Ok.....I have the TMD20 motor rebuilt and in the skid steer. I have put in ne fuel filter, fresh fuel, new fuel lines. I pulled the drain plug out of the fuel filter that is on the top/side, got fuel there. Tightened it back up. Cracked line loose before the injection pump, got fuel there. Tightened that back up. Now......I cracked the line loose at the injection pump that runs up to the injector, NO fuel. I did all this just off of the electric fuel pump. After I realized I didn't have any fuel coming out of the injection pump with just the electric fuel pump, I put in a fresh battery and started cranking on it. Still no fuel. Now I must tell you that he wiring is a bit sketchy. But the only wire that has anything to do with the fuel system is the 2 wires that run from the fuel pump. On is the ground and the other bolts to the top of the injection pump for the fuel shut-off. Right? Now, for there to be power to the fuel pup I found a wire that is hot while the key on. I hooked this wire to the shut off wire so the fuel pump would could work. Is this correct? I own all the manuals for this Case 1835c Machine and there is only one wire hooked to the injection pump. So how is the electric fuel pump supposed to get power without the positive wire? Any input is greatly appreciated.
Work on the wiring harness later.. hook up the electric lift pump.. Run a jumper wire straight off the + side of the battery to the top of the inj. pump.. You SHOULD HEAR it click.. I like to use a length of wire w/ alligator clips.. THAT WAY if something goes wrong you can just hit the wire & it'll knock off.. Without the pump #'s its hard to tell IF you just need 1 hot OR a hot & a ground wire.. & IF the pump has sat around for any extended period of time?? the inards might be frozen up from old fuel..
Ok. The positive from the fuel pump is hooked to the post on top of the injection pump like the manual says. I know the electric fuel pump is working because I can hear it running when the key is on. And yea, the engine sat in the machine shop for about 8 years completely disassembled down to the bare block. All the pars were stored inside at the guys heating and air shop. He bought it and never did anything with it. I bought the machine about a month ago. All the machine work was done to the block. New head, crank is good, cam is great, and just needed put back together. I put all new bearings, rings, gaskets, and seals through out. Am I jut not cranking it long enough? I do it in spurts so I don't burn up the starter. Is it going to take a while?
It sounds like you had "most" of the important things done.. Except>> getting the injection pump & injectors check.. Dollars to doughnuts its stuck.. don't just get the pump done.. send the injectors too.. It doesnt take long at all to bleed one out if you have fuel to the pump inlet, the solenoid ON & the lines at the injectors loose.. About 5 tries & there should be fuel spurting out the lines.. I think your beatin a dead horse.. but what do I know..??
oh....Injectors were rebuilt! forgot that one. And your the injection pump master! Is there a direct line to you? If I were to send you the numbers could you tell me the pump type, so I can buy a rebuild kit? PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Can you hear the solenoid click?? IF your running it off a cobbled up harness.. run your own wire to it.. just to BE SURE & eliminate that problem.. I've seen them have power & THEN when you turn the key to crank the motor, it quits.. SO RUN A WIRE.
You said, 8 YEARS?? Lol Fuel sets up/goes stale, turns to varnish in a couple of MONTHS..
Now are you talking about running a wire from the positive battery to the pump, or directly to the injection pump?
Yes 8 years!! But i got a good buy on it . 1700 bucks! And you should of seen the diesel fuel out of the tank.....it looked like cheap vegetable oil!!!!!!
Hot wire to the injection pump..
ok. When i get to the garage this afternoon I will try it. If that don't work what would you suggest next. That way I have plenty to do this afternoon.
1 thing to check before you pull the pump AND injectors.. Remove the top cover, 3 screws, LEAVE THE LINES LOOSE/OFF at the injectors & crank the engine.. SEE if you get fuel pumping then.. [I doubt it tho] The reason to leave the lines off is> if it starts you cant shut it down w/ the top cover off.!!! SO LEAVE THE LINES OFF.. IF your going to pull the pump.. TIME THE ENGINE FIRST.!!!! Pull the little side cover window on the pump.. theres 2 lines in there.. 1 is stationary & 1 rotates.. Rotate the engine until BOTH LINES MATCH & STOP.. Pull the pump..
Ok pumpmaster. I pulles the cover off the top and there is fuel in there (goog fuel). I pulles the little fittings off the top and there is a glass check ball that wasnt moving. So I cleaned all that up. Now I'm putting the cover back on and trying to figure out the shut off solenoid. Ill keep ya posted.
Ok. I have fuel up there. Should the electric pump be able to push fuel out the injector lines or do I need to be cranking on it? The pump is a DB2 4627. Thanks for the help by the way!!!
Take the fitting w/ the glass ball completely out.. the fuel will flow out so be prepared for a mess or catch it. The engine needs to be cranking to get fuel to pump out of the lines.. The elect. lift pump WILL NOT pump it out the lines.. Crank that sucker..