Sorry if this is the wrong spot for this question but I figured this was a close as there is. I just bought a set of stair moulds (they are equipment.......technically) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290317241114&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:AU:1123 and I have never used anything along those lines. Obviously it is pretty straight forward how they are supposed to be used but I am wondering if anyone has any hands on experience with them. I am also planning on incorporating hand rails into the actual stairs, would I be best off with stainless (???+) or use ordinary pipe that is sealed at the bottom and painted with rust proof paint (??-) My plan at this stage is to set the 10 moulds into position to make sure they geometry is right and then remove all but the first and use my motorized wheel barrow to tip concrete into the first one and then put the second one in place and so on. Problem being where the stairs are supposed to go I have limited access from the sides. So I have to bring the concrete in from the top. Although I will have to modify the motor wheel barrow to stop it from tipping forwards. Here is a picture of the type of wheel barrow I have, it does not really show it but the 'bin' is set forward over the front axle a bit to enable it to be tipped by hand but this has the drawback of putting it's center of gravity forward enough for it to tip forwards if going down a hill with a load and then trying to stop (how do I know this?)
I would use stainless or aluminum railing, if you can afford it. The mild steel will almost always rust where the moisture enters the foundation for the post - then the water will perpetually carry a bright red rust STAIN on your concrete forever. Why would not use the bucket on that mini to load the higher steps? Is it short at the top 2-3? Get some form release for those forms too. - or you will be prying them off with a pry bar, and wrecking your pretty new corners.
Thanks for your reply. The problem with stainless or aluminum is welding the stuff, anyway I'll have to have a bit more of a think about it. I have thought about using the ex to shovel the concrete, guess I'll have to get it set up and see where I am at. What do you mean by form release? Is that some sort of spray or plastic sheeting product?
Form oil (diesel fuel/motor oil will work in a pinch)
This is one product - http://www.wrmeadows.com/wrm0197.html The form release "agents" are in liquid form and there are alot of options. Like Special Tool said, it will make your pour and your life easier. In the past we just used diesel fuel......
use the proper release agent as motor oils will stain the concrete ,I would recommend a biodegradable one as spills don't become an issue .Are you mixing the concrete your self ? if so who is responsible for the mix design or the cube/cylinder tests , as to ascertain the concrete strength,prior to sale or installation .have you got the rebar specs and lifting eyes sorted?? Do you have any pictures of the moulds ,when I use the link nothing shows up
Stainless can be welded with stick- no special equipment required - tig gives a neater appearance and is much easier on thin metal
I suspect price will decide for you
Pardon the threadjack but we whipped up some stairs when I built my new warehouse a couple years ago and they came out really nice. We framed them up with some extra wood we had laying around. Once the concrete semi-setup, we just pulled the boards off and presto. I couldn't find after pics, but here's some pics of the crude framing. I can snap some finished pics if you would like to see some. I would just take me a day or so to get out there. The only release agent we used was a small sledge and a couple strong mexican guys, lol.
Ha Ha at first I thought you're taking the mickey but then I figured you are talking about pre-cast concrete stairs, no these are your common garden variety ones. Here are a couple of pics of the moulds
I guess in that situation you would have to use custom moulding, as you are up against a wall.
Again I have seen some thing new on the HEF most contractors here would run up one-off for each job instead of trying to adapt preformed ones and yes I was referring to precast stairs previously as I was unable to see the forms in the link provided . While some of you don't seem to care for the use of form oil I could not recommend it strong enough for your type of work where finish is of very high importance ,it saves hours in cleaning and ensures the molds remain in good condition "A good mold gives a good finish" .All it will take on those is wipe of an oily rag (form oil)where the concrete meets the steel and if properly oiled it helps reduce chipping on the corners and rusting on the forms when not in use. Stock
This is an industry standard. All proffesional concrete workers use form oil. You can get away without it on wood throwaway forms where you can seperate the corners away from the concrete, but with real forms, or steel, you don't pour without it.
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As for your handrail dilemma i would recommend galvanized hand rail. I never recommend bare steel for a direct pour into concrete for the reasons mentioned above. IF your going that route you would be better to leave cores into your pour and then go back with non shrink grout for the final install. Around here theres guys making decent handrail for way cheaper than i can. And im in the welding and fabrication business and have a pipe bender. you can convert almost any Steel welding process over to stainless welding fairly easily. weather your welding with stick or MIG.
Hendrik, we use the mini and bucket on backwards lots, it works well on difficult sites. Sometimes we sling the barra and lift it with the mini. I use Lanolin as a release agent but its banned for the tilt panel guys as the paint wont stick well after you use lanolin. Crap photo cause the buckets in the shade.
Built my first set of steps a few weeks ago, worked pretty well, couldn't find any form release oil but the molds came off easy enough. Used the homemade concrete mixer on the end of the Kubota ex but because of the difficult access (could only access from the top) I had to swing it out over the side and could only fill the bowl to 60-70% capacity. HeavyEquipmentForums The beauty of these molds is that I can build a curving set of steps. The stairs are deliberately done rough to give that rustic look, so as to make them look old and have had colouring added.
I like the crooked steps, gives it character
That was the point, as well as being functional they are also supposed to blend in. I am going to finish them off with a small stone wall on the right side to match up with the soil, I had to excavate a bit to get the desired slope.
Well having used them in anger now, I can say that they work pretty well and relatively quick to set up. From memory they cost me 10 or 15 bucks each and I figure the time saved to make custom moulds has just about paid for them in that one job. Sure they have their limitations in what you can do with them but for what I want to do with them they are perfect.