I want to run my dozer on WMO 20% diesel and 80% WMO. The temp. here in Iceland where I live is average summer 50 farenheit. I am told if I put a heater in the tank, heater in the hose from the tank to the motor and a heater on the filter. Then I could run the dozer on this mix. Have you done it or do you no if any one has done it ? Do you know if any one is running a dozer on a WMO mix ? The WMO would be filtered down to 1/2 micron with centrefuge to get it clean.
Thor, I am not sure how well your small engine would run on that kind of mixture. Never tried it before. In a D342 low rpm diesel (D8K,D8H) however, I have done alot of experimenting over the past few years with mixing WMO and Diesel fuel. Now I would never never never and I mean NEVER try mixing motor oil in the fuel in the winter time, as our winters get to nearly minus 45c at times. I only do it in the dead heat of summer, June, July and August, which also happen to be our busiest time so we usually end up getting rid of most of our WMO. Depending on how hot I would let the motor run the more WMO the engine would allow me to put in, before it started to impeed the preformance. A plus 35 day in july The richest I have ever run the mixture without even noticing it was 120 liters of WMO to 480 liters of diesel fuel (mixing in a 600 liter slip tank) thats with no heaters in the tank and the same type of filter system you talk of (many experiments gone bad building my filter system, lots of wasted fuel filters to say the least) now i did get cocky one morning and tried 150 liters of WMO to 450 liters of diesel. the 8 ran like a dog for about 4 hours untill I could top it off with fresh diesel and then it took off again. I don't know what the residual effect all that soot would have on the turbo ETC, we havn't had any problems yet, but I know that your fuel pump will thank you..... so will the check book on fuel savings.
Hi Catskinner, thanks for your info. 1. Do you clean your WMO (filter it or centerfuge) before blending it to the diesel ? 2. Do you start your D8 on the mix and then shut it down running the it on the mix, or do you start it with clean diesel untill the engine is hot and then turn on the fuel mixed with WMO and before shutting down run it on clean diesel ? What do you mean with that my fuel pump will thank me ? Kind Regrds Thor
Thor, I start the engine on that mix and shut it off on that mix. a 342 usually needs glow plugs to start at the best of times, so it still starts fairly decently, might cough and sputter alitte more than normal but it flattens out once the fires are burning. I built a filter system consisting of an electric powered hydralic pump that pumps the oil through a series of 3 magnetic screens and then engine oil filters. the canister style (3 sets of 2, to make 6 filters in total, off early serial number 46A D8's) so you can take them out and clean them off if you send a real dirty batch through. But usually if you send a really dirty batch through it the filter is junk and you have to change the first one in the loop because the pump will not push it through. Another thing you have to make sure of is that you don't have antifreeze or water in any of this oil you want to use. I still use a water separator just for peace of mind, but just be careful. make sure when you collect your WMO you use clean pails and try to minimalize the dirt that goes with it. This is why is never a good idea to go around the countryside collecting used oil from your friends, local farmers etc. I only burn WMO from my own equipment, because I know theres no antifreeze in it, and I do the best I can to keep it clean. Putting oil in your diesel fuel helps lubricate your fuel pump, thats what I meant by it will thank you. This new style low-sulfur diesel fuel they refine these days is very dry. Spill some on your fuel tank and it seems to dry up alot quicker than it would have 10 years ago, and I think this dry fuel is taking its toll on old-style fuel systems. So the oil definatly won't hurt them.
Is centrifuge enough I am told that the centrifuge will clean down the wmo to 1/2 micron by runing the oil at 150F four times through the centrifuge. Would I need any other process to get rid of water and antifreeze ?
I'm just curious , used engine oil filtered down to 1/2 a micron is what colour ? Is it still black ? If it is , i would still be worried about how abrasive the carbon would be on injectors and pump elements etc . Has anyone had internal wear on these components using this method ?
It´s still black when it comes out of the centrifuge. But that ´s not necessarily a bad thing. There´s energy in those carbon molecules. The question is, do they act as grinding compound or like graphite powder lubricant? Some injection systems handle it better than others. If you have to replace an IP and nozzles every year it´s still worth it on many applications. Here's a video of one centrifuge setup. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZbrUi0YxwY
What you have to remember is this oil your are putting back into your engine, came out of your engine!! it will not hurt your fuel pump whatsoever. The only thing I worry about is the turbo carboning up.
I don't quite understand this . The oil with it's elevated carbon content is now being run in a part of the injector pump that it was'nt before , in the elements etc .
Iron Horse, think about it, in it its concentrated form, it once lubricated your crankshaft, cam, rockers, liners, etc. if its so dern abrasive then why are those parts not completely worn out? Not to mention the way I run it its only 6:1 mix ratio usually. And i try to do my oil changes every 200 hours and only use conventional oil......... synthetic is snake oil in my opinion..... but thats a discussion for new thread which I shall start right now!
Most of those parts mentioned are suspended by the oil by way of oil pressure . If it wasn't for that pressure the components would touch metal to metal and fail within seconds . Bearings have a 2 thou clearance , piston skirts have 4 thou + which is larger than the Carbon molecules , but an injector pump has very little clearance and the Carbon molecules could rub on the surfaces . If it wasn't for the need to change our oil due to the Carbon content we would simply add some additives and keep on running it . The Carbon would look like gravel under an Electron microscope . I'm not trying to be argumentative , i just want someone to give an informed answer .
Well i don't have any stats on this topic, but we have done this for numerous years now and havn't had a pump failure yet. (knock on wood) I did have to replace a pump not long after we started doing this. But it was worn out beforehand. On the D8's the offset drive tang on the front of the pump wears out long before the injectors usually do. Our old D8H scraper cat has burnt well over 5000 liters of WMO with no problems yet. Another little treat I like to give them is 2-stroke engine oil. I had also heard from an old boy that used to have numerous 14A's years ago in our area. That he rigged up a water injector on a few of his cats just like the old John Deere tractors had, once they get good and hot he would slowly open the little tap and let water mist into the intake tube right after the air filter untill it started to run alittle different then back the tap off a 1/4 turn. Claimed he could get more power without burning the fuel to do it because of the density of the humidfied air.... I have never had the balls to try it, H's and (K's especially) are hard enough on heads and gaskets as it is. And Lord knows what it would do to a high RPM diesel, probably blow a piston through the hood haha
Heating up the WMO After reading on the internet and ask on numerous forums. I think I will have two tank systems. One small with diesel to heat the engine and the the other tank that has the 100% wmo (I can get coolant heater to heat the wmo tank and the inline hose as well as the filter). After the wmo is warm enough I will turn of the diesel and turn on the wmo. Before shutting down at the end of the day I will turn on the diesel tank and fill the inline and the filter with diesel. To clean the oil I will heat it up to 140 farenheit and run it through centrifuge 3 times. Should I run through magnetic after I run three times through the centrifuge ? Kind regards
What do you think about the two tank system and running it on straight warm wmo ? Thor
A magnet on the discharge from your centrifuge would eliminate one step from the cleaning process. In theory, you shouldn´t need a magnet. But it would be interesting to see what passes through the centrifuge. The two tanks system works for the grease car guys. There´s no reason it shouldn´t work with wmo. You should have easier start up on clean diesel as you describe.