My D5C spun a rod bearing and locked up the 3204 engine. I took the pan off and the number 3 rod bearing stuck. It looks like I will need to get the crank turned. Is it easier to pull the engine out with the transmission or unbolt the engine and tranny and only pull the engine ? Should I now do a total rebuild on this engine, Or get the crank turned and just replace the main and rod bearings ? Or would it be better to get a replacement engine ?
Hey there, im a field tech. down here in Ga, im in the process of an rebuild myself, ive pulled the motor out of my guys d5c, due to its been knocking for a yr now an using 2 gallons of oil daily, needless to say he ran it out or low on oil an it spun a bearing on number 3 rod, we pulled the motor out (3204) an took apart, noticed the number 3 rod was burnt black an cranks had some scratchs, then found out that our crank shaft is bent .30 ,, so needless to say at cat they want around 3000 bucks exchange for a crankshaft,, I called my guys that I deal with all the time here in south Ga. they sold me a after market crank shaft for round 1200 bucks I think, just as good as cats an will last just as long, ive built with after market parts for yrs, just as good long as took care of , an were boreing the block out too due to worn cylinders,,, plus the 3204 motors don't have liners in them so ya have to machine the block for next size piston, so we also are rebuilding the motor too, the kit cost me around 1200 bucks too, an my rod that was burnt go a new one too from them guys for round 100 bucks. should get my block a head back anyday to begin the build, if ya have the know how or a friend that can help you itll be cheaper for you to build ur motor,,, looking round ball park of 2500 to 3000 cant buy a rebuilt one for that nor a good take out. I had the cat soft ware on my laptop from were I use to work at a cat dealor for few yrs then got laid off, so now im a field tech for myself now,,, if ya wanta try an tackle this motor on ur own I can give you all the timeing an torque specs ya need for the job. plus to save alot of money I cant help you out with shareing my parts guys name an number with ya an leave cat outta the picture.
Thanks for responding Chris. When pulling this engine, the bolts connecting the engine and tranny look very hard to get to. Would it be easier to pull the engine and tranny together ?
I am currently in process of rebuilding my 3204 in my 78 model D3B. Engine is bored and sleeves press fitted back in. You can reuse the same pistons that came out, but I'm going to install 3 groove pistons instead of reusing my 2 groove ones. Mine is smaller then your and there are a few bolts on the bell housing which are difficult, but I was able to get them out. Disconnected the hydraulic pump from the engine but did not disconnect the lines, or drain tank. Pulled the engine after removing the radiator and guard. Used a chain and come-along to hold the tranny up from the roll over top. Forgot: also removed the dash panel and peddles
reply to pulling tranny with motor Id leave the trains. in there,, just get a long 3/8 drive extention an wobble sockets to get them 2 or 3 that's lil tuff to get too,, but its hole lot easyer to use the wobble sockets an extention than to worry bout unhooking ur trains. on the ground after pull them both, make sure you put a oil catch pan un bell housing when pulling motor from trainny, gonna lose bout gallon an half or two, also like the other fella said remove the hyd. pump from the left front of ur motor, leave the hyd lines hooked up an just pull it back outta the way, an remove radiator an oil cooler tho, easyer to get them stubborn bell housing bolts out after removeing belly pans an floor boards, ive never removed the dash nor foot pedals but what what evers easyer for ya. after removeing the bell housing bolts the motor will slide outta tranny, it drives on gears in fly wheel so theres no inner bolts to remove. when ya get motor apart let me know an ill give ya the guys number to help ya on parts