Figured I might get some input from members on this. We needed to build a driveway and millings came in at the best price in my area. I know the general concept is to first apply a base with coarse gravel, compact, and build up from there, but costs were getting out of sight. We dropped 200T of asphalt to spread at several inches thick and I am getting ready to spread and work the product. The ground is ag ground but this area has not been worked in 2yrs. When we brought the end dumps in on dry ground, they were weighing in about 88K# and did not even think about rutting the ground. I know all things change with moisture but trying to explain the site. My ideal method would have been to at least sheepsfoot the ground before the asphalt but we had to move. The millings vary from powder to 4-5" clumps. When I drag a tractor over it, it will smooth up nice but I have concerns of getting a real base from this. Because of the material, I considered using just the skidsteer to level this rather than something heavier since it seems to more it gets packed, the harder it will be to work. I was going to level with the skidsteer, then use a plate tamp to work it down best I can and let lighter traffic start working it in. I have intention to retop this later either with more asphalt or crushed stone, so I realize this probably won't be the end product. On similar ground, I have done nothing more than spread a nice layer of 3/4" crushed stone on sandy loam soils which tend to rut pretty easy. Over time, the site has firmed to the point I can drive a 15K forklift on it without a problem. I also demonstrated that area to non-believers with a 12K load on the 15K fork and we figured about 30+K to the ground at the front pneumatic dual axle on the fork. Not a problem. Would I be able to get this asphalt to similar performance through compaction and time? My reasoning is the material's own weight seems to have some ability to compact the ground and lock together. I am not sure if asphalt will be able to do this?
Away to resurface it after it compacts You know the compaction from driving over it will not leave a smooth surface. What I would do after it compacts is spread a layer of crusher run on top of the millings deep enough to fill the imperfections and about 1/2" over the surface of the millings. Even if you can't wet it down it will pack tight and leave you a surface that is smooth and will stay in place even with heavy traffic (something larger more expensive gravel won't do). If someone tells you it will wash away in the rain, that's bull if it won't wash a way on a driveway that slopes 40 degrees, and we get a lot of rain in Va. I use a York rake for the final grading on crusher run. Best wishes, john dragon
I don't know if this is always true but where I have seen, it seems that millings eventually pack and fuse together into something like a HMA mat. Having that as your base laid right on the dirt makes me kind of wonder if it is a good idea? I would hazard that rock, then millings, then HMA after each layer has had a chance to stabilize might be the ticket.
Grade, compact, wait a year or 2, grade, spray with some diesel, and compact again. almost as good as asphalt, with a good base. I'd put it down at least 6" deep, first layer, then you can always add more, if you want...
Well, I got to thinking a bit more on this product and I think the only smart choice here is to compact the hell out of it! It wants to bind together. We know that to get soil to support load, we need to spread the weight over a larger area so getting this to function as a slab will be important. As well, I figured that if I could get it packed up enough, it would shed water better, keeping the soil under it dry, which will lead to better load capacity. So.... I am working on getting a vibratory smooth roller out there rather than a gay plate tamp. Guess if I play this right, I might have something that actually looks nice. Just don't want to see it get all trashed with the first truck on it but I guess I have to remember "this is only the first layer".
I've seen it done several places where they spread it out and graded with water, and it was loose rocks and chunks from pebble to 3" all over the place and looked horrible. After a few months the wheel rut areas are pretty much blacktop and after a year or so the whole thing looks like a rough pave job. Good enough for medium speed traffic actually. The key seems to be spreading it thick, not just an inch or you will have the same kind of road as if you used an inch of hot mix.
I got enough material to do about a 5" lift uncompacted. I know it will need more later but this is a construction site so after all the big trucks hammer it, I will have to patch it up a bit,. the biggest issue right now is our county has an "approved fire road" policy now because people were building their houses with a 6ft wide sand road for their Honda Civic. Fire trucks no worky with that.....let it burn..... They have their specs at 4" thick of whatever that hold their truck. However, im willing to bet if it holds their truck and the surface is too hard to dig into, they will have to fly it.... IDK what their trucks weigh but it can't be more than 80K around here. I was thinking 60K.