My buddys 1825 diesel get weak as the oil warm up. problem affects the drives on both sides, when pushing to fill the bucket the sticks shake and the charge pressure lite comes on, has a new filter. Does anyone know where the valve that regulates the chrage pressure is on these and any idea what it should be pressure wise? Looking for a downloadable manual, has anyyone seen one for this model? Any idea if it shares components with other models? Ken
I've seen 2 1825's in my time. They were pretty uncommon. Most had 1840 or 1845's. The one thing I do know about the pumps on the 1825 was that the pressure reliefs were a poppet type and they seated directly to the pump body. After a while they would get grooved. Typical symptom was after they got warmed up they had no forward drive power. Problem was you could get new poppets but you had to have the seat "honed / refaced" at a good hydraulic pump repair shop. There are 2 poppets in each of the tandem pumps front and rear. 2 for forward and 2 for reverse. Take them out and look at them. See if one looks grooved (most likely the forward one) Try swapping them, sometimes the forward poppets are more worn than the reverse. See if that makes a bit of a difference. I will try to get you a spec on pressures tomorrow and post again.
hey graham, I was waiting on you to jump in here. I know nothing about the 1825. The poppet reliefs is interesting, I hope that solves his problem. I have seen what you have described before on an Ingersoll ZX125 excavator. It uses a lame "pressure regulating valve" that is not much different than a poppet relief setup. I took the valve apart, the poppet was in good shape as it was steel. But the valve body that it seated into was aluminum, and the oil stream made a right angle at the poppet. It seemed that turbulence erroded the aluminum seat. I worked on that thing for an hour with valve grinding compound getting that groove out of the seat to make the machine work correctly.
I have to check and see if the problem is in reverse as well, or if reverse is good. (Chain to something and see if it will spin going backwards. He said it will hardly turn when its warmed up. You would think the side you are reversing would be stronger then the one going forward in a turn situation. Presently both forward drives are equally weak according to what he tells me.
Charge pressure is steady at 158 lbs, but as it warms to 120f the drives begin to get weak to where it won't spin, foward or back, either side. While trying to make it spin, the charge pressure fades to nothing the more steering stick you give it. It still pulls the motor down pretty good, probably making 60 ~ 70% of the pressure it should. Only 1200 hours on a working factory hour meter too. Any idea what pressure this hydrosatat should be cable of? If I get some pics of the hydrostat could you piont out which are the reliefs, or would you have a exploaded parts diagram for this? Ken
OK here's the specs you wanted. To check charge pressure get machine hot. Remove the charge pressure switch or if there is a plug at the filter remove it instead. Both should be 1/8" pipe. Install a 500psi gauge. Run machine full throttle you should have 150psi charge pressure. If not check the charge relief, on the older models it is on the LH side(sitting in the seat) the newer ones is in the bottom of the pump. see attached diagrams. Shim the relief and see if it brings the pressure up. Recheck pressure. Now keeping the park latches engaged and the engine at full throttle push the levers forward slightly until you just start to hear the engine speed change. Minimum pressure at this slight load should be 100psi. Anything lower you may have pump problems. If this charge pressure is good you need to check the hydrostatic relief pressure. use a 5000 psi gauge and tee into the drive hoses. Pressure is 3150-3250psi. These are the reliefs I have seen the most problems with.
According to diagram I have the newer one. Would you happen to have a schematic for the hydraulics? I can't quite wrap my head around how the oil gets from the reservoir into the hydro system. In cold weather the unit was having trouble picking up the oil and often it would take 5 to 10 minutes of idling for the warning to shut off. Seem to be alot better now that its above freezing. Oil filter was pretty clean inside too. The charge and hydraulic pump are still factory colors so there were not changed when the the hydro was rebuilt last. Because of the loss of charge pressure when pushing and the trouble getting charge on cold days, I'm still leaning towards a problem with the pump, or some improper routing of the hoses? Where does the charge pump get its oil the tank?? I picked up a flow meter and plan on flowing the left and right hydro to see what volume it pumps and at what psi. Ken
Flow tested the charge pump tonight, it puts out a steady 6 or so gpm at wot. Took it up to 800 psi and 130 degrees F, and the flow stayed steady, so that pump seems good. Try the hydrostats tomorrow, I guess.:Banghead Ken
If you do the pressure test for the charge pump it will pretty much point you to a bad pump. Just running.... the charge pressure may be fine, now slightly stroke the levers. If the piston pumps are worn/damaged the charge pressure will drop off. You can flow meter if you want but if your charge pressure goes south pretty much points to the pumps. The charge pump may be fine. Like I had mentioned the usual suspect is the poppet style relief valves. I have done what ATCO described and used lapping compound to repair the seat in the pump. Use a pressure gauge and see what your pressures are.
Hi Guys, not sure if you blokes can help but i have an old case 1825 that is slower on the right side. the left side works well but the right seems to grone when the stick is pushed forward all the way. It seems to be fine in reverse??? Do I need a new drive motor? or can I ajust it?? Any help would be great. Deano Australia.
Well we had our 1st frost last night and if you start this machine it has charge pressure, but if you attempt to move it the pressure drops below 30 and the alarm comes on. Then it takes 3 or 4 minutes of sitting there for it to recover. Leave it sit there the pressure stay up. I revoved the suction line from the reservoir to the pump to looked for a blocked strainer, but there is none. The oil that is in there is 10/30. Should not be having flow problems at these temps? I see a sticker on it saying they want a 10 min warm up at 32 far temps. So is it normal for them to take that long to pump the oil well? Still have not got anywhere with the original problem if there is one. It seems to push pretty hard once it warms up but does not spin the tires easily. Will just spin them forward or back about the same. Did these machines have a easy time spinning in gravel when new? Not really sure if it is weak or thats just how they are? Ken
hello, I need help with house charger, 1825, I need information for a more accurate hydraulic pump with the pump shaft sprocket chain where can I buy something, or possibly a faulty hydraulic pump shaft, but good.thank you.