Does anyone else have a transport lock on their TLB? Also what is the best way to store the hoe? Retracted position? Retracted with transport lock activated? The boom extended resting on the ground? Some other way??? I always drop the front loader bucket down. What about the outriggers. up, down?
I have and use a transport lock when I park my machine. I am sure there will be varying positions on this. The reason I use the transport lock is to keep the hoe bucket out of the lawn...just where there is room for now to park it. As far as the stabilizers, everywhere I worked with hoes, they were stored with stabilizers up. I do the same on my own. Front loader on the ground with the bucket tipped slightly to let the a=water run out...yes, mine is stored outside .
I use my transport lock anytime the hoe is not in use. Not sure if there are different designs but the NH version is hydraulic and operated by a switch so no reason not to pull the boom up and flip the switch. My boom will leak down a little so to unlock it I will have to pull it back before releasing the lock. I also keep my stabilizers up. I have one that leaks down so I hook a chain on it when I park the machine.
For me I have front bucket down and slightly tilted, stabilizers up, and boom extended about halfway out. This retracts most of the cylinders IMO.
Our 675s has the switch operated boom lock, but the newer LB110, and the LB95 had a leaver and linkage for the lock. The New Holland also locks when you turn off the key. I always used the boom lock on the power locks, but put the boom down for the manual. Just in case the kids get in and manage to get it unlocked. I always unlock the boom when working. no matter what I am doing. I find if the boom tends to leak off, it will beat itself on the locks while you are driving, or using the front bucket.
Like I said, my boom leaks down a little. If I leave it unlocked and forget about it it will end up on the ground. Once it gets pressure on the lock hooks it won't unlock until I pull it back up off the hooks.
Does yours not close when you turn the key off?
I was always taught to put the hydraulics on the ground when the machine is unattended, the idea was to prevent accidents if a kid got on the machine and started pulling levers. The boom lock would prevent that from happening too. Now when I first started running machines there weren't a lot of closed cabs, if you were lucky there was an open canopy. Not sure if it's necessary with a locking cab but I got used to doing that way.
x2. De-energize everything. If a kid can figure out a way to get hurt, s/he will.
I had wobble sticks so I always made sure the boom and bucket was grounded for that same reason.
I have a cable cut off on mine I use every time I shut the machine off. Also keep everything locked up. Double and triple protection.
It does but if the boom isn't raised all the way up the hooks don't engage. IF the boom is all the way up the lock will engage when I turn the key off. Once the weight of the boom IS engaged with the hooks they won't release no matter the switch position until I lift the weight of the boom off the hooks.
I'm another that locks the boom up when not in use, my NH lb75b has a lever, and presumably a cable, to lock and unlock it. I also uncurl the bucket and extendahoe it out until it's barely touching the ground, and both buckets point down, so water doesn't collect. My stabilizers stay up. I also park outside, for now. I'm hoping the barn will be done by mid-February.
I've decided to just leave mine locked up when not in use. The guy before me left it down as the lock was broke and he never fixed it. It's a manual lock that is pulled back by a lever. The lever is connected to a shaft slid through a collar that has the linkage bolted to it. The pin that goes through the collar and shaft was out of the hole (i.e. someone tapped the pin out with a punch, but never tapped it back in). This meant only the shaft rotated but not the linkage. Two things amaze me: 1. Something so small as a pin can render an entire system useless. 2. The guy before me who was slowly but surely breaking everything useful on the backhoe and never fixing it because in his mind there was an alternative, such as (who needs a lock), just lay the boom on the ground. Or I don't need to fix the heat because I don't use it when it's cold. Or destroying every interior plastic cover in the cab because you need to get below them to fix something and covers are not necessary to operate the BH. Or leaving the battery cover off, or engine cover etc. I am thankful he at least kept all these parts, albeit scattered across his yard.
I'm kind of in he same boat as you, Lord willing I'll have a pole barn built this spring. I need to figure out the height of my boom (retracted) so I know how tall my door needs to be.
I had a 3 section open front Carolina barn built by Carolina Carports in May of 2020. I had the center section walls done at 14 ft and side sections at 9 ft. The cross beam is a little under 14 ft. I don't think the design would allow for a roll up door at that height. My boom is a hair over 13 ft locked.
X2 what Steve said. I was taught to put all hydraulic implements on the ground for safety reasons. A boom lock does the same for the backhoe. Another reason to put buckets, booms and blades down is to keep the machine from moving while parked. Belt and suspenders type of thing.
Mine is the same as NH575E, a hair over 13 feet. My building will be 16 feet tall, at the base of the roof, and have two 12' x 14' doors.
old thread but relevant in these fast moving, exciting, modern times. I recently acquired a Bradco 511b skid steer backhoe with a boom lock as well as a swing lock. The outriggers are not lockable. I dropped the backhoe attachment at a site and ignored the locks idea being extended rams is the most relaxed position for them. Outriggers down, boom was down, stick tucked, bucket curled so rams are extended. However when I went to reconnect the hydraulics they were pressurized quite a bit and I had to crack open the hydraulic lines with a wrench to relieve pressure. Pain in the arss. Anybody serious experts with advice on this topic? I do not have time to relieve pressure on the disconnects with wrenches every time. I know that with my root rake if you drop it with the grapple down you get rid of residual pressure. Looking for advice on how to drop this hoe.
Hooking the lines together will help. Also, if the unit is sitting in direct sunlight, the heat will expand the fluid in the hoses, this causes the pressure in the lines. No choice but loosen a line to get rid of the pressure. Finding a not sunny spot to drop an attachment can be tricky. I would always try to find a shady spot to drop my 4n1 bucket off the skid steer, finding that spot would always save time when hooking it back up.
I hadn't thought of that, sunlight effects. Local hydraulics shop said the same thing- just crack a line.
A tee and bleed valve installed next to the couplings will make life easier.
anybody tried these? They are apparently temporary. I kind of like the idea of an installed inline bleed valve personally
update: I bought one off amazon but it was not compatible with the flat face couplers on my skid steer. not sure there is one made for skid steers. going to try a tee with bleeder valve setup next
here's what I did to solve this particular issue, a local hydraulic supply shop sold me a pressure relief valve we teed into the line for about $100.
I have a quick attach hoe and it is problem. There isn't much room to add a bleed valve. If the hoe hyd's. creep it drops too far to hook the hoses back up. I extend the boom all the way and curl the bucket up all the way up so they can't creep. I used to block up the hoe at the attachment point but have since welded hooks on the stabilizers so I can chain them together so they can't creep. I haven't taken the hoe off to try the chain yet though. I would if I had a lot of just loading. It's a track loader and a bit of a pain taking the hoe on and off.
These backhoes are squirrely as hell. There's so much fluid running around in there and so many ways for them to get out of whack. My hoe has a boom lock which keeps that up, and I also put some hooks and chains on the outriggers to get them to stay up. Problem is, it only takes a few pounds of pressure at the coupler faces to make them basically unusable and you have to relieve that pressure somehow. Seems odd the manufacturers do not provide some way to do this from the factory. As shown above, you can add a valve though.