Hi everybody! Are there any CASE mechanics out there? I have an 1150 track loader that will not move. Parked it there a few months ago now I do not see any pressure or any kind of attempt for movement forward or reverse. Hydraulics work fine, oil levels are fine. Could it be cold weather related? When I used it last I noticed that it did not like to push very heavy piles of dirt, just seemed a bit weak. Where to start? This is my first time with a CASE and I am not familiar with how the drive line works. Does anyone have a manual for this 1150? SN 1502111 Thank you kindly!
Start with the suction screen and clamps to the charge pump. After that you will need to check the orfice in the control valve under the battery tray, it has a fitting in the top center that is turned up, the line goes to the pressure gauge on the dash, remove the fitting in the valve, their is a orfice screen in the hole, remove and clean, retry. next in the center of that same valve where the linkages hook to, the big valve in the center is the modulation valve, their is a screw with a locknut above it, once removed their is a orfice in there, take a flat tipped screw driver and back it out, when out check the hole to see if it has trash in it, it's real small so it does not take much to plug it. Check the rod to the mod vavle for sticking while there also. You said the hyd works so we need to get some pressure to the gauge, suction tube,strainer, pump oring nuts, clamps, filter, control valve, orfice screen,orfice,mod valve,valve gaskets. Ps take a good look at the brake pedal linkage along with the mod linkage. Need to be carefull!, alot ofwork will be done with the floor boards out, seat assembly,battery box, it can take off with you if the right problem is found and you don't expect it.
Hello, many thanks for the advice. So here is the update... I pulled out the strainer that is just under the floor cover on the left side. It had almost half an inch of ice laying in the bottom of it plus a fair amount of small metal particles. Cleaned it up, tried the machine, no luck. Figured there might be a little water in the oil clogging up the suction inside the tank, put a heater under the oil tank for a few hours and tried again. Got torque converter pressure build up almost right away, it went to maximum on the gauge, then something blew up and lost all the oil. The leak looks like it is around the underside of the small pump. 1. What is the pump that is just to the lower left side of the drive shaft? 2. What oil can I use to replace this oil used for the torque converter? 3. Would anyone have a manual on a PDF, even of a similar CASE machine? I'm desperate on this one!! Many thanks in advance
979, The large pump is the main hyd pump, the lower pump is the trans charge pump, some converters have a converter releif/pressure regulator mounted in that area also. It may have cracked the pump or blown a hose/oring. I have seen ice take out a pump before and blow a hose/oring along with it. The trans can use a good trans/converter/hyd oil from a local source will do. Can you recheck the s/n on that machine or maybe a pic to help find you some info.
7301728 is the other SN on the machine, to the left side of the seat, front of the battery box. Having trouble to attach due to the size of the pics. Will try again later!! Thank you
The machine s/n is the 7301728, Need to ask you one more question, the lift cylinders for your loader, is the rod end down or up when loader is raised. They should be down since you said the battery box is on the left behind the s/n tag. You are between the last group of 1150's built s/n 7300001 and after, then 1150B series came out. This will change what i told you in checking the control valve due to it haveing a differant trans in it. You will still have to remove the belly pan's under the machine between the rear engine and front of the trans. The fluided needs to be drained and strainer screen cleaned to try and remove water and milkshake oil in it, also will give you a better look at the possible leaking area. The control valve / trans will be more of the older terratrac than the 1150B. The trans pressure gauge should be 260-290 psi when warm.
I have service manual. Full model you loader 1150 B, C, D, E, G, H, K ????
Good morning Gentlemen.
Well the pictures worked this time. Sheep, as you can see lift cylinders have rod end down. So my update today... Got the belly pan off and cleaned it out. I see the forward end drive shaft seal is leaking all the oil. So, to replace that may not be too bad of a job but would you have any idea why it would have gave up in the first place because it seemed to have some pressure behind it? Is that possible? Otherwise it is the oil change... would you be able to tell me where the strainers are that I need to clean? Riland: The loader is the original 1150 model, as I learned from the above posting. Again and again, thank you kindly guys
Your passenger side tracks are on backwards.
good eye! would it have been installed like that for any reason or would it be in my better interest to change it around?
979, did you have any luck with your seal, suction screen check and fluid adding?.
