I've had a rash of 30/30 failures here, and it's getting aggravating. Sockets aren't deep enough to cage them, can't get an impact on the top stud nut, can rotates on bench while caging them, torch blows out cutting the springs, guessing at pushrod length when maxi spring is broken, etc... Anybody have any suggestions on tools to make it less aggravating?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-lis...+impact+socket&qid=1590116842&sr=8-8&dchild=1 Works great
never tried it, but looks handy https://www.kienedieseltools.com/product/26201/kiene-spring-brake-3rd-hand-tool
Unfortunately, here in rust belt, the service can (stud side) is always rotted, not to mention clevis pins seized and the clevis is almost always galled to the pushrod.
Well, I'm a southerner, but... a southern fertilizer hauler, that's why I've never tried it. I do love my Sunex extra deep socket though, fits over the whole caging tool
u can make you`re own 3/4 deep well with 2 cheap hf sockets welded together and center bored out of the first one
you can diy this thing for les than 20 bucks
start with a hot wrench` if you have to replace the whole thing except the slack adjuster
Yeah, but I almost never need one, corrosion gets 'em first. Most of those Kiene tools are easily copyable, but he does have some good ideas. I talked to the couple that runs the place when they were first starting out, he was a truck mechanic that started a company to build his ideas.
I just thought the price was silly . that clamp is on the shelf at home depot for about 9 bucks` with just a little modification you have a 3rd hand
What part is failing? I only cage them if the park side diaphragm is failed. I think marathon has a chart for figuring your pushrod length no need to guess i have used it a couple times and found it to be real close. Not much you can do on that one nut always trapped and have to wrench off other then tell people to quit over tightening them i use a wrench by hand on them that is it . Caging on bench i have a pipe threaded Schrader valve i stole out of an old junk L9000 , put it in emergency port , put 100 psi on it and put caging bolt in by hand . And as mentioned that deep socket is real handy but i dont use it unless i have too.
I just typed out how to change out a air can but because people don't follow instructions I erased it. I change out a minim of three a week and it takes about 12 minutes per can to install a piggy back, but because of liability reasons {NO Way Jose}. But you can put a air fitting in the new air can and air it up to install the cage bolt on the bench, that's the only tip I will give.
Unless it's a side of the road fix, i'm wondering why anyone would screw around with trying to repair them at around only $60 to replace? I tried caging one on my trailer awhile back, waste of time so rusty.
Duh I have pipe threaded Schrader valves on the truck. Thanks for that.
I just use a quick connect to cage them on the bench, plug the hose on, put in bolt, unplug hose, air comes out. I use my extra-deep socket caging them on the truck, mostly
Back the slack adjuster/shoes all the way off till slack wants to stop-then keep backing til slack has pivoted over center and traveled another 2 1/2". Once that's done the emergency side of the can has nothing to push on because you have pulled the service side stem back in the can. This is done with brakes released.
These look handy, I dont personally own a set, thought about buying a set a few times, we are heavy into the rust belt and have snow Nov 1 to April 1. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5054-Air-Brake-Service/dp/B000RT90UU/ref=psdc_15707261_t1_B0184DIQWI Because of rust I always change the whole can, this is a choice the owner of the trucks and I made for single axle oil delivery trucks that are always in the salt. However If we have to change a can on the road I will change the back can to get home. I also use the 90 degree method which a cheat sheet is provided by Haldex at an airbrake certification class, if you do not have the certification your supplier of brake cans probably holds a class in your area on a regular basis or when needed.
I always take a piece of mechanics wire and feed it into the can next to the rod down to the plate that the rod attaches to. Then I fold the end over and pull out the wire. Now you have the correct length to cut the rod. Secondly i always never seize the mounting nuts and Clovis pin. You never know if you’ll be the next guy to change that can.
Services on our trailers the slack adjuster pins get sprayed with a penetrating oil called Pipe Brake. In winter the de-icing fluids used on the roads will seize up the pins which in turn can cause the slack to ratchet up on adjustment. If you keep them sprayed-less problems all the way around and the pins come out when you need to remove them. While your greasing the S-cams and checking wheel seals/brakes spray the slacks. Pretty easy.
