Hello again. I'm happy to say that you guys helped me a lot with your tips so far on this forum. I have a new question. On my Case 1840, I had to remove all 4 large hydraulic lines that go from the main pump to the drive units because one had a huge hole blown in it and the other 3 were well on their way. It went ok until I got to the bottom on the left(passenger) side where the lines go into the drive pump via 45 degree fittings. The other(right) side wasn't bad because the two 45 fittings were staggered and you can reach both with the wrench. However the ones on the left are one directly on top of the other, so the ONLY way I could possibly get to the bottom hydraulic line was by cutting off the angle on the top fitting and then removing it from the drive pump first. Now that I have all of the lines out, I'm ready to put the new ones in, and I've already bought them. I have to go replace that 45 degree fitting that I cut off, but my fear is that when I go to put the new one back on, it will hit the bottom one that's still in place when I go to turn it into the drive pump. I was thinking I could put a coupler of something to extend the bottom fitting out a little so I won't have to do this again, because otherwise how will I even reach the bottom line to install it if the 45 fitting right above is still in the way. I'm not sure what the best thing to do here is, and I'd like to make this trip to the store my last one. The fittings in question are circled in the diagram below. I had to cut the top one off just to reach the nut on the hydraulic line for the bottom one. I'm replacing the top fitting, but what is the best way to reattach these along with the new lines so they are nice and tight? You cannot access this machine from underneath at all. The floor plate is welded on, and the lines and those fittings are pretty close to the floor.
Those fittings are SAE straight thread oring sealed fittings. There is a jam nut that locks them in place once they are positioned correctly. Screw the nut on each fitting till it does not contact the washer between the nut and the oring. You should then be able to install them both and once they are lined up like you need them tighten the jam nut down on the washer to compress the oring.
The part that I'm having trouble dealing with is that once both fittings are on, fine, but how will I reach the bottom one to tighten the hose when the top one is directly above it, leaving me no area to get a wrench on the hose for the bottom one? Will I be able to get an extension or coupler for the bottom so it comes out further for reach?
You might have to cut/weld or heat/bend a wrench, to fit the situation. Also, have you tried double open ended angle wrenches, they are designed to get into tight spaces, and by flipping and turning, so you get the right angle, on the fitting, as you tighten... http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/322237361927?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
That is sometimes the way to go, custom made for the job! That is where Harbor Freight tools can come in handy. May only have to tighten one or two hoses so you don't always need top of the line tools for that. It would be different if you were a dealer mechanic who might have to get at the lines like that several times a month. Then you could justify the price of a Snap-On tool. Another option is a Crows foot socket. Just one example: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200012174_200012174?utm_source=google_PPC&utm_medium=Dynamic+Search+Ads+Test&utm_campaign=DSA&utm_content=_cat:hand%20tools/wrenches&mkwid=s9sKUTP7h&pcrid=81459275831&mtype=b&devicetype=c&storeId=6970&langId=-1&type=search&gclid=CPe9i-KLhs8CFYtbhgodKtkCqA But if you want say just the 1 1/2 inch size it would probably pay to do some searching on Ebay to see if someone has just that size in a Snap-On or other brand.
It's funny that you asked this question. I had to fix almost the same setup on my newer case 440 skid today. I had to have it towed to my shop ...Same two fittings with flared ends with jump flat face connectors on the other end. I had to remove everything I could to help me get room for the wrenches. I had to go and purchase more wrenches including a metric 4 way set to go along with my snap on. My fittings were stacked so I had to get the lowest one on and tight first. Then do the higher one last. Utter PIA. I had to bend my wrenches twice with a torch and I had to get a helper to help line up the 90s. And in the end a longer 1 1/4 wrench from 1970 saved the day and got the stubborn nipple out. Those designers should be kicked right in the teeth. I dont like them... a complete bunch of idiots to cheap to put on hard thick metal lines.. or fittings that are accessible.. I was seriously getting ready to pull the pumps.. All told it took me 13 hours from start to finish and my hands and arms hurt.. if I was the crying type I would have. I lost my temper 3 times and wanted to beat the machine into a 1000 pieces. They were to stupid to put in a good easy way to get to the lines. And my belly was full of dirt and oil and the fittings were in the mess. I honestly can't believe what a PIA it was and it cost me 13 hours and $450 to fix this crap. And when you start loosing the feelings in your hands from straining you can't even really tell if the new stuff is tight enough or not. I wish you better times than I had
You may be able to install the lower hose before you put the top elbow in... also if there's room, you could get an L or LL long elbow for the upper one, might make things easier to work on?
Yea sometimes the hose or fitting to leak is the first one you install when assembling a machine so that means everything has to come off to to get to it. One of my last jobs at the quarry was removing, resealing and reinstalling the control valve for the backhoe on a John Deere 710D. Actually not a bad job as I had the means to clean things very good before starting and again once all covers were off. But if just one of those fittings on the back side of that valve say near the middle was leaking it would have been a pain because you would have to start at one end of the valve block and work your way down the line to the leaking one. Then repeat your way back out. Another one was working on a Cat 350L! You would think on something that big getting at hoses and fittings would be easy, NOT! Only had to replace four hoses on top of the swivel block but not only a pain to reach they were a bit bigger than those on an 1840 Case!