All I did was move the machine a few feet. It seems like there was back pressure to blow the seal when it was very cold, if that is possible. So I will just replace it first along with new oil and try again when the weather is above freezing. Trying to locate part numbers is difficult so I will have to remove the seal first to try and match it up. However, I have to go away for over a month, will chime in here again when I get working on it. Really appreciate the assistance guys.
Hi guys, back again. Trying to remove the drive shaft today but it does not slide on the spline. Unless I am missing something or else it is seized up and maybe needs heat? I hope it is possible to get the drive shaft out and be able to replace that forward end seal that blew out.
Did you ever figure out how to get thedriveshaft off ,? Im stuck in the same place you were.
I have a dozer with a 4 yard bucket on the front and a backhoe attachment on the back. It's a little confusing because the tag says D1150 [Not 1150D] but the S/N is 7300099 which would put it in the straight 1150 block [No letter after] of 1970 ??? Anyway, I would like to know what to fix on this thing. Symptoms... Ever since I got it, if you fire it up and try to go right away it will go but then it gives up after a minute and you have to let it warm up for 20 min [longer if daily avg temp is colder, such as 40degF] Recently it gotten a lot worse making it unusable. TC pressure is about 45psi and trans is about 250. You run it at high idle and when you see the shave between the engine and TC spin fast you know you are ready to try. When you put it in F or R the shaft slows but when it then starts spinning fast you can put it in H or L and try to get grip, it tries but then gives up and tries again. If you let it spin fast in neutral for a minute it tries better but eventually it gives up. That a long story just to get to the point that the energy is not being delivered through the torque converter. The Trans itself is working perfect. Is it a TC that is going out or better yet some screen or valve that is not working right? I heard about a TC pressure regulator that lead to the fluid cooler at the radiator. Could there be a problem with the regulator sticking? What kind of fluids does this take for the TC and Trans? I wouldn't know where to check the TC fluid? I do see a dipstick next to a pipe cap under the seat. Could it just be low on fluid? I know this is an old thread, I'm just desperate to get this going, I am a senior retired mechanic on a fixed income living at 4,000 ft elevation and am snowed in and need it to plow the road so I can get out. Any help would be much appreciated, a service manual would be a real lot of help too. [I saw some on line for hundreds of dollars and don't even know if they apply to my model,]
Have you changed the transmission filter since the problem started ?? I don't know if this manual on eBay is any good. Usually when a service manual has about 1000 pages or more it is a complete replica of the original. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2935681660...JI29D+NY1TQjzol3Hx8YaQzHIZ|tkp:Bk9SR4yTycOhYQ
No, I don't even know where it is. Through videos I've learned there is a canister screen under the seat on the left side. I was going to pull the seat and check that for sledge. I was thinking, ever since I got it 5 years ago, if you fire it up, it will go but then stops and you have to wait 10-15 in the summer and 20-30 min in the winter. Yesterday I learned that if I shut it off for a minute, start it back up, it will try to go a little and then quit again, [Trans if fine, it's the TC not grabbing up.] I also heard that hose clamps can leak sucking air in, when combined with a plugged screen makes if suck more air and when it's colder the fluid does not want to pull the screen more. So, I'm thinking it's a combination of plugged screen with leaking hose clamps from time and shrinkage. Fluid doesn't want to come out of the leak point but air wants to suck in easier. This is under the premise that it is a suction line. That's why shutting it off gives time for the air bubbles to dissipate and then it works for a moment when you start it back up till enough air gets back into the fluid. Before the warming it up would cause the rubber to expand sealing the air suction leak??? Thanks for the link, that never p[opped up in all my searching for information.
I'm still in the process of getting the canister top off, it is vertical positioned, the one I saw was mounter horizontal, maybe another year model. The amin thing presenting itself is I checked the dipstick without it running and the stick comes out dry. Usually if the engine is not running the trans level will read higher and least on an automobile, you must start the engine so the level drops and can then get an accurate reading. Does the trans and TC share the same fluid like in a car? What kind of fluid does it take? I saw someone in a video dumping "Tractor Hydraulic & Transmission fluid" into the trans. It looks like a pipe cap next to the dipstick where it was added. Still the trans pressure needle is flickering at 250psi and the TC pressure is just under 50psi. A couple of times I did see the pressures drop, TC to 12.5psi and Trans to 75psi but the Trans came back up all the sudden and the TC took a little while but came back up. When pressures are up the TC is not grabbing properly comes and goes. [mostly goes] I believe I need to get the canister foo and see if it needs to be cleaned or if I can replace the element and then add fluid. I just want to be sure I am adding the right fluid. Yes, when I add fluid, I will have the engine running and bring it to the full line.
