. However, my experiance with the depth of knowledge of the technicians iat this bobcat place is that they are rgood procedure readers and parts changers, but not really good technically. Bobatak, have a procedure on how to enable fast mode? That may help.
if you have this type of display then the following should help
Thank you sir. Mine is older. 2008
You need verify that you have 12 volts going to the coil when high speed is activated. Also changing a controller will not answer this question unless two speed is turned on on the new controller. If you know your controller has two speed activated and you have a wiring schematic and a meter this is about a 20 minute job to find the problem
More info. The codes that are thrown are both swash plates are out of range. Traced wiring and disconnected conectors, cleaned with Deoxit Gold and reconnected. Ohmed out wiring from swash plate sensor and servo valve connnections to computer.. No issues. Drew up the pin out to computer for later refrence. Could his error cause it to not go into high speed.? Going to check 12v to HS coil by doing as you said and tracing the motors to the right switching valve. Will let ya konw
Checked all the coils, they are all around 10 ohms. No issues. Wiring traced back to controller. All ok. Followed the motor hoses to a different than the one I showed above. It does have a solinoid on it and the solinoid checks 10 ohms. Two codes thrown up that are left. Swashplate left and swashplate right out of range. Highly unlinkely both having issues, could it be it needs to be calibrated? Will stry high speed test to see if I get 12 v and let you knoow
Disconeeced the coil on the smalll lines that come from the motor. Well, thats the Parking brake. It had 5 volts on it all the time. Reconnected it and the Parking light quit flashing. As for the speed, hitting the rabbit increases up to 49 and wont go higher. The swash plates sill show out of range
Also, since this is a new machine to me I dont know the operator or master code. Is there a default one I can use to get into the machine? Do I need it to calibrate?
Worth a try to calibrate, if nothing else the failure code might shed some light. Although might not be able to calibrate with swashplate codes. With your speed limited to 49% its possible its speed limited due to swash plate codes? You don't need master code to calibrate. Only way to get is to take your serial number and proof of ownership to a dealer.
Attached are the drawings. I do not see any solinoid for high speed speed as you said MBAR. The SN is A7wp12266 with the sjc option.
Last two
I rean the hydrostatic pump calibration. During calibarion everything worked and the tracks ramped up to fast in both directions and ramped back down and stopped as the procedure said. However at the end of the calibration, the last step is to press the left joystick in the reverse positon till you hear beebs then reverse calibration is complete. Then "There will be an audible beep and the PRESS TO OPERATE LOADER and TRACTION lights will go out and the SEAT BAR and LIFT AND TILT lighst will remain on" I got the audible beep but the lghst did not go out. 75-39 and 75-41 swash plate sensor out of range high still in error. No fast speed. HELP>>>>>>PLEASE
New code now 75-72 pump not calibrated
Anh idea guys? I am suck.
Pulled track to look at motors and repair worn steel. Found both motor speed sensors not connected. How could this unit run wihout them hooked up? Also the controller on the right side back of motor facing the motor from the back is nto hooked up to anything.
I don't know that I can help you much other than to say that the motor speed sensors are not connected on my S250 either. I believe there is a sticker on the connector saying something to the effect of "speed sensors not used after software ver.xxx"
Thanks JBrady. I went ahead and made up a harness and connected them then ran the calibration procedure again. Got a code DR03 now, so probebly not used. Still gettting the swash plate codes, and this time after the calibration, the unit wont move a all. Going backwards here... urgg. Any and all advise would be much appreciated. I really dont want to pull the motor and pump
Pulling motor to look at hyd pump and swash plate bushings for sensors
Well, went ahead and pulled the motor and replaced the pump with a new Bosh/Rexroth. Hooking up hoses this weekend. Will let you guys know.
DR03 is not a code related to your problem DR is for Drive Response DR can be set to DR01 for slow response on drive DR02 is medium response DR03 is more sensitive response
Thanks guys. I just finished replacing the hydrostatic pump and the right hand final drive (was leaking around seal) All case drains replaced, all hoses replaced. Unit calibrated with no codes!!! On the new rex roth pump, the connector is way different and I had to buy triangle plugs from amazon, soldered and connected them. I also had to buy the plugs for the motor speed sensors from amazon and make a jumper harness. Everyting seems to work but two things...Imagine that: 1. The new drive motor I put on is running backwards opposite the other. I am sure the hoses were put on right. The servo wiring plugs for the hydrostatic pump checked, no issues found. You cant get these backwards. 2. When I replaced the hydrostatic pump, dropped the pully and the sheave broke off two small pieces. I filed them and put the sheave back on. When running, it seems the pump vibrates more than the old one did. Could a little bit of mass cause the imballance? Where can I find another one. They are pricy at Bobcat and cant get ahold of them elsewhere.
Well guys. Checked behind my son. he had the hoses reversed on the new drive motor. . As for the vibration, still a quesiton if you have any experiance
Wouldn’t think that would cause that much vibration. Bearings ok in tensioner. Motor mounts correct and tight ? Hydrostat mounted correctly?
I wouldnt think so either. I checked (but will double check again). Bearings ok on tensioner, motor mounts correct and tight. Hydrostat mounded correctly there is no other way to mount it. I have access to a vib pen. Any idea what is good or bad in mills?
Any idea how to set this idler stop (39)? Is it only used for locking the idler to change the belt?
also how do the engine mounts go onto the machine. The exploded picture does not show it attaching to the frame, just the engine/pump frame, not the machine frame mounts. We mounted them with the bolt and rubberized washer on one side of the machine frame, then the big rubber between engine frame and machine frame. When this was done, the spacer was too long to allow the bushing to compress.
installed noew shieve for power band belt. Vibration calmed down some. Have new engine mounts to install will keep you guys informed. The other issues previously written about have all been corrected with the fixes I have written.
Hey guys. Quck question. How to the motor mounts install? I want to make sure they are on right. Is the red line where the bottom frame is, so the bolt is the only thing on the frame side?