HI, I have recently picked up a Case 1835C with Continental TMD-20 Diesel Engine Engine seens to run good, with no problems. My question is does any body have this same engine that is still running and have good luck with it. From what I have read on the internet that no body seems to likes this engine. I wonder why.
The people that I have talked to seem to love the Perkins 3/152 Diesel. So I made a little Comparison and got the information the best I could. Give me your take.
How about if I ask the question differently ..... What is your favorite small diesel engine and why is it your favorite?
Well if you are going to put it that way! A 3-53 Detroit Why? Can't beat the sound of a 2-stroke Detroit at full song! As for the TMD-20. Well were I worked they had and I assume still do have a couple Lincoln welders with the four cylinder version of that one. I'd have to do some digging to see what if any problems we had with those. But sitting there at a steady speed and pretty steady load running a welder might be total different than the skid-steer. If anything I might think finding parts for the Conti might be a little harder than the Perky.
The Detroit 3-53 is a killer engine ..... I wish that was in my skid steer....
The AD3-152 Perkins is arguably the best diesel engine in it's HP range.
I agree,, the Perkins rates real high from talking to different people.... I wish that motor was in my skid steer in stead of the Continental TMD-20 Diesel Engine.. But the TMD-20 seen to run real good , so I was wondering what is it's down fall ,if any. It seems to have plenty of power, I guess it's the parts that are high..
The Detroit Diesel 3-53 sounds like a neat engine , but I am confused on how the Detroit Diesel 3-53 Naturally Aspirated get air into the cylinder with out a blower of some sort. As the intake ports are open at BDC and nothing to push the air in..
Naturally aspirated means a blower only in Detroit speak.
Well got to thinking about the Conti's we had where I worked. I was wrong they were in Miller welders not Lincoln. They were a pair of TMD27 Continentals. Bought new in 1987-88. Other than normal things like belts, oil and filters and some minor leaks the only thing in my records on one was replacing glow plugs in 2006. In 2013 that one had approx. 5,000 hours on it. The other one' records show a couple bad injectors at 400 hours, injection pump rebuilt at 4,300 hours and rear seal at 4,900 hours last records for that one was normal service work in 2014 at approx 5,100 hours. I'm not mentioning things like electrical problems with welders or bad electric fuel pumps as they might be more related to it being in the welder design. So if I had a chance to pick up a good used 1835C and it had a Conti in it I would not hesitate, just keep good oil and clean fuel in it and have fun. My notes show Pitt Auto Electric 1-800-245-0711 as the Wisconsin/Continental Distributor we got parts for ours back in 2010 when I did the rear seal job. If you don't have an operators manual for your engine they have one online along with parts break down for free downloads!
Is that TMD the only Diesel that Continental built? And for like only 2-3 years back in the late '60's? I thought I heard years ago that Pistons, Rings, Bearings, and Gaskets were non-existent for the TMD series of engines. I know a guy that bought an old IR compressor with one of those in it, engine was stuck. He figured he'd just get new pistons, and smashed the old ones out of it in pieces. Then when he went for parts......none to be found anywhere at any price.
Well.....I did some googling. I'm thinking of the old G192 or GD192 Continental Diesel. Long obsolete, but also used in some farm tractors
Don't know about the one your friend had but if the web site is correct this place claims to have the parts needed and it shows as being used in the 1835C Case http://www.agkits.com/continental-m...overhaul-engine-rebuild-kit.aspx#.Wo4mwainEdU
Thanks Guys for all the help,,, kshansen ,,,,,, thank you for the information on the diesel welders. It looks like the engine will be fine, just parts are high. Even if I had to rebuild it some day , it still would be cheaper than making some kind of engine swap. Here is a picture of it ,,,, now that the engine is ok, I just need a few other parts....
Not Really ,,,, ,, It's a little better than that... It all works just needs to be cleaned up and serviced real good...and could be painted some... Here is a couple of pictures of it when I picked it up at the guys house......
The bucket looks a little large for is,, The bucket is 6 foot wide. And something was cut off on the sides..
Could be a snow bucket.
You Guys are Great, Thanks for all your help and info...... I have a quick question I would like to change all the hyd. fluid in the skid steer. The Case 1835C shows it hold 42qts total, the tank and filter hold 25qts. I have a new filter and enough fluid to change all of it. What is the best way to go about it?
there should be a drain plug on the bottom of the hydraulic tank. Might look like there are two one a bit forward from the other. The front one would be the drain for the chain compartment. Sometimes the plugs get beat up if operator was in the habit of backing over things. Most of the time you can clean them out and drive a 1/2 drive extension in and back them out.
Thanks for the info,, I was wondering how a person could change out all the hyd. fluid and new filter. So you can start out with all new fluids..is this possible??
Not really sure what the question is, yes changing the hydraulic oil is as easy as remove plug and catch it in a tub of some kind. Not sure on this 1835 but most of the 1845's have a spin-on hydraulic filter near the back in the engine compartment over to the right side. Screw the old one off and spin the new one on. Usually a sight gauge of some kind on the engine side of the hydraulic tank. Fill to the full mark then start and let run a few seconds and shut down and recheck and add as needed. Check again after running and moving bucket and boom a bit to work out any air. I would strongly suggest getting an owners manual for the machine as Case does a pretty good job of explaining what needs doing and how to do it.! I see several online for around $20.00
Sorry, I didn't explain my self very good. I found the drain plug on the bottom of the skid loader in the back , I cleaned out the plug socket and can now get a wrench in there and take it out . but I see on line that the total hyd. fluid on the 1835c loader holds 42Qts. If I pull the drain plug and drain the tank and change the filter they say it holds only 25 Qts. I was wondering, or how can I replace the rest of the 17qts so it will be all new fluid and not be mixed with any of the old fluid. So it would all be new fluid . But may by that is not possible. The remainder fluid that is in the lifting arm cylinders, bucket cylinders, drive motors, ect.