I think you need a new T/C.
I hope not, if so the tractor is not getting fixed anytime soon. I saw one [if it's the right one] for $3,200 + $1,000 core. by the time you add Tax + Shipping looking at $5,000 to get the part in my hands. I got the canister top off and its an element style NAPA 1786 and like I said earlier the fluid is not registering on the dipstick with the engine off. Let's hope changing the filter and topping off the fluid brings it back to life. However it does not look good to me with the TC and Trans both having pressure unless it's air sucking cavitation causing it to not grip. Remember the Trans pressure needle does bounce a bit. [It flickers up and down +25psi to -25psi over the 250psi line, it flickers more if you rev it.]
Don't get too excited about the gauges--try changing the filter and top up the oil. Your gauges flickering may just mean that the pump is just barely getting a gulp of oil and then sucking air. Besides, adding the oil will also show up any leaks that may need to be fixed. Deal with the obvious first. Jon.
That's what I figured "Deal with the obvious first." I ordered the manual which should help if not for the future. I read some earlier posts that talked about suction screen and orifices t the charge pump and there is a torque converter relief valve. The filter will be in tomorrow morning and I'm getting J20A tractor fluid that's designed for older tractors hydraulic systems, transmissions and final drives. It shows a bunch of Case fluid part numbers but I don't know what number is specific to the 1150? It's the same fluid I have been adding to the hydraulic tank with all the leaks this old beast has. We'll see what happens tomorrow, keeping finger crossed. Thanks, Harry
Case TCH fluid or it's equivalent is what it takes. There are quite a few cheaper alternatives to the TCH. If you are using it in freezing temperatures an AW32 would be a good choice. It is a SAE10W. Tractor supply has a 10W-30 that I would use. Travelers Premium.
The only thing I could find was "Travelers" [no "premium"] and it is 10W-30W motor oil. This is what I was going to use... https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...0a-plus-utility-tractor-fluid-5-gal-vp2040114
That is an SAE 20W oil and I don't know a thing about it. I looked the TSC website and it is showing the Premium 10W-30 oil I was familiar with. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-premium-tractor-hydraulic-fluid-5-gal-t806391
I saw the email said "not showing" nand then I looked at the actual post and it said "is showing" with a link... LOL So you think I should use the "traveller-premium" and not the "J20A Ultra"????
For some reason TSC's website search box would not reveal the 10W-30. I edited the post because I used a search engine, and found the TSC 10W-30. The 20W oil is probably ok as long as the air temperature doesn't get too cold. My personal preference is a 10W or 10W-30, because I live in area that routinely has temperatures as low as 0° F.
My temperatures here at 4,000ft on the lava mountain can get as low as into the teens, however I typically use it in the winter to push snow when the temps are in the low 30's-40's. I noticed that the Travelers Premium has a much broader temperature range [and is $5 cheaper ], The T/C temp gauge gives colors and not any numbers. [I'm suspecting the T/C uses the common sump fluid of the trans. The trans itself does not generate any significant heat, but the T/C does and I saw a photo where the output of the T/C goes to a cooler at the radiator and then looks like back to the common sump in the trans thus adding heat to the trans minus what the cooler takes out. My consideration is to use the fluid that will give proper lubrication, pressure and not damage anything like deteriorate the clutch packs. Normally clutch packs don't slip if they are in good condition, They just clamp to deliver energy in the desired direction internally, which mine clamp great.
Not really sure you can make that claim until you resolve the T/C issue.
Actually I can. When the T/C is delivering energy to the shaft having F/R engaged and then choose H or L the shaft instantly stops and the tractor does a jerk forward, any small rotation of the shaft causes the tracks to move indicating an absolute positive link of the energy from the shaft to the tracks. Recap... I can have the range in high or low and then choose forward or reverse and the shaft stops. I can have the direction in forward or reverse and then choose high or low and the shaft stops, both ways instantly with a jerk in the tracks. Of course, i do this at an idle because there is no way i am going to slam the drivetrain. You must also always come to a complete stop when shifting from forward to reverse or visa versa. All directions/mode work with no slippage of the clutches. Edit: I should add that I can look down through the floor plates and see the shaft while sitting in the seat while working the controls.