Google can't find "pipe brake". Spelling? Wrong name?
https://www.pipebreakusa.com/
I usually put a vice grip on the rod with the brakes set to keep the rod pushed out of the way if I am just taking the piggy back off, then cage the spring. Or do it after backing the slack off a ways and push it in by hand and then put the vice grip on.
We leave the brakes released/air to can, back the brake off over center and use welding vise grips with the tongs to squeeze the air hose off, remove the hoses which dumps the air off the can unbolt the piggy back clamp and remove can. It can't fly off because the slack is over center and stem is pulled back. Slam the bladder and piggy back into place/install clamp and hoses. remove vise grips ans adjust brake-----your done in fifteen minutes. I install 30-30 piggy backs because I have 630 air cans to keep an eye on and that's just the trailers. 105 three axle trailers.
I dont understand why truck manufacturers put the swivel fitting at the relay valve instead of at the brake chamber.
Because there is idiots in the design department and on the manufacturing line. Don't make waves just install as documented on the line sheet, and go home and play with your meat.
Is here: https://www.amazon.com/Pipe-Break-Penetrating-Attached-Penetrant/dp/B071H983M4 Search term is: pipe brake spray
I already posted a link above-but I will post it again- https://www.pipebreakusa.com/
Another company that makes real good penetrating oils called {Free and Bolt Off} we use a bunch of it with very good success. And the price isn't to bad. https://northamerica.certifiedlabs.com/products-aerosol-specialty-lubes-6.html
Do not miss launching Maxis into a loader bucket, ugly days
Knew a guy who lived in Vantage, Wa. He rebuilt his park brake cans, had his kid push the foot valve down to give it a test. He woke a week later with a plate installed in his forehead.
Sad but at least survived. Know of two myself that died both in attempt to cage the old Aluminum MGM series and the case broke around the head rim, age corrosion and stress. At least the newer ones are steel but I still do not trust them.
DM, Glad You posted this now and not a year ago. Replaced MGM cans on my little dump with steel 30/30 last summer. Thankfully, went without a hitch... Agree, regular deep socket not enough to cage completely. Cans still good so able to charge so not fighting spring. Deep socket as far as I could then box wrench to finish.
Stood the hair on back of your neck up didn't it!! I was on Vol FD duty and got the honored call to collect one friend with the ambulance district. Same happened as a close customer tried to sneak by on the cheap servicing his own dump truck, raised the bed and was lubing, caught the hoist over ride cable and was crushed, failed to block the bed up or to just work under with it down. Happened to be on call that night and ended up inspecting first then running his truck to get the bed off him. Have some very vivid inside my head pictures hard to keep buried.
One main issue especially with dump trucks is running over or backing into objects and the cans getting hit. That was a real problem with the MGM's. The best thing to do is cut the spring through the touch holes with a torch to be safe.
40 yrs in FD- some things hard to forget. I’m thankful none had been people I knew- tragic enough what happens but can get so personal so quickly. Had to be 30 years ago, neighboring agency had heavy truck with bad brakes take out a passenger vehicle. Car on fire. Chief officer arrives only to find it’s his family in the car- can’t even begin to imagine...
Our issues with the MGMs was aggregate erosion on rear facing or would fill up with sand at the river supply stops or deliveries when caps disappeared. Those were not fun either
If we are talking about 30/30 cans we have to talk about what to do with the old rusted can once removed from the truck. How do people dispose of old cans?
Either leave the T-bolt in to keep the can caged or use a torch and heat/ cut the spring in the park brake side through the touch holes on side of can.
At one time had a fixture to set them in a low pressure press(Bottle Jack Type) the release the jack when uncaged. Damn spring is as large as some Strut Springs. I agree gas axe thru the holes is a option.
One shop I knew of years back threw them in a pond out back. Once in a while the water would move and a mass of bubbles rise to the surface. Considering the mass of these that gets changed out in high volume cookie cutter shops I wonder how many get thrown in the scrap metal stream alive and dangerous still.
Guessing A Lot
You can always put them by the shop and let the local crackheads handle them
The late cans are crimp seal clamped, I doubt the cans are much of a threat. Just leave the T-bolt inplace. If your really worried practice your welding fab skills and weld a cage around each one. I have a scrap bin with about 40 of them in it right now, come on over a practice your welding skills.