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Case 1150 B dozer

Matt Meeks ยท 2014-12-20 15:03

Hi, I have a case 1150 b that is having a few problems and help needed. First of all where the hydraulic pump bolts to the torque converter housing there is a machined like non threaded weep hope I guess that is pumping fluids out of it the more rpms you give the bigger the stream of hydraulic fluids! This hole is on the torque converter housing will try an upload photos. Also when in high range the dozer will move with power an good transmission pressure but when put in low range I loose transmission pressure an power dozer will barely move. Any info or input will help?

Replies12
  1. #1Matt Meeks2014-12-20 15:08

    The pic of pArts diagram the read dot is where the hole that is pumping fluids is marked with red.

  2. #2sheepfoot2014-12-20 17:46

    In the area that you are seeing the leak, you may have a seal going out on your main hyd pump filling the drive cavity with hyd oil. I am thinking there is a drilled hole in that area with a ball bearing staked in it that it a leak were to happen to the hyd pump seal it would relieve the pressure. I would cut a long strip of cardboard and send it down there to make sure it's coming from there and not being sprayed from a hose or tube with a pin hole. Never use your hand or fingers to find a leak. The low range issue, check the linkage from the shifter to control valve spool first. The spool has to go into detent in the control valve for low just like high. The pins and clevis may be worn not letting it travel to that detent position. After that it becomes more of a challenge to find the problem, remove the rear cover if it has one still on, you will see a stub cap, center low. That is your high/low shaft, bump the cap off and you will see the pto shaft, mark your lines and remove the 3/8 bolts, using to small bars pry that housing off and inspect the seal rings and inner housing for heavy wear. You may get lucky with a set of seal rings worn out. If not you have to go back and check some pressures, check the hose for the low range for a blockage. Then it's either a control valve gasket or into the high/low range assembly. The pressure at the end cap should be around 270-320 psi. and you can dead head a gauge with the correct fitting at the hose end at that pto cap also to see if you have pressure there. I have a tester that I can hand pump back into the clutch packs and H/L range which makes it easer to check/ test out to see if they are holding pressure. First linkage then pressure test at the hose end to the low range cap, then slip that cap off and check the seal rings and bore. After that like said you have to roll your sleeves up.

  3. #3Matt Meeks2014-12-20 19:57

    I was kinda thinking the samething on the seal part sheepfoot, with the hole being on the housing where the hydraulic pump bolts to? So with the dozer moving and acting normal other then the fluid coming out where I explained you would feel confident that the torque converter is ok? And as far as the low range I will have to continue researching an getting info from you guys cause I'm new to working on a dozer mechanically inclined but new territory, thanks for your reply

  4. #4Shimmy12014-12-20 20:20

    I had an 1150C that was acting similar transmission-wise. Pulled that back cover and changed seal rings and the cover, lasted about 50 hrs then gone again. Ended up rebuilding trans because there are thrust washers? on that shaft that were gone and allowed the shaft to move and tear up the rings (and housing). I did it twice thinking that I messed something up the first time. This was about ten yrs ago and if I remember it was around $400 for the cover and seal kit.

  5. #5Matt Meeks2014-12-21 13:08

    Ok thanks for the info, gonna try an tackle the leaking on the torque converter first then address the low range issue

  6. #6Matt Meeks2014-12-21 13:10

    Thanks for the reply sheep foot gonna pull it out tomorrow I will update you with what I find on hydraulic pump seals

  7. #7sheepfoot2014-12-21 13:53

    matt, I would address the low range first, you could even just swap the hose on the H/L end cap and try it, that would make the shift to low in the high position and the low position high. If the problem moves from the low range working to the high range not working you may end up with a blown gasket in the trans control valve under the battery tray. If it does not work you know you need to pull that rear housing off and check the seals. The end play on that shaft should be .014-.020 using a indicator on the end and should be checked before removing it from the trans cover. You have to save the shim pack under it and add to or take away shims to get the clearance needed when going back together with it, I would use new copper washers on the bolts, this will save you a step rather than putting it back and rechecking and having to pull it back off to re shim. They have made some upgrades to the high/low range over the years and some parts have been deleted with new sub groups.

  8. #8sheepfoot2014-12-21 14:25

    Matt, also I should have said there is oil up behind the pump drive for lube of the gears but you should not have that kind of pressure other than what is being slung by the gears. The way you said it was working normal in the high range led me to think the converter was holding it's own. That machine has some years on it around the late 70's so with out a history it hard to tell what you have going on. The pump seal will hold oil back to the pump and after removal you will see the seal in the converter that holds lube into the converter around the pump drive coupler. Is you trans adding oil as it runs and is your hyd tank loosing fluid. Granted this is a older unit that may have other leaks that can effect this question. If you find it real wet between where the pump bolts and that coupling seal you may have found you leak issue. Their is several other areas that will cause a flood of oil in there but the hyd pump would be a pain full first check. Like posted before I would check out the H/L before the pump/converter do to being able to do some testing.

  9. #9Matt Meeks2015-01-05 09:30

    Thanks for all the info guys, sheepfoot you were right in the hydra pump it has a drilled relief hole in it an that's were the fluids were being released. Had the pump rebuilt the seals were completely gone so hope that fixed the issue. Now moving onto the the low range issue the pressure drops on my trans mission gauge an feels real week moving can move back to high range and works fine any ideas?

  10. #10Matt Meeks2015-02-07 21:58

    I was writing you back about my 1150B dozer on the low range issue trying to get some more info today I swapped the high range line to the low range and the low range line to the high range, and my results were the low line to the high clucth and would crawl in high, but the high line to low clucth would not hardly crawl in low in had low trans pressure? Any sugesstions?

  11. #11sheepfoot2015-02-07 23:03

    Matt your on the right track, I would now remove the pto cap if it's on the rear and place a dial indicator on the end of the shaft and record the shaft end play. Remove the small housing that the lines are hooked to after removing the bolts and copper washers, use two small pry bars to pull it away from the rear cover and slide it off. Note there will be a shim pack under it, this is why you needed to check end play on the shaft, try to save the shims if you can. Once the housing is off the shaft, you will see three seal rings on the shaft. The rings have a locking grove and should be a complete circle, look inside the housing removed for heavy worn groves also. The hoses connect to the housing, the seal rings seal inside the housings, and the fluid/oil pressure is run threw the shaft to each clutch pack when shifted from high or low. The reason I asked you to switch hoses was to see if it was a seal ring, shaft, clutch pack issue which is confirmed now. Lets hope it's a seal ring issue!. After you pull that small housing and inspect the bore and rings we will give you more info on where to go and how to do it. PS saw your PM but thought this would help some others.

  12. #12Matt Meeks2015-02-09 17:13

    Sheepfoot, what will be my indication that the 3 ring seal are bad or that they are my problem when I inspect them?