Can anyone give me the difference between a single flange and double flange roller, what are the pro's and cons of each, on every undercarriage I've done in the past, we put on the same as we took off, on my small dozer it only has singles on it, should I put every other one a double on, or just go back to all singles again. In the past I was told it was personal preference was about the only difference, anyone have some advice or opinions to share on the subject?
All single flange was/is typically known as a "mining configuration" - no idea why. For general purpose a mix of single and double flange is usually recommended. What model machine do you have and how many rollers does it use..?
This dozer is just a small case 850 that needs a new bottom and there are only 10 total not a big deal, should a person go with all doubles then or are there drawbacks to doing that?
With 5 rollers the arrangement that I would go for in order front to rear would be S, D, S, D, S.
You need usually at least 2 double flange rollers per track frame. The double flange rollers provide positive guidance to the track rail and help the rail stay "under" the machine. Double flange are typically more money. I agree with Nige on configuration. It would work well and keep cost to a minimum.
Agree as Nige suggested. Every other roller double flange with front & rear single.On some dozers a double wont work at the rear position as the sprocket will hit the inner flange on the rear roller.If it came from the factory with singles you should be fine putting them back on. I put all singles on the 16B and they work fine. HeavyEquipmentForums
Yair . . . As above . . . although if not running rock guards I reckon single front and rear and rest doubles can help to keep things in line. Cheers.
Thanks guys, I just might go all doubles with a single in front and back, all the rest of my machines run the single double alternating method, this is the only one that had just singles on it.
I am in the process of putting new undercarriage in my d7h my parts man recommended single front and back and all others doubles, price difference on jobber was only about $15 more for the double, so that's how I am going
Anymore i use singles on the front and rear,with all double between.Get longer wear out of the rollers and can switch the singles around as they wear along with the doubles.When you have the machine on the lowboy it is a good time to check your wear pattern on the rollers.Lot easier to see,especially if it is not a detachable ,since machine is higher to veiw things. Front rollers usualy are the first to show wear because of the weight of the dozer out front.If you look at the singles they always start to wear on the single flange and cup on the outersurface to the inside where there is not any flange to keep it lined up.Also it will over time start chipping out the outer edges,or roll the inside edge.Where the doubles don't have this issue,because of the double flange keeping everything in line and the wear is more even between the flanges and don't have the chipping and cupping issues as bad thus longer life. On a diff steer machine on the front single rollers you will see a lot of wear on the flanges,because of the ability to be able to turn with a loaded dozer more.
Good point scrub. I'm so used to rock guards being fitted I tend to assume every machine has them. Always bad to assume ....................
This little dozer doesn't have rock guards on it, we use it as winch anchor for tiling and also back filling, we have enough trouble getting the caked in mud out the way it is, in the spring and fall frozen up rollers are a major problem on this machine, as they say its used abused and put away wet, literally, there's no way around it for the conditions it runs in daily, I'm not sure I'm even going to put anything but dry rails on it, not sure its worth it for being frozen solid many days a year and end up running in the snow late in the season. Its the dozer we all use the most, are in and out of the cab more than any machine I own next to the trencher, but gets the least number of hours on each year, just the way its used. I don't know if doubles would create more problems or less for frozen caked in mud, any thoughts on that?
They wouldn't IMHO. I'd think dry rails would be more susceptible to freezing than lubricated. Not sure what others think.
We just put a new undercarriage on our jd 650g. Had a single in the rear to alllow clearance on the sprocket and doubles on the rest.
Just bought 6 new rollers for my D6C. The dozer has 12 total, and I'm replacing all the ones on the left. A couple of them are totally shot. The guy I bought the rollers from said to put 1 double in front, 1 double in back, and the rest singles. I'm reading here that y'all recommend the opposite. Should I try and get more doubles and do every other one? Sounds like I need 4 doubles and 2 singles, the opposite of what I have.
From the sprocket to the front S D S D S D. Bob
Here is Cat's recommendation...
Great! Thanks for posting that chart. Very helpful.
Should I use never seize on the 5/8" bolts that hold the rollers on?
If you want to get them out next time - YES ....... However don't go wild with the torque you use to tighten them. The use of anti-seize reduces friction and can easily result in the bolts being over-tightened.
Ok cool. Dealing with a couple broken ones right now. I plan to use a torque wrench. Got a friend who will lend me one. Manual says 200 + 20 lb. ft
If you're going to use copper anti-seize drop the torque from 200 to something about 170ft.lb. That should be more than enough. It's always a good idea to run a tap through the holes first to make sure there's no crap in them that could cause bolts to go tight and give a false torque reading.
Okay that's good to know about the torque. I ran a tap through all the holes with that very thought in mind. Didn't want get hung up on rust and such.
I think some of them old cat dozers had 2 settings on the front idlers you could turn the blocks. I think it was for if you pulled towed scrapers or other setting if on blade
Yes you are correct, one position is for blade work, the other for drawbar work.