Anyone here built their own hydraulic oil filter cart? What did you use for the pump?
I have done if for diesel I bought a transfer pump from Northern Tool and a water / dirt seperator (Racor) the thing is about 2 feet tall and i cycle all my tanks for about 30 mins. ever once and I while. You schould see what it pull out. the filter has a clear bowl on the bottom. You could also but a larger pump from Norther tool or Grainger and get your self a Parker filter housing and build your cart. I will take pics of mine and post.
The big problems is pushing the oil through a 2 micron filter. I bought one foe hydraulic oil from Norman and, made one for filtering waste vegetable oil. Buy the time you get a good pump hot oil pump for $700.00 from Granger or a bio-diesel supply like murphy's machines or harbor freight you will have a ready made half paid for. I paid $1400.00 for the complete unit 10 micron water and 2 meg final filter from Norman 5 years ago. I will post some pictures of a home made unit we made for vegetable oil filter 20 and 5 micron. Pictures 1. & 2. homemade. 3. & 4. Norman Filter. Good luck
Whatever happened to this thread? Is there anybody else out there that has made their own filter cart. It's something i'm interested in, but not seeing anything on the web about it.
Use a good quality gear pump and you should be fine
Very interesting thread indeed, the question I have is, what about water, I've never known a filter cart to take water out of the oil, or is this false, some will remove moisture? Other question is whats a normal cart and who sells them? And what about cross contamination of oil, not all oils to be filtered are compatible, how do you clean the cart, just dump all the old oil out of the filters and start over again, how do you purge the hoses and get all of that out?
I've looked at these carts at the hydraulic shop. I think it would be very useful but have thought about moisture and cross contamination as well. Any comments from folks that have one would be helpful.
3 micron filter 1 I have a 10 micron filter and then a second filter 3 micron. If you have a water problem then you need to burn off the water and stop it from getting in. A typical system filter on your machine is 10 micron. My cart will filter a running 40 gallon hydraulic system 3 times in 1 hour. The only time you change out the oil is when you think the additives are gone or you don't like the color. I did change the last time because I did not like the color but I was not worried that it was bad I just didn't like the tint
The water problems we have been having are from condensation over time, some machines are just more prone to this than others and I have as of yet to figure out how to avoid or stop this problem. I base most hydraulic oil changes from oil sampling, every engine oil change we pull hydraulic oil samples as well and go from those recommendations as to the hour interval for changing hydraulic oils, unless we are having some sort of system failure, its almost always water contamination that is the reason for an early hydraulic oil change. How do you burn off the water in hydraulic oil? Most hydraulic oils in my climate won't run hot enough most of the year to ever burn off water, those machines I have with water traps on them and run oils that repell water can be drained off to a certain extent, but it never gets it all, not even with oil changes can all of it be gotten out, some water will go into suspension and stay in the machines oil at all times.
I like this solution: www.simplecentrifuge.com . No filters to buy or change, it removes water and contaminates. I was going to build one to clean up oil to use as an off road fuel source, but these days they're even testing off road fuel.
Sorry to let you know but centrifuge is not the answer for water. I remember reading that on bio-diesel. Centrifuge will clean dirt not water. The easy way is to burn it off or let it evaporate. A tip is take the cap off at the end of shift or start, and look at it is it moisture then wipe it off. You will be removing water. Why not try and change the Hydraulic oil cooler to get the oil hotter you need heat. Unless you are working in the rain or under water the only place moisture will come in is the breather at night. I burn water out of bio-diesel after I wash it, it takes several hours and heat is 100 to 135 in a circulating tank with the lid off the moisture goes off the top. Another method is to allow the water to fall out of the oil to the bottom and then drain off but over night will get some long time is needed.
It 2 micron filter not 3 micron filter
Best pump to use is a small air-powered trash pump. Aro used to make them, but I believe Ingersol-Rand took them over. Grainger has them. Trouble with any other pump is that trash in dirty oil ruins them quickly. I made the mistake of using a gear pump years ago when I made a hydraulic filter cart using the hydraulic reservoir off a burned Hough 400 loader. Worked really well, but had to change pumps about once a month. Good Luck!
In my 21 years in the US Navy we used centrifuges for engine oil hyd. and Diesel fuel to remove water. They were Sharples and Delaval, on ships with very large fuel demand and aircraft fuel (JP5) we used a filter that captured the water and drained it off I can't think of the name of the filter now but you may see the filters at any airport, they large tanks painted purple. 2 to 3 feet in diameter.
The name of water removable system for fuel is called a coaleser