Another annoying problem on my 580D is if the machine sits for more than a day or two the left brake locks up and sometimes I can't even get the machine moving. I'll have to use the stabilizers to jack up the machine, engage the diff lock, and shift back and forth from neutral to Fwd or Reverse to pop it free. I don't use the parking brake at all, and once it's free it seems fine. I don't use the brakes to stop it before I shut it down but that doesn't seem to matter. Whazzup?
Any Case backhoe from the D on back are notorious for leaking oil out on to the brake lining. Not sure about the newer units. I believe they get real grabby with just a little oil or don't work at all when they get soaked. If it's the left brake then it's a little easier to check by removing the 4 bolts on the cover. Sometimes you can see the gear oil leaking right out of the drain hole in the bottom of the cover. Removing the floor of the D makes it real easy or you can jack it up a little and crawl underneath. The brake fluid line can be left attached I believe, just swing the cover aside and wire up to inspect.If you have to replace the seal you will need an O-ring too, less than $30 for both. You will need to drain most of the diff oil (if removing the inner cover) and will need a sleeve made from a plastic water bottle to get the new seal over a lip in the shaft. If your lining is oily at all, you will need new lining. Aftermarket lining kits or complete drum,disc, band assemblies are available. Sometimes if brake adjustment is too tight or too loose, brakes will lock up. Springs might be broke inside, causing problems. Loose lining.. not sure if that would do it. I don't have a lot of experience on brakes. I have seen covers/ brake assemblies removed and inner plates rebolted with spacers to allow use of the machine. Remember the drum assembly only goes on one way. When installing a seal on one side, the diff shaft will drop a little. You will have to lift it up a little to slide the inner cover back in. This may cause the seal on the other side to start leaking because you have disturbed it. Make sure the shims are clean when you put them back. Hope this helps a little. Phil If the
Thanks, that helps a lot. Better than me poking around and taking things apart with no clue :duh
To keep the differential shaft on center while working on the opposite side I tighten the adjustment on the opposite side so the brake not worked on is applied , this centers the brake in the housing holding the shaft up in position. Also electrical tape wrapped on the splines and wrapping a few extra turns next to the area where the seal must expand works as well as anything, better in my opinion than the factory supplied sleeves. Been working on Case since 1962 full time so i've seen a few things.
Thanks for the tips :drinkup I was hoping to work on it this weekend but it's supposed to be in the teens.
Melben, sounds like a great trick, thanks :usa
these are some great ideas i have a 580d with the same problems i will be tryin g these
Looks like I may have the same problem. If I apply the brakes the left rear will lock up. Then if I change direction the brake will usually free up until the next time I apply the brake. Can the brakes be worked on by the average mechanically inclined person, or are there special skills and tools involved? Hope this is not thought of as hijacking someone elses thread. Is this the right thing to do or should I have started my own thread? Thanks, Rod
Just wanted to thank "melben' for the idea of using the electrical tape, on the brake shaft. It works great..!! :notworthy After messing with the first side yesterday for over an hour, using thin gasket material for shim stock, and miraculously not damaging the seal..., let alone thinking the evening before what to use..., I thought..., there has to be a better way..!! Last night, I Googled " Case tractor brake shaft seal tool", and ran across this site, and thread... When I read melben's reply.., I could have kicked myself, for not thinking of something like that... I belong to a Case tractor forum, and there were many suggestions, but not this one. So simple, and so economical... That bearing retainer plate went on today, like it had eyes..!! I lubed it with some 90 wt. and slid right on... Almost too easy..!! LOL... I'm a firm believer of giving credit, where credit is due... So melben, I hope you don't mind me copying and pasting your suggestion on that site. That little bit of info will save guys hundereds, if not thousands of dollars in the future, of not ruining seals... I learned a lot of tricks over the years from the guys with experience.. I used to belong to an antique tractor club, and the wealth of information these guys passed on would fill volumes... Wish I could remember just half of what was told me... Just goes to show, you can learn something new everyday... Thanks again..!! DJ
seal installer DJ, thanks for the kind words, glad that your experience is the same as mine in that regard. There is a wealth of information shared here on a daily basis. They say that necessity is the mother of invention, one thing, electrical tape fits all size shafts (the universal seal protector). Good luck in all your future projects. Mel (melben)
Little tricks of the trade like that sure make tackling something like that so much easier.... As I've told a buddy of mine numerous times... Sometimes we overlook the obvious...