Until you are able to spin the tracks in dry dirt, you have absolutely no idea that your trans is good, and possibly not even then.
The other day I did plow a bunch of snow [3' deep] with it down to the dirt. Yesterday I planted the bucket and spun the tracks. When the T/C grips, I can push 18" trees down. The nature of a T/C is that if it is full of solid fluid. it is going to work. The only way it won't work is if bearings are bad throwing the turbine plates out of alignment causing gaps where the fluid can escape internally. I am a 40 year ASE certified diagnostic technician in automotive repairs. I've been repairing electro/mechanical devices for the same. Electronics and appliances. I can fix just about anything except my marriage The "Dr" in my name is a reference to physics/science. I have been doing this for a long time and have keen analytical/diagnostic skills understanding not only how things work but why they work. This equipment like cars are like women, they may look different but they are basically the same. The problem with this is that I have never dealt with this kind of equipment and it is extremely difficult to work on and Analize. That is why I came here to harness people with experience and knowledge I don't have. The key to wisdom is knowing there will ALWAYS be more to learn. Theat is why I have ordered a service manual for this equipment and am limited to current freezing conditions and physical deficiencies to tear this thing down, work on it and analyze how it works. In order to repairs something you must first know how it works to be in a position to understand why it is not working. I'm rally good at what I do. What is that/... Whatever I put my mind to. I can fix this, it's just a matter of money. I can scrape up a few hundred bucks but not $5,000 for a new T/C. I saw a "Rotating Group Kit" for the T/C for about $300 but I would have to wait till summer to pull out the t/C and rebuild it myself. [While not a trans man, I have rebuilt a couple of trans in my day and amazingly when I was done they worked.] In this current case with my ability to analyze has confirmed that the transmission is in perfect working order albeit really low on fluid. If the shaft spins and you put it into gear the shaft slams to a stop. If the T/C is gripping the tracks spin synonymous with the shaft, if the shaft stops the tracks stop. The first thing I have learned from here from kind people is to firat change the filter, get the fluid level right and ensure the trans charge pump suction hoses are tight and not sucking air. Please let me get to the 80-mile drive to town so I can get the materials back and see if it works. I am going with the "Travelers Premimun" from Tractor supply Co. Thanks, Harry
I'm sorry, after reading back, I must have skipped over the part where you did say it might be low on oil. Low oil level will absolutely make it act like you describe. I spent thousands of hours on an 1150C, and I now own an 1150G. Virtually the same machines, except for the engine. If you haven't pulled the suction screen underneath, I'd start there. Since it's low on fluid, you may as well drain the rest out, you'll need to anyway to remove that screen.
The problem with that right now is it freezing outside and sitting in 3 feet of snow, so getting under it is out of the question right now. I don't know where the "suction screen" is you're talking about. If I could dig the snow out to get underneath, would I have to remove the 500lb skid plate to get at the suction screen? I have ordered a service manual for it which should open doors of information for me. I'm going to get the fluid and filter today, it will be dark by the time I get back so I will have to implement those items tomorrow. Thanks, I appreciate all the information.
Well guys, I dumped 5 gal into the trans and a filter which brought it to 1/2 inch under the full line with the engine running. At first I thought that it was no help but after 30min running the T/C grabbed in and didn't stop, the beast is ready to push down pine trees stump and all. Got the snow plowed off my road and driveway, this thing is brutal and not meant for delicate work. It's back to it's normal. Ever since I got it you had to warm it up for 15-30 min [depending on the daily outside temp] before it would go but once it grabbed it worked perfectly. The manual will be coming so that should help in the future. Thanks for your help.
Don't underestimate the power of fresh oil of the right type at the height! A side note: I slid sideways on ice plowing snow with the 977K. Stuck it sideways in some smallish trees over the shoulder of the road tilted say 45 deg. with the ground being level at the bottom of the short bank. Had a tree between the bucket and the tracks. Wrestled back and forth to get out then the trans stopped pushing. Should of hiked up to the house for the chain saw to start with. Got the chain saw and 5 gallons of 30W oil chopped the tree overfilled the trans. Drove it up and out. Oil may have been low I don't think it was much. Note to self: if your stuck don't screw around and make it harder for yourself. Good to hear your up and running!!!
Usually best to just stop everything at the 1st sign you could be stuck but I think most people figure they can get unstuck themselves only to make things worse.