I have a dozer with a 4 yard bucket on the front and a backhoe attachment on the back. It's a little confusing because the tag says D1150 [Not 1150D] but the S/N is 7300099 which would put it in the straight 1150 block [No letter after] of 1970 ??? Anyway, I would like to know what to fix on this thing. Symptoms... Ever since I got it, if you fire it up and try to go right away it will go but then it gives up after a minute and you have to let it warm up for 20 min [longer if daily avg temp is colder, such as 40degF] Recently it gotten a lot worse making it unusable. TC pressure is about 45psi and trans is about 250. You run it at high idle and when you see the shave between the engine and TC spin fast you know you are ready to try. When you put it in F or R the shaft slows but when it then starts spinning fast you can put it in H or L and try to get grip, it tries but then gives up and tries again. If you let it spin fast in neutral for a minute it tries better but eventually it gives up. That a long story just to get to the point that the energy is not being delivered through the torque converter. The Trans itself is working perfect. Is it a TC that is going out or better yet some screen or valve that is not working right? I heard about a TC pressure regulator that lead to the fluid cooler at the radiator. Could there be a problem with the regulator sticking? What kind of fluids does this take for the TC and Trans? I wouldn't know where to check the TC fluid? I do see a dipstick next to a pipe cap under the seat. Could it just be low on fluid? I know this is an old thread, I'm just desperate to get this going, I am a senior retired mechanic on a fixed income living at 4,000 ft elevation and am snowed in and need it to plow the road so I can get out. Any help would be much appreciated, a service manual would be a real lot of help too. [I saw some on line for hundreds of dollars and don't even know if they apply to my model,]
Hey DrHarryT the breather cap under the seat has the dipstick attached to it. Use a good hydraulic oil for the transmission. Good luck with this old machine. And by the way the serial number plate D1150 means it has a diesel engine.
That makes sense. Did they actually put a gas engine in some versions? Yes, I did see the dipstick next to the pipe fill cap. That is how I knew without the engine running nothing registers on the dipstick, dry as a bone. Normally the fluid level will drop when the engine is started, [at least on automobile trans, this is the same principal] so that means it is really dry. Tomorrow morning, I am going to run into town and pick up a filter "NAPA 1786" and couple of buckets of this... https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...0a-plus-utility-tractor-fluid-5-gal-vp2040114 This actually the same stuff I have been putting into the hydraulic system tank, the backhoe attachment has some leaky rams. Curious, does the trans charge pump also provide pressure for the T/C? I've looked at parts list pictures and it looks like the trans pump is at about 4:00 on the T/C bell housing and there is another flange at about the 11:00 position which I think is where the hydraulic system pump goes, unless that is for the T/C pump and then there is a PTO somewhere else for the hyd. system. I am a retired ASE certified automotive diagnostic technician and I have to tell you this thing is really a pain in the neck to work on and is so encased in steel, it is difficult to see anything. I hope the J20A fluid is acceptable because on a fixed income the price is probably better than anything else I would be able to get. Thanks, Harry
You would be best served by replacing the suction hoses and clamps. They are famous for air leak intrusion over time. You will usually get weak and erratic pressure reading on your gauges when this happens.
I suspect you are referring to the trans charge pump hoses? It wouldn't surprise me since they probably haven't been touched since it was made 52 years ago. I would have to pull the floor plates to get at those. I also suspect those hoses lead to the trans filter canister under the left hand side of the seat.
The parts book is a big help. https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/c...56875BD6/FCC96496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6
In videos I've seen part #8 the horizontal filter which looks like it would be under the seat on the left side but don't see it anywhere on mine, I was thinking mine has part #24 instead which is a vertical assembly.
Apparently there are two threads running rampant here. You should have both. The horizontal filter is the suction screen I was referring to on that other thread. I've never been under a straight 1150, but I know for a fact that the 1150C, D, E, and G have it underneath, about halfway between the T/C and the trans. These machines are leaking bast@rds too. About 39 hydraulic lines running every which way, plus all these stupid hoses held by hose clamps. Great machines in their time, but basketcases later in life.
If this is the other thread you are referring to... Case 1150 Track Loader (will not move) | Heavy Equipment Forums HeavyEquipmentForums That is a thread that I hijacked to get info and then decided to create my own thread. [this thread] Sorry for the confusion. Just got back getting the filter and fluid, in the morning I will apply those materials and let you know what happens. [I really hope it has a happy ending]
I mentioned this in the backhoe thread. Once you verify the oil is full, pick the tracks up off the ground with the loader and hoe and slowly engage the trans. in forward and reverse to let the trans. warm up. I do this with my Cat track loader with hoe when it's cold. It doesn't have to be that cold for it to not want to move easily and I don't like having to go full throttle to get it to move initially. Once driven it warms up pretty quick and will start to move at about 1/4 to 1/3 throttle. The weight of the hoe adds a lot of friction to get it moving.
You just have to start it up and let is run for a while. All the heat is generated in the T/C, the trans itself generates an insignificant amount of heat. just the friction of the bearings and gears. So just putting it into gear at an idle or just above will make it warm up fast because of the load put on the T/C.
Well guys, I dumped 5 gal into the trans and a filter which brought it to 1/2 inch under the full line with the engine running. At first I thought that it was no help but after 30min running the T/C grabbed in and didn't stop, the beast is ready to push down pine trees stump and all. Got the snow plowed off my road and driveway, this thing is brutal and not meant for delicate work. It's back to it's normal. Ever since I got it you had to warm it up for 15-30 min [depending on the daily outside temp] before it would go but once it grabbed it worked perfectly. The manual will be coming so that should help in the future. Thanks for your help.
Lifting it up in cold weather helps free everything up so it will move easier. It makes a big difference on my track loader. There's a lot of friction to overcome when things are frozen.
I can understand that with the tracks and associated idler wheels, Ot's like warming up the tracks at the same time.
I hear this but wish to confirm that it is normal for a Case such as mine needs to warm up before it will move? If not, what are the possible reasons?
I don't know of any vehicle with a transmission that relies on oil that isn't slower to move when it's cold. On mine I don't like having to rev it close to full throttle to get it to move. Picking the tracks up and getting things moving just seems like it's a lot easier on the trans. and entire drive train. It's simple to do so why not. It's common on excavators to pick up each side to free it from being frozen to the ground and get the tracks moving. Everything is stiff when it's cold and worse the colder it is. That applies to oil too. Synthetic or lower viscosity helps but it's still affected by cold.