I literally just got done rebuilding mine 2 days ago. Its been sitting for 8 years. So far so good. Super cheap and easy to rebuild.
Hey Kshansen, I did buy and owners manual for the Case 1835C . and looked it up on changing the hyd fluid . It showed to change the fluid every 1000 hours of run time. and it just shows to drain the tank and putting a new filter and put in 25qts of fluid. But they don't get all of fluid (42qts it holds total).. But I guess it don't matter. I just thought it would be nice to replace all of it at one time.. By the way thanks for all your help....
Redman1 that's Great, keep me up to date on how it runs,, is your engine TMD20 diesel, where did you buy your parts. I was just looking at a rebuild parts kit and they look to be high to me. I saw an in frame over $900 and out of frame over $1000 just for parts. Maybe I am just a tight wad...
Do you have an email, this may get lengthy? I seen all those high dollar kits at first, then I found some small mom and pops shops that had stuff dirt cheap. Trust me when I tell ya I spent many many many hours researching.
Redman1, My email: [email protected] Thanks.
Well the only way one could change "all the oil at once" would be to completely disassemble the machine! Remove hoses, pumps, valves and hydraulic cylinders. Are those figures what it shows in your manual? I don't have an 1835C manual but the 1845 manual shows 52 quarts for "Oil change" and 62 quarts for "Total system". Hard to believe that an 1835C is that much different than a 1845 in oil capacity, but could be!
yes, I got the number out of the manual. 62qts is a lot of fluid . here is a snap shop.
Well,,,,,,I changed the hyd. fluid ,,, I did not remove the filler cap ,,, thinking that the fluid would come out slower because air would not come in..,, But that was a big Mistake ,,,, it had pressure on it.... I was swimming in hyd. oil, my glasses were covered with oil I could not see any thing,, my hair was cover with oil like back in the fifty ,,I felt like Fonzie.. My body was well lubricated , I will never have chapped skin again.. lesson well learned... I felt like one of those girl in oil wrestling tournament....
Steve we really did not need that visual! I see the book does say 24 change and 42 complete system, make me wonder what the difference in the two systems, 1835C compared to 1845, are to make that much difference. Unless it is a typo! I'll be interested to know how much you use when you refill your machine when you get back from the car wash for a bath!
After taking a long shower I finally got clean again, It took awhile to get the hyd. oil taste out of my mouth.... But now I have all the oil changed and new filter on engine and replaced the hyd. oil and filter. I put in a total of 7 1/2 gallons of hyd. fluid that is 30 qts total.. The system says it hold 42 qts total , so I got all of it except for 12 qts that is 3 gallons.... I cut open both filters hyd. and engine filter, to look for any metal filings or broken parts , I even used a magnet looking for metal. Both were clean , Very Happy..... I started engine and cycled every thing to make sure all the air was out . everything worked good... The engine run real rough on idle, looks like it wants to jump out of the machine. When you rev it up it runs smooth... the manual says it may have a dirty injector, to crack each line while it is running, the line that does not make any difference is the injector that is bad or dirty (not a good spray pattern)... I will check it out here shortly,, I am glad to here it run again... I traded for it over a month ago, drove it into the garage and started going through it ,, and this is the first time I got to here it run again....
Gargle with a good IPA will do wonders for that taste. Just don't try operating machinery after that!
well, I cracked each injector line and each one of them make a big difference in the way the engine runs. So that tell me all the injectors are working good.. I guess this three cylinder shakes at idle, runs smooth when you rev it up some. Redman1 does yours shake at idle? Might be the characteristics of a 3 cylinder. I also see I have 2 oil leaks that I need to fix, Valve cover gasket, and the oil cooler to the engine block. (the oil cooler is between the engine oil filter and engine block). while the engine was running I also pulled the oil filler cap off that also had the vent line going the the intake manifold, and very little blow by as coming out of the valve cover. I put my hand over the valve cover , and after 20 seconds I felt a little blow by pressure, so I was happy with that..seen the motor is in still pretty good shape..
On the shaking, have you taken a good look at motor mounts? Could be they are a little worn or soft from exposure to oil.
I'm not as good as kshansen but I do have a 1835c and it shakes at the slowest motor speed but most diesels do at low speed so I just move it up one notch to smooth it out and I find it starts better that way too.
Huh! when did I become some kind of "expert"? Just throwing out thoughts as they come to mind. Hope no one thinks I have all the answers, many times I have more questions than answers and often the questions will make someone answer their own question, if that makes sense!
yes I know you ask the right question for my dad did the same thing when was still here and that is how you can teach ok. I have read a lot of what you have said and it make sense to me so all I can say is THANKS
Well I have an Audels Book, they were at one time a major publisher of "How To Books" not sure they are still around. Any how this one I have is called Audel's Answers on Automobiles and the copyright date on it is 1911, so you know it's up to date! right on the cover it is embossed with this statement: "The Thought is in the Question The Information is in the Answer".