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Busted rod end repair options Case 850k tilt cylinder

psychicrhino ยท 2014-02-26 17:14

I have a 2007 Case 850k dozer that I was digging stumps with today. I heard a big pop and got down to see the rod end on the left tilt cylinder had split. The dozer has about 2000 hrs and rod and seals are good. Looking for input on replacing the rod end. Can I cut off the rod end weld on a new end? If so, can I buy a replacement rod end or do I need to get one machined?. I am not having any luck in finding replacement ends online. Any advice is appreciated.

Replies17
  1. #1psychicrhino2014-02-26 17:34

    http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p721/psychicrhino/Mobile Uploads/20140226_144341_zpsbab6dfba.jpg Pic of the part

  2. #2kshansen2014-02-26 18:30

    Seems like a used part may be available. Have you tried doing a Google search on used Case 850K parts? Any good used part dealer should be able to tell what other machines would use the same rod. It's is not impossible to have a new end made and welded on but need to have some body who knows what they are doing. I'd also suggest using a bit of grease on those pins, looks awful dry and the paint is not worn off the grease nipple.

  3. #3psychicrhino2014-02-26 20:05

    Hey thanks. The machine was just serviced and painted. Yes I did google for new and used parts. Found a source for the bushing and snap rings. Would prefer to just replace the rod end if possible as a new cylinder is about a grand.

  4. #4Delmer2014-02-26 20:23

    Is there any way that the rod end got bent? I'd be double checking everything to make sure there wasn't twisting force on that eye that caused it to break. Sorry, I can't help with the rod end, but I'd bet a hydraulic shop could find one in a minute (a standard end, not from Case). I'd bet they cut off and put the old eye on a new rod 1,000 times for every broken end, that just doesn't look right to me.

  5. #5Dickjr.2014-02-26 20:30

    Looks like the bearing is cracked , I wonder if the bearing cracked and wedged someway to cause this failure. And no offense , It appears the machine has never had grease there. First thing before the keys turns , 4 shots a day or every fueling period , keeps the repair man away.

  6. #6Dickjr.2014-02-26 20:36

    Possibly to find a used on look at www.findtractorparts.com , www.chartrandequip.com , Drews Parts call 888-823-1841. Crawler parts LLC 317-774-5445. Might find a used one , I think it would be better than a repair.

  7. #7RayF2014-02-27 03:08

    That bearing has been has been loose in the bore. Only takes a few thou with that type of bearing. Its a easy repair assuming the rod is still straight. Cut off the boss,machine another one undersize. Weld it on and then final machine. It has a circlip groove either side of the bearing and the bore size is 2 to 3 thou smaller than the new bearing.

  8. #8kshansen2014-02-27 09:04

    In a perfect world I would disagree with the "First thing before the key turns". I much prefer to see the greasing be done at the end of shift not start of shift. End of day flushes out the dirt before it has a chance to harden over night. Just wish I could convince those where I work that a few tubes of grease and a few minutes pumping it was cheaper than pins, bushings and line boring. Not that I have anything against you line bore people, you are artists to me! :notworthy I just don't get the people who go by the idea of "The squeaky wheel gets the grease" maintenance theory:Banghead

  9. #9psychicrhino2014-02-27 15:15

    Thanks guys for all of the input and advice. I had a welder friend look at it and he said he could make a new eye and weld it on but it would not be as hard as the original and probably not hold up as well over time. His advice was to find a scrap one if possible and cut the eye off and weld it on or just replace the rod/eye. I also went to a hydraulic shop this morning and they said they could make me a new eye/rod. Told them what I had costed for an aftermarket rod and he said the cost for him to make it(materials+labor) would be about the same if not a bit more. He also said he would probably not get the tolerance as close for the bushing as the factory eye would - which was decent enough of him to tell me I guess. He said he recommended I put new seals in it while I had it apart. Said he could put the new rod and seals in for about $100 labor. But recommended I just get a 10'cheater pipe on the rod bolt and break it down myself which is what i plan to do. Just waiting on a shipping / order quote from an outfit on the new rod/bushing/snapring/seals ( appx $350 +shipping). Watched a couple of youtube videos and I will let you know how it comes out. Going to crawl the dozer back to the house and give it a good power spray down in prep (been building a pond on the back side of the place). Thanks again.

  10. #10Dickjr.2014-02-27 15:44

    If you have any luck finding a used let me know. There are a few K models out there being dismantled ( sounds better than saying junked ). Aside of it being dry you never know what could have happened during the manufacturing process. Possible impurities in the cast who knows. I know where there is one setting I could get for you ( under cover of dark ) . Not really. My tractor is similar in size , those little boogers take a pretty good beating.

  11. #11Dickjr.2014-02-27 15:49

    Oh there are times my machines get skipped over , but generally while fueling , I try to grease . My guys won't touch a grease gun , I even have one of those nice Lincoln power lubers. Come to think of it my guys won't check nothing.

  12. #12psychicrhino2014-02-27 16:51

    Haha, yeah - I will probably just buy new this time and keep my eyes out for a used source for next time. Always, a next time. BTW if you could just send me the coordinates of your crawler I just might be able to find some parts...hmmmmm

  13. #13Dickjr.2014-02-27 16:56

    That other case 850K is not mine , I have a Komatsu , so as far as I'm concerned help your self.

  14. #14kshansen2014-02-27 21:03

    Well I hate greasing myself, but hate pulling bushings and replacing pins much worse and as much as I love to see a good linebore job done I try my best to put those guys out of business Then again enough lousy maintenance being done to keep them busy

  15. #15RayF2014-02-27 22:13

    Go your hardest and grease and try to put us out of business. We have enough to do without welding hole and machining them that would have been ok if someone had spent 10 seconds a day pumping in a couple of squirts of grease

  16. #16kshansen2014-02-28 10:39

    A bit of a highjack here sorry! A few years back when I had another guy working in the shop with me we had what we thought was a great system worked out. Early afternoon one of us would jump on spare haul truck and run down to the pit and send one of the trucks to the shop. Guy staying in shop would grease truck in about five minutes and send it back for the next truck. Then we would do the same with the pit loader. The we would call in the loaders for customer load out one at a time. In a little over an hour six or more machines were greased with barely a blip on production. For some unknown to us reason it was decided this took too much time. Now seem like things only get greased when operators can hear squeaking over the sound of the radio or someone drives by and tells them it needs greasing.

  17. #171466IH2014-02-28 15:16

    In my personal opinion stay away from Chartrand Equip. they are in my back yard literaly and there is a reason they dont sell equipment or parts locally. I have sever friend of mine that have told horror stories of things that they have done to finals, transmissions, and other components just a heads up. You may want to look u schaefers equipment in Wolf Lake, Ill they are a salvage yard that specializes in Case equip and i have had very good luck with them. when i get back to my desk i can get you their number